Any DIY engine rebuilders, what are u working on?

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I would like to know who are the DIY engine builders on this forum? if your a professional that cool too.. and what are you working on?

I was thinking maybe this will be a thread that would be interesting, as well as informative for all. I hope this will be interactive thread with questions and answers about all different types of engines that folks are working on....

I'm currently rebuilding a 1985 mercruiser 140, It's a GM 4 cylnder with 4" bores. I had the machine work done, and now I'm assembling the short block, almost finished with it.

I have disassembled the cylinder head, and will be checking it out completely. The cylinder head has intake & exhaust on the same side(for those who are not familiar with this type of marine head).

lots of work to do, and may have a few questions to ask along the way. It has been a long time since I have done this type of rebuild.

Thanks!
 
I've done it in the past- the 440 in the '66 Polara in my sig is one I assembled (after the machine work). But that was nearly 10 years ago, haven't done a major engine project since.
 
I just picked up everything from my local machine shop for assembly pretty soon. In original form it was a 1967 Olds 330 (39 degree cam bank angle block) These had a forged crank from the factory. I had the crank turned .010 on the mains, the rod journals were offset ground from 2.125 to 2.000, increasing the stroke from 3.385 to 3.5". The crank needed machined so I figured WTH. I had the block bored to 4.00" and used a standard 350 Chevy forged piston, 1.425 CH, -16.4 cc dish, Eagle lightweight H-Beam 6.125" Chevy rod (Small journal 283/327 rod)and had the block 0 decked. After 47 years of heat cycles there was only .003" variation from front to rear of the decks, not too bad. Static compression came to 9.03, this combo makes 351 c.i. the hard way. Pump gas friendly was what I was after so all accessories could remain in place. I'm using the stock #4 heads, increasing the intake and exhaust valves to 2" and 1.625 respectively. Just a little bowl and guide ramp cleanup, nothing exotic. Will be street/highway only in my 1986 Cutlass. With the cam I'm using this combo should have a real nice, smooth torque curve, behave very nicely on the computer with the modified electronic Quadrajet on the highway and still pull good gas mileage numbers.
 
My brother and I have a 350 we are gonna do. I was thinkin of hanging a turbo on it. He says twins, we will see
 
This is great!
Meeting you folks, and it's nice to read about what y'all are working on
cool...
 
i rebuilt the engine (302/5.0L) that's in the '90 F150 that's in my autosignature about 3 years ago. I upgraded many parts to performance aftermarket and it runs well.
 
I just did my Honda (listed below) at 30 years and 420K miles. The oil control rings failed and it would not pass California smog. I did the whole engine just because I had it apart. I farmed out the machine work to a friend's shop along with the head, then reassembled and re-installed the engine in my garage at home. It now runs like new and passed smog with flying colors. This will be the last of many engines I've rebuilt over the years.

If it were not for the failure of the oil control rings none of this would have been done. On the day I tore it apart the compression readings were at new car specs. On the head rebuild not one new part was needed. The valves and seats were redone, not replaced. The contact surface area was even all the way around and the only parts on the head that were worn out were the guide seals that were shot.

I purchased a "rebuild kit" that was all NOS parts. The bores cleaned up with just the slightest touch of honing and when re-assembled there were still original hone marks at the bottom of the bores. The oil, you ask. Red Line.

Right now I'm looking for rocker arms. The current ones are good but I know they are going to be the next wear item to go and I want to be ready.

I purchased this car new with cash, never a car payment, and as I've said before I hope to be able to drive it to my own funeral.
 
I've done an Olds 425, 327 Chevy, 225 Dodge slant six, Ford 2.3. This was many years ago. I would love to do more stuff though. Sounds like you guys are having fun.......
 
This summer, My daughter and I plan to rebuild the 230 flathead 6 in our '57 Plymouth.
 
Been a lot of years since I did any.
In the past-
Small block Chevys-265-283-327-350
6 cyl. 235
Mopars-225/6-V8-273-383
Ford-239 flat head-
352-390-427.
Have a 400 Mopar I hope to do some day.
 
I have done a few GM and Ford V8's over the years and my current build is a 1949 Buick 248 Straight 8 engine. I am building an old style hot rod and wanted something really different. No it wont be fast but it will sound and look cool and be fun to cruise around in.
 
cool...is that an Ecotec 2.2?

I was working on a 2004 Cavalier with a Ecotec 2.2 It had a PO302 misfire code.I diagnosed it with a burnt exhaust valve in cylinder #2. I tore it all down to the block, sent the head out for a total rebuild, and assembled it all back together. I also installed a new timing chain, guides, ect.

if I can help answer any questions about the engine, if you have the Ecotec 2.2 or 2.4, feel free to ask
 
cool...Polara? I believe my dad had one, and think it was a 66 4 door. I think it had a 318? I liked that car.

I'm currently helping a friend with a 73 Challenger, he is putting a 318 into it that came out of a 76 Dodge van. I'm sure the wiring is going to be fun
 
that sounds cool...that should be one strong engine. What about the drive train, changing anything?
 
Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
I just did my Honda (listed below) at 30 years and 420K miles. The oil control rings failed and it would not pass California smog. I did the whole engine just because I had it apart. I farmed out the machine work to a friend's shop along with the head, then reassembled and re-installed the engine in my garage at home. It now runs like new and passed smog with flying colors. This will be the last of many engines I've rebuilt over the years.

If it were not for the failure of the oil control rings none of this would have been done. On the day I tore it apart the compression readings were at new car specs. On the head rebuild not one new part was needed. The valves and seats were redone, not replaced. The contact surface area was even all the way around and the only parts on the head that were worn out were the guide seals that were shot.

I purchased a "rebuild kit" that was all NOS parts. The bores cleaned up with just the slightest touch of honing and when re-assembled there were still original hone marks at the bottom of the bores. The oil, you ask. Red Line.

Right now I'm looking for rocker arms. The current ones are good but I know they are going to be the next wear item to go and I want to be ready.

I purchased this car new with cash, never a car payment, and as I've said before I hope to be able to drive it to my own funeral.




Wow! sounds like you got a good one there to hang on to, so how is the transmission holding up? auto or manual?
 
Originally Posted By: qdeezie
i rebuilt the engine (302/5.0L) that's in the '90 F150 that's in my autosignature about 3 years ago. I upgraded many parts to performance aftermarket and it runs well.


cool...I like the F250 Diesels, but can't afford one at the moment.

The 5.0s are stout small blocks and can be built to the hilt. I just finished working on a 93 stang GT 5.0 built engine. The engine will thump, and I had the Police called on me Christmas day, as I had it idling in the back yard just ensuring everything was working as it should before I returned it Friday.
 
here are some pics of my current build, 1st one in a long time, hope it runs when I'm done
the block back from the machine shop



cleaning the engine

 
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