Any reason to use 10w-30 over 5w-30? (modern oils)
- Thread starter ArtDecoWorld
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Hello and welcome
You can run either and not notice a difference unless you live in 0° temps.
The main difference is the start up in real cold temps.
You will get a bunch of technical gibberish from some on here so just pick a quality oil and call it a day.
You can run either and not notice a difference unless you live in 0° temps.
The main difference is the start up in real cold temps.
You will get a bunch of technical gibberish from some on here so just pick a quality oil and call it a day.
You might well get a lower NOACK for the 10W30 compared to the 5W30 in a particular line of oils from a given manufacturer, but that particular performance parameter is often not published and is also not a part of standard UOAs and VOAs.
In practical terms, it probably doesn't make a heck of a lot of difference in your application. In my climate, I don't think running a 10W30 year round makes much sense...but, I'd sure try it as a summer fill if I saw some advantage to it. My turbo is supposed to cook oil up pretty good, so I won't use an oil if I don't have some idea of how it does in the NOACK test.
In practical terms, it probably doesn't make a heck of a lot of difference in your application. In my climate, I don't think running a 10W30 year round makes much sense...but, I'd sure try it as a summer fill if I saw some advantage to it. My turbo is supposed to cook oil up pretty good, so I won't use an oil if I don't have some idea of how it does in the NOACK test.
It all depends on what a person feels works just fine in their vehicles. My 2006 3.6L Caddy and my 2015 Silverado 2500 6.0L both get 10w30 year round in Iowa. Neither one has complained a bit. Same for a lot of other vehicles I have had over the years. Good arguments can be made for the other XXw30 oils I suppose. I just have had very good results over the years with 10w30 in my gassers and even a few diesels that I really see no appreciable need to change with what works. I have moved up to 10w30 synthetics but that is about it. Still 10w30 my preferred choice across the spectrum.
Now given that dexos1 doesn't even allow a 10w30 to be considered, nothing I use is dexos1 "approved" for my GM vehicles. I really don't lose any sleep over that. But each person has to live within their comfort zone in that regard. And I question some of the dexos1 is such a good spec stuff based on what i have seen and heard with problems with some GM engines, especially AFM varieties.
Now given that dexos1 doesn't even allow a 10w30 to be considered, nothing I use is dexos1 "approved" for my GM vehicles. I really don't lose any sleep over that. But each person has to live within their comfort zone in that regard. And I question some of the dexos1 is such a good spec stuff based on what i have seen and heard with problems with some GM engines, especially AFM varieties.
Originally Posted By: leemajors
Originally Posted By: SR5
Originally Posted By: SR5
Garak said:
Been using 10w30 in -20 degree winters for 30 years on my turbo car. No problems, starts fine, still on the road. I use 5w30 in the GM because that's what it calls for.
Your cars will not know the difference between a 5W-30 and a 10W-30 at above freezing temps, a modern 5W30 full synthetic oil will outperform a Conventional 10W-30, believe it or not oil technology has come quite a way since the 90s.
Originally Posted By: leemajors
Originally Posted By: SR5
Originally Posted By: SR5
Garak said:
Originally Posted By: 4WD
I'm running Mobil 1 10w30 HM - stronger ?
Yes much stronger.
M1 10W30 HM is A3/B3 with HTHS = 3.5 cP
Regular M1 5W30, HTHS = 3.1 cP
Regular M1 10W30, HTHS = 3.0 cP
I'm running Mobil 1 10w30 HM - stronger ?
Yes much stronger.
M1 10W30 HM is A3/B3 with HTHS = 3.5 cP
Regular M1 5W30, HTHS = 3.1 cP
Regular M1 10W30, HTHS = 3.0 cP
Awesome info. I'd been looking at ACEA specs and it really gave lots of generalities and didn't list the difference between B3 and B4. I'm probably going to run the M1 0w40 in my wife's 1GR-FE on her next OCI as an A3/B4. But my old girl leaks a little.
Originally Posted By: SR5
Originally Posted By: leemajors
Originally Posted By: SR5
Originally Posted By: SR5
Originally Posted By: leemajors
Originally Posted By: SR5
Garak said:
No Worries Mate.
Thank you gentleman, and any ladies, for all the information. I do apologize for asking something that has likely been asked many times in one form or another. Sometimes we want to phrase/ask something in our own particular way, but I am understanding of how the same basic questions repeated can look. So, thank you for your patience.
It looks like 10w-30 still may have a few benefits in regard to overall stoutness and stability. Although, it seems that for most basic purposes, 5w-30 is full capable across the same higher temp range. But, what fun are internet forums if one can't deep dive and 'overthink' things a bit?
It looks like 10w-30 still may have a few benefits in regard to overall stoutness and stability. Although, it seems that for most basic purposes, 5w-30 is full capable across the same higher temp range. But, what fun are internet forums if one can't deep dive and 'overthink' things a bit?
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: SR5
You want a stout 10W30, check out this UOA for a semi-synthetic Rotella T5 10W30 HDEO.
Exactly. If I don't think an ILSAC 5w-30 is stout enough, I can even find 0w-30 and 5w-30 HDEOs here. They'll be more robust than any 10w-30 ILSAC example out there.
ArtDecoWorl: Overthinking things is a primary purpose of this forum.
You want a stout 10W30, check out this UOA for a semi-synthetic Rotella T5 10W30 HDEO.
Exactly. If I don't think an ILSAC 5w-30 is stout enough, I can even find 0w-30 and 5w-30 HDEOs here. They'll be more robust than any 10w-30 ILSAC example out there.
ArtDecoWorl: Overthinking things is a primary purpose of this forum.
ArtDecoWorld,
Another way I guess you could view it is to see the viscosity spread. Going from 0w-40 is trying to do too many things at once. It, probably, cannot do any one thing well and if it can it probably is expensive of resources and sent the tribology engineers to the insane ward.
But a straight 30 does one thing and is pretty much perfect about it. It is easy to make, is not for everyone nor for all conditions, but is simpler and uses less expensive ingredients.
Another way I guess you could view it is to see the viscosity spread. Going from 0w-40 is trying to do too many things at once. It, probably, cannot do any one thing well and if it can it probably is expensive of resources and sent the tribology engineers to the insane ward.
But a straight 30 does one thing and is pretty much perfect about it. It is easy to make, is not for everyone nor for all conditions, but is simpler and uses less expensive ingredients.
Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28
ArtDecoWorld,
Another way I guess you could view it is to see the viscosity spread. Going from 0w-40 is trying to do too many things at once. It, probably, cannot do any one thing well and if it can it probably is expensive of resources and sent the tribology engineers to the insane ward.
It depends on which 0W-40 you are talking about, but I don't know of any other grade/oil that carries more actual certifications than that. To say it doesn't do "any one thing well" is silly.
ArtDecoWorld,
Another way I guess you could view it is to see the viscosity spread. Going from 0w-40 is trying to do too many things at once. It, probably, cannot do any one thing well and if it can it probably is expensive of resources and sent the tribology engineers to the insane ward.
It depends on which 0W-40 you are talking about, but I don't know of any other grade/oil that carries more actual certifications than that. To say it doesn't do "any one thing well" is silly.
Is there any application today in which a 10w-30 is still preferable to a 5w-30?
Yes, a manual transmission vehicle. When you depress the clutch you're putting a lateral force on the engine - specifically the crank thrust bearings. Although the KV100 may be lower with a 10W the specific gravity/density, and in all probability the HTHS, is higher. A heavier oil is harder to displace.
Yes, a manual transmission vehicle. When you depress the clutch you're putting a lateral force on the engine - specifically the crank thrust bearings. Although the KV100 may be lower with a 10W the specific gravity/density, and in all probability the HTHS, is higher. A heavier oil is harder to displace.
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Originally Posted By: kschachn
Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28
ArtDecoWorld,
Another way I guess you could view it is to see the viscosity spread. Going from 0w-40 is trying to do too many things at once. It, probably, cannot do any one thing well and if it can it probably is expensive of resources and sent the tribology engineers to the insane ward.
It depends on which 0W-40 you are talking about, but I don't know of any other grade/oil that carries more actual certifications than that. To say it doesn't do "any one thing well" is silly.
+1 Most 0w-40's contain expensive base oils and additive packages as they are required to do a lot of heavy lifting to meet the requirements of the OEM testing regiments.
I don't recall ever seeing an M-car, AMG or anything else spec SAE30.
Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28
ArtDecoWorld,
Another way I guess you could view it is to see the viscosity spread. Going from 0w-40 is trying to do too many things at once. It, probably, cannot do any one thing well and if it can it probably is expensive of resources and sent the tribology engineers to the insane ward.
It depends on which 0W-40 you are talking about, but I don't know of any other grade/oil that carries more actual certifications than that. To say it doesn't do "any one thing well" is silly.
+1 Most 0w-40's contain expensive base oils and additive packages as they are required to do a lot of heavy lifting to meet the requirements of the OEM testing regiments.
I don't recall ever seeing an M-car, AMG or anything else spec SAE30.
Since 10W-30 and 5W-30 are the same at operating temperature, use either, does not matter. If it gets really cold where you live, use 5W-30. I would personally just use 5W-30 all year round.
Originally Posted By: ndfergy
Is there any application today in which a 10w-30 is still preferable to a 5w-30?
Yes, a manual transmission vehicle. When you depress the clutch you're putting a lateral force on the engine - specifically the crank thrust bearings. Although the KV100 may be lower with a 10W the specific gravity/density, and in all probability the HTHS, is higher. A heavier oil is harder to displace.
Interesting.
Thanks for sharing
Is there any application today in which a 10w-30 is still preferable to a 5w-30?
Yes, a manual transmission vehicle. When you depress the clutch you're putting a lateral force on the engine - specifically the crank thrust bearings. Although the KV100 may be lower with a 10W the specific gravity/density, and in all probability the HTHS, is higher. A heavier oil is harder to displace.
Interesting.
Thanks for sharing
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