Any difference in car wash products?

I would not overthink it. The $7 Meguiars gold class 48 oz jug only needs 1 oz per wash. That's 48 washes for $7. that 15 cents/wash.

Comare that to the local pressure washer place where it takes $1.25 just to get the sprayer blowing.

I've used it for years on my 2007 Tacoma in dark blue (shows scratches easily). no buildup to speak of. If you drive long enough and want the silk smooth finish feel of new paint you NEED to claybar before waxing. The little brakedust and other stuff you pickup at highway speeds embeds into the paint and have to be physically removed. (thats what a claybar does) You only "need" to do that every year or so. not too often and it is optional.

I also like to use a microfiber mit. Microfiber has lots of little "pockets" to grab grime and hold it.

You never want to scrub hard on paint. Water is a very good solvent on its own with no help. hose the car down and let the water loosen the dirt before washing to make your job easier.

I like Megs better the blue coral as I notices a difference. The blue coral didn't seem slippery unless I put a heavy dose in the bucket. Like glug glug heavy. meg get just as slippery with very little. I dont care about suds, it just want slippery so the mit slides easily across the surface.
 
You do not need a high PH soap to remove grime.

That's what agitation is for.
Higher pH and surfactants helps to break down grease for easier removal. Nobody on this thread, save you, made a direct statement, or even intimated, one needs high pH soap to remove grime (dirt ingrained on the surface of something). While your statement is technically correct, there is no correlation or connection with anything in this thread.
 
Nope. Most car soaps are pH neutral which means they cannot truly clean you car and remove unwanted contaminants. Best car wash is Purple Power Vehicle and Boat Wash. Then use a quality spray wax like Turtle Wax Ice. This way the vehicle is decontaminated with every cleaning and always waxed and hydrophobic.
To remove build-up or road film, a higher pH and surfactant cleaner must be used.
Higher pH and surfactants helps to break down grease for easier removal. Nobody on this thread, save you, made a direct statement, or even intimated, one needs high pH soap to remove grime (dirt ingrained on the surface of something). While your statement is technically correct, there is no correlation or connection with anything in this thread.

YOU'RE the one that came into this thread talking about the PH levels of car soap and how, to quote you DIRECTLY, "Most car soaps are pH neutral which means they cannot truly clean you car and remove unwanted contaminants."

Check your head, man.
 
Can't go wrong with a gallon of Meguairs Gold Class (easy to get anywhere and cheap), or even better a gallon of their D110 Hyper Wash (not as easy to find but well priced.) A little goes lonnnggg way with the Hyper Wash...
 
I use CarPro Reset, but I'm picky and don't need/want wax in my wash, and would rather not strip my sealant off as I wash often. 500:1 dilution and it goes a very long way.
 
Depends on what your goal is. If car is coated and scratch free - than yes, there is. If not and taken to the car washes here and there - the no
 
To remove build-up or road film, a higher pH and surfactant cleaner must be used. pH neutral soaps can only go after loose dirt, and cannot remove harmful contaminants. Any parking spot has oil, transmission fluid, brake fluid, etc. drips. Those are on the road as well. When it rains, those oils and contaminants are on the panels. Using a pH neutral soap will not remove this, and eventually they'll become bonded contaminants which can damage the clear coat. If you have light dust after a week or two and want to do a maintenance wash, Megs Gold Class is fine. Blue Coral is fine. But if you want to truly clean the panel to 100% or as close to it as possible, use a high pH soap as mentioned. It doesn't matter if it breaks down wax, which is most petroleum distillates. Use a good spray wax like Turtle Wax Ice and get around your vehicle in 5 minutes. That way your panel is 100% clean and decontaminated and 100% waxed and hydrophobic, always. Scott from Dallas paint Correction made a video on this and is corroborated by professional carpet cleaners, Tennier Sanitation, Corvus. If you have greasy clothes, add a little Borax to the washer. It helps break down the grease by increasing the pH. If you want to clean your vehicle's panel (remove oils and grease which is road film) use Purple Power, and even a shot of Super Clean. Manipulation of pH is desired for targeted cleaning. Acids are more effective when working on minerals like rust spots and calcium buildup. Higher pH and surfactants are desired when removing grease and oils.



How about the iron & contamination remover to remove what you are talking about using a high pH car wash product.
 
pH is only one part of the equation. The type of surfactants used and other ingredients all play a role. Turtle Wax Max Power wash for example is dirty cheap at $7 a gal and you can change the pH depending on ration used. However per MSDS, it doesn't use the most eco friendly ingredients, hence the low cost. One of the best cleaning soaps I've used was Carpro Reset, which i think is near pH neutral. It cleans well due to the chemistry used, not pH.

An alkaline car-wash solution having a pH of 10, should in theory, not be aggressive/strong enough to remove hardy LSPs. If it did, I'd switch LSP's. What I've learned recently from a chemist that used to post on AG is that removing an LSP, especially one of the newer ones, is a lot harder than most think. Most strip washes don't work and lack of beading isn't proof they are gone. You need to really polish to remove an LSP.

"Many supposed LSP strippers are surfactant containing. Many surfactants will 'stick' to surfaces either through design (e.g. to enhance gloss or stop water spotting) or because they see the LSP as rather similar in structure to the oils they like to bond with. As a result, many surfactant products will leave a film of surfactant on top of the LSP, this will then attract water so hide any beading or sheeting of the LSP.


This is what has happened in my first picture - there is a surfactant film. With the IPA wipe, I have dissolved the film and uncovered the LSP and thus pictures 2 and 3 show the beading has returned."
 
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PH neutral soap is vital to conserving whatever layer of protection you put on the paint. Any soap from a reputable brand works well.

You should not need a high PH soap to properly clean a car. That said, Superior Products Dirt Buster has a PH of 10 and cuts through pretty much anything.
Where do you buy SP from?
 
I've used a lot of different car wash soaps through the years. I've been on Meguiars Ultimate Wash & Wax for a couple of years now. Doesn't strip wax or even spray sealers, lubricates the surface really well for hand washing, leaves the surface very clean and smooth. Works great in the foam cannon.
 
My favorite shampoos that I've used are:

Hyper-Wash
Reset
Optimum Car Wash
 
I buy most of my detailing supplies on line Auto Geek or Paul's Distributors. The higher cost soaps stop the microscratches
 
Car wash up the road charges $5.00 for the basic wash and has free vacuums
I'm hesitant to take a new vehicle through the car wash mainly because I don't know how clean the moving parts are. Will the dirt and grime on the mudded up bubba mobile that was in front of you remain in the machine and damage your paint? I only take my daily driver through them.

Carwash soap wise, I use Maguire's and Turtle Wax with a foam cannon.
 
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