The Right Stuff comes in 1 minute and 90 minute products. Directions for the 1 minute are: Apply continuous bead to one surface. Assemble parts within 5 minutes. Tighten to torque specifications. Return to service. Recommended applications: Oil pans, timing covers, transmission pans, differential covers.What if it takes 2 minutes or longer to apply a bead around a large part like a transmission case? The RTV will be curing before the parts are assembled. Not a good thing. Plus, whatever chemicals that allow a fast cure, compromise strength. If you don't have the 24 hours to wait, maybe find some other product.
That's why I would use a gasket if available.I'm doing a service on a Ford Sterling rear end and the instructions on the tube of Permatex Ultra Black RTV (I'm out of the green stuff) say to let it set an hour with the bolts finger tight before torquing and then wait 24 hours before adding the fluid. I can't imagine that there is a single pro out there that can afford to wait 24 hours before adding the fluid and clearing their bay for the next job. Am I right?
I’m OK with all that but Permatex has Ultra Black, Optimum Black and now Right Stuff Black, all specially designed for motor oil resistance.You keep saying that but it is in general false. Most RTV products weaken badly when subjected to oils, it has its place but generally a gasket made from the proper material for the application is a much better seal. The reason OE use a lot of RTV is ease of automated application on perfectly clean and dry surfaces and the fact that the parts may not see fluids for a long time.
If it was the end of the day I have a few times, but a lot of times I have done like you said, "let it set an hour with the bolts finger tight before torquing" But a little more than finger tight, I'd tighten with a wrench or ratchet till the RTV started to spread out a bit, then let it set for an hour or so, or sometimes even overnight, and torque it the next day, I've had good results with that method.I'm doing a service on a Ford Sterling rear end and the instructions on the tube of Permatex Ultra Black RTV (I'm out of the green stuff) say to let it set an hour with the bolts finger tight before torquing and then wait 24 hours before adding the fluid. I can't imagine that there is a single pro out there that can afford to wait 24 hours before adding the fluid and clearing their bay for the next job. Am I right?
Yea, Toyota states don’t start the engine or fill fluids for 2 hours with their FIPG RTVs. The funny part is the Toyota black 103 FIPG has a somewhat thinner body than Permatex gray, tools easier but cures quicker and harder. Permatex states for Ultra/Optimum to wait 24 hours before placing back in service.Professional oem rtvs do not need 24 hours. So NO
Curing time depends on humidity.Yea, Toyota states don’t start the engine or fill fluids for 2 hours with their FIPG RTVs. The funny part is the Toyota black 103 FIPG has a somewhat thinner body than Permatex gray, tools easier but cures quicker and harder. Permatex states for Ultra/Optimum to wait 24 hours before placing back in service.
Permatex consumer RTVs except for Right Stuff 1 minute want the person applying it to snug bolts by hand, then torque to spec after 1 hour. Right Stuff 90 minute grey is the only one I’ll mess with. Optimum/Ultra Grey takes forever to cure, more than 24 hours.
You can slurp it out with a mity-vac.For a rear end, it doesn't matter. You'll never get all of the oil out of it, so even if you want it to sit overnight, oil will most likely still be be at the very bottom of the cover.