I am thinkin to change ATF in my 99 camry auto. transmission. It has 100,000 miles and most of the miles are so called "freeway miles" as i drive 120 miles round trip a day in bumper to bumper traffic. My car is at point where my gear change is hard, i feel those jerks when it changes gears. I have tried lucas transmission treatment about 10,000 miles back, it worked but to my surprise, after 7,000 miles or so those jearks started again. anways, this is just a history. Can any one suggest me a good step by step method to replace my ATF. I am thinking about switching on mobil 1 synthetic ATF, should i any kind of flush before i switch? I am thinkin about flush because i have done it with my engine. I started using mobile 1 but wasn't gettin the results it would have gave me and i was almost to switch it back to normal engile oil. But I gave it a chance and i flushed my engine with gunk motor flush and filled it with mobile 1 synthetic, and voila!!!!!! gas mileage increse and smooth running of my engine is a great feelin. Please help me out with my next project. I will appreciate your help.
ATF Change
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i have the same problem. with any atf i use, after a couple thousand miles it goes bad. i was thinking of going to syntetic like you also. right now im in the proceess of auto rx in my tranny, and it is shifting smoother...i will know more when i get it drained and filled.
Buy 12 quarts of the finest ATF of your choosing and new filter-gasket if applicable.
Find a respectable dealer or shop that offers the
T-Tech or BG Transmission flushing machine service.
Give them the goodies and drive off with a tranny loaded with the good stuff. Let the ATF go to work on the inside while you fend off the crazzies on the open roads
And by the way, if you read Frank's Trans. Auto-RX site he personally recommends the T-Tech process-
Find a respectable dealer or shop that offers the
T-Tech or BG Transmission flushing machine service.
Give them the goodies and drive off with a tranny loaded with the good stuff. Let the ATF go to work on the inside while you fend off the crazzies on the open roads
And by the way, if you read Frank's Trans. Auto-RX site he personally recommends the T-Tech process-
You may wish to check your manual, but in the 2002 Camry (I have a 2002 Sienna), there are two separate ATF drain plugs--you need to drain both. One is for the tranny pan, and the other is for the differential. There is only one fill for both "reserviors," and that is the tranny dipstick tube...
Car_Junkie,
I have a '99 Camry.The Differental is at the rear of the trans,Separate from the trans in drain and refill.The drain plug faces to the rear.About 4 inches higher is a nub with 2 10mm plugs on it that is the separate fill for the Diff.Take the dr side wheel off for better access.It takes about 3/4 of a quart.I use synth in a small squirt bottle to refill.I would change the fluid and filter,then go get it flushed.Synth made a difference in my Tundra.But it only has 22k.And you might have a mechanical issue so go regular first.Hate to waste a lot of Mobil ATF$$$.ATP Gasket kits are the best,If you need a part # I can get it .There are 2 trans and I have had the wrong one and looking at them its hard to tell.
Good Luck,
Rich
I have a '99 Camry.The Differental is at the rear of the trans,Separate from the trans in drain and refill.The drain plug faces to the rear.About 4 inches higher is a nub with 2 10mm plugs on it that is the separate fill for the Diff.Take the dr side wheel off for better access.It takes about 3/4 of a quart.I use synth in a small squirt bottle to refill.I would change the fluid and filter,then go get it flushed.Synth made a difference in my Tundra.But it only has 22k.And you might have a mechanical issue so go regular first.Hate to waste a lot of Mobil ATF$$$.ATP Gasket kits are the best,If you need a part # I can get it .There are 2 trans and I have had the wrong one and looking at them its hard to tell.
Good Luck,
Rich
car
Love the name.
I've always heard to not use one of those ATF flushing machines because the services does not include a new filter and the shop will use the cheapest ATF they can buy. Sorry lowest bid AFT.
Love the name.
I've always heard to not use one of those ATF flushing machines because the services does not include a new filter and the shop will use the cheapest ATF they can buy. Sorry lowest bid AFT.
Does the Camry have a filter inside the transmission pan, or just a suction screen? If it's just a screen, it's really not necessary to remove the pan unless you want to wipe it out.
For a cleaning product, add either Auto-Rx (6 oz.) or Schaeffer's Neutra (12 oz.) and drive for 1000-1500 miles.
The flush machines certainly work well when there's no filter in the transmission sump. You can see what brand of ATF they use, and be sure that it's OK with you. I like Schaeffer's #204S synthetic blend Dexron III ATF, and it costs less than Mobil 1, Amsoil, or Redline.
To flush yourself,
1) Drain the sump, replace the plug and refill.
2) Disconnect one of the cooler lines at a convenient place, disable the engine so it won't start, crank the engine, and note the direction of flow of the ATF.
3) Install a short extension of some 3/8" hose or tubing on the outlet side of the cooler, run the engine briefly, and pump one or two quarts of ATF into a container, stop the engine.
4) Add an equal amount of new ATF to the transmission.
5) Pump out a couple of quarts, add a couple, etc., etc., until the sump refill and the amount pumped and replaced equal the full capacity of the transmission, maybe a quart or two more if it's dirty and needs a really good flush.
6) Button things back up, correct the level, clean up your mess, take the old ATF to the recycling center, and you're good.
It's smart to install an in-line filter like a Magnefine or SPXFiltran in the cooler line.
Ken
For a cleaning product, add either Auto-Rx (6 oz.) or Schaeffer's Neutra (12 oz.) and drive for 1000-1500 miles.
The flush machines certainly work well when there's no filter in the transmission sump. You can see what brand of ATF they use, and be sure that it's OK with you. I like Schaeffer's #204S synthetic blend Dexron III ATF, and it costs less than Mobil 1, Amsoil, or Redline.
To flush yourself,
1) Drain the sump, replace the plug and refill.
2) Disconnect one of the cooler lines at a convenient place, disable the engine so it won't start, crank the engine, and note the direction of flow of the ATF.
3) Install a short extension of some 3/8" hose or tubing on the outlet side of the cooler, run the engine briefly, and pump one or two quarts of ATF into a container, stop the engine.
4) Add an equal amount of new ATF to the transmission.
5) Pump out a couple of quarts, add a couple, etc., etc., until the sump refill and the amount pumped and replaced equal the full capacity of the transmission, maybe a quart or two more if it's dirty and needs a really good flush.
6) Button things back up, correct the level, clean up your mess, take the old ATF to the recycling center, and you're good.
It's smart to install an in-line filter like a Magnefine or SPXFiltran in the cooler line.
Ken
It never hurts to change the filter, but draining or removing the pan normally leave half of the old oil in the converter. When I changed the ATF in my Grand Cherokee I just pulled the hose from the radiator and poured in fresh fluid while it pumped out the old stuff from the other end. When it started comming out clean, it was done. (I do the same for power steering fluid at one of the hoses)
at what rate did u add fluid? i would like to know, hehe its a little cheaper than t-tec for me. i just dont wnat to starve my tranny.
im out of money till payday =).
Since I have to take my Lexus to a Toyota dealer...no Lexus in Mexico....I can tell you have the tranny flushed. I have seen several ways people have flushed the trannys down here.
1. Full tranny flush with a machine...best way.
2. Tranny flush with the engine on.
3. Two fluids method....fluids flush out most of the old fluid. Most Lexus dealers from my experience practice this.
4. Just drain it...most common and useless way in Mexico.
My Lexus dealer back in Maryland was using Castrol ATF...for what reason I have no idea...even though they actually had a flush unit.
Car felt terrible in Mexico...took it to San Antonio.....ATF was nearly black. Had it change to Toyota Type-IV. This is the stuff you should have used, but Mobil 1 is also okay, both are synthetics. 15K later, car's transmission feeling wonderful.
1. Full tranny flush with a machine...best way.
2. Tranny flush with the engine on.
3. Two fluids method....fluids flush out most of the old fluid. Most Lexus dealers from my experience practice this.
4. Just drain it...most common and useless way in Mexico.
My Lexus dealer back in Maryland was using Castrol ATF...for what reason I have no idea...even though they actually had a flush unit.
Car felt terrible in Mexico...took it to San Antonio.....ATF was nearly black. Had it change to Toyota Type-IV. This is the stuff you should have used, but Mobil 1 is also okay, both are synthetics. 15K later, car's transmission feeling wonderful.
Also as I unfortunately learned the hard way, clamp your hose to your drain pan. There is a good bit of pressure and it will flop around like a firehose with no one holding it if its not clamped down somehow. Believe me cleaning up a quart of ATF from you garage floor is no fun.
High Guys, I posted a UOA of my experince with Redline C+ ATF. Redline is the only company other then Dodge to offer a synthetic specificly for Dodge transmissions. Dodge trannys are know to eat low grade tranny up. I was impressed with the numbers considering that I could only get 50% of the old fluid out of the tranny. Unlike the plain ATF formula that Mulakue(sp) posted Redline puts alot of expnsive additives in their fluid. It looked more like a premium oil the tran fluid when you looked at the UOA. It was full of anti-wear, anti-oxidants, detergents, dispersion agents...... Just so people know that I am not pushing Redline Mobile-1, Amsoil,Neo, QS, Penzoil, Amco, Schaffers.... do not make a fluid specific to meet Daimler Chrysler spec.s so it was Redline or OEM.
I also have a Grand Cherokee(1998) and was thinking of doing the DIY tranny fluid flush. Which hose are you referring to that you pulled? What engine do you have because that may make a difference?
Thanks!
On my GLC I pulled the hose at the radiator, stuck a funnel in the intake hose and kept the funnel full. I sucked in at the rate it pumped out. When it came out clean, I stopped the engine (need two people for this), and helps to pull the tops off of your new fluid and have it at hand.
I figured this trick out one day long ago when I was driving and the hose came off by itself. 3 qts of oil had bathed the hot engine before I could stop from 70 mph. From the smoke screen in my mirror I thought something more serious had happened.
I figured this trick out one day long ago when I was driving and the hose came off by itself. 3 qts of oil had bathed the hot engine before I could stop from 70 mph. From the smoke screen in my mirror I thought something more serious had happened.
I service 3 different hi-priced Toyota's ('98,'99, '00 Lexus'). THey all require Toyota Type T-IV Auto Trans Fluid. I wanted to use Amsoil's, but their technical department told me to stay with Toyota brand Type T-IV. Please make real sure before you add just any AT fluid, no matter how great or expensive. The Type IV comes in 4 liter metal containers. I think it is a "recent" upgrade from original AT.
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