Since I have the MMO I might as well use it a little. I'm thinking 8oz should be enough for a light cleaning?
Anti-Sludge Game Plan!
- Thread starter Lethal1ty17
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8 ounces isn't going to much of any engine cleaning. It won't hurt anything but I wouldn't expect to see it go after any varnish or sludge deposits either.
Use a pint of mmo in your current OCI for 1k miles and then change the oil/filter.
I would then do an OCI of 3K miles and use a pint of MMO and fill up with the new conventional 10W30 Pennzoil. After that OCI, do a regular OCI of 7500 miles with only Pennzoil Ultra/pureone oil filter(no MMO)....
I would then do an OCI of 3K miles and use a pint of MMO and fill up with the new conventional 10W30 Pennzoil. After that OCI, do a regular OCI of 7500 miles with only Pennzoil Ultra/pureone oil filter(no MMO)....
well since I dont have time before work to drain out some oil, since its actually above the full mark on the dipstick now, I just added 8oz. Drove it for like a mile and it instantly turned the oil darker.
I'll add some more this weekend. But would running a 7500-10,000 mile OCI after this with just straight PU be a good idea since I already have a jug of PU and PP?
I'll add some more this weekend. But would running a 7500-10,000 mile OCI after this with just straight PU be a good idea since I already have a jug of PU and PP?
Originally Posted By: Lethal1ty17
well since I dont have time before work to drain out some oil, since its actually above the full mark on the dipstick now, I just added 8oz. Drove it for like a mile and it instantly turned the oil darker.
I'll add some more this weekend. But would running a 7500-10,000 mile OCI after this with just straight PU be a good idea since I already have a jug of PU and PP?
MMO turning oil a darker color in 1 mile is something new to me. It could just be the mixing of the two colors. I've mixed 2 ounces of VSOT into a qt of oil w/o pouring it into the engine and the oil turned darker. Schaeffers #132 mixed into oil gives it a greenish tint. MMO added to oil and shaken changes the color of the oil before it is added to the engine as well. Redish brown, depending on the color of the oil it is added to.
I'm not doubting you, but I doubt 8 ounces of MMO added to oil is doing anything in 1 mile other than mixing in.
Keep us posted on the progress!
well since I dont have time before work to drain out some oil, since its actually above the full mark on the dipstick now, I just added 8oz. Drove it for like a mile and it instantly turned the oil darker.
I'll add some more this weekend. But would running a 7500-10,000 mile OCI after this with just straight PU be a good idea since I already have a jug of PU and PP?
MMO turning oil a darker color in 1 mile is something new to me. It could just be the mixing of the two colors. I've mixed 2 ounces of VSOT into a qt of oil w/o pouring it into the engine and the oil turned darker. Schaeffers #132 mixed into oil gives it a greenish tint. MMO added to oil and shaken changes the color of the oil before it is added to the engine as well. Redish brown, depending on the color of the oil it is added to.
I'm not doubting you, but I doubt 8 ounces of MMO added to oil is doing anything in 1 mile other than mixing in.
Keep us posted on the progress!
If you are a tinkerer then tinker on but don't look for sludge where there isn't any and there is no sludge in that engine (like said quite a few times above).
That is one of the cleanest 3.0L Mitsu engines I have ever seen... Usually they are alot more heavily varnished, mind you I have seen mainly Chrysler 3 Litres and not the official Mitsu ones.
i must say, for only being here a week, you are a fast learner. impressive
also, you don't even have a sludge problem
also, you don't even have a sludge problem
1 quart mmo the last 1000k until the winter, at which point you can run mmo throughout the entire oci. add some to your gas, as well.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
MMO turning oil a darker color in 1 mile is something new to me. It could just be the mixing of the two colors. I've mixed 2 ounces of VSOT into a qt of oil w/o pouring it into the engine and the oil turned darker. Schaeffers #132 mixed into oil gives it a greenish tint. MMO added to oil and shaken changes the color of the oil before it is added to the engine as well. Redish brown, depending on the color of the oil it is added to.
This could just be the case, I'm not really sure. I looked at the dipstick before and after I put it in and noticed that it was slightly darker. I wouldnt assume 1 mile would do much either to be honest, but I'm just telling what I saw.
Originally Posted By: StevieC
That is one of the cleanest 3.0L Mitsu engines I have ever seen... Usually they are alot more heavily varnished, mind you I have seen mainly Chrysler 3 Litres and not the official Mitsu ones.
They are essentially the same engine with different logos. Chrysler and Mitsubishi had a deal between 2000-2005 with the Eclipses and Stratus R/T's to use the same engine (6G72), and the same basic engine (6G74) plus a few small changes was used in the Mitsubishi 3000GT and the Dodge Stealth before that.
Originally Posted By: [RT
ProjUltraZ]i must say, for only being here a week, you are a fast learner. impressive
also, you don't even have a sludge problem
Thank you. I've been reading this site every day for a number of weeks before I even registered or made a post. The amount of info here is amazing.
And yes, I know I dont have a sludge "problem", however, I don't like the fact that there is any sludge in my engine at all so I'd like to get rid of it. If there is nothing to be harmed by removing it then I hardly see a reason not to.
MMO turning oil a darker color in 1 mile is something new to me. It could just be the mixing of the two colors. I've mixed 2 ounces of VSOT into a qt of oil w/o pouring it into the engine and the oil turned darker. Schaeffers #132 mixed into oil gives it a greenish tint. MMO added to oil and shaken changes the color of the oil before it is added to the engine as well. Redish brown, depending on the color of the oil it is added to.
This could just be the case, I'm not really sure. I looked at the dipstick before and after I put it in and noticed that it was slightly darker. I wouldnt assume 1 mile would do much either to be honest, but I'm just telling what I saw.
Originally Posted By: StevieC
That is one of the cleanest 3.0L Mitsu engines I have ever seen... Usually they are alot more heavily varnished, mind you I have seen mainly Chrysler 3 Litres and not the official Mitsu ones.
They are essentially the same engine with different logos. Chrysler and Mitsubishi had a deal between 2000-2005 with the Eclipses and Stratus R/T's to use the same engine (6G72), and the same basic engine (6G74) plus a few small changes was used in the Mitsubishi 3000GT and the Dodge Stealth before that.
Originally Posted By: [RT
ProjUltraZ]i must say, for only being here a week, you are a fast learner. impressive
also, you don't even have a sludge problem
Thank you. I've been reading this site every day for a number of weeks before I even registered or made a post. The amount of info here is amazing.
And yes, I know I dont have a sludge "problem", however, I don't like the fact that there is any sludge in my engine at all so I'd like to get rid of it. If there is nothing to be harmed by removing it then I hardly see a reason not to.
So I think some "important" sludge or something was dissolved today, due to the 4 inch oil drip spot under the car, which has never happened. Interesting.
That Varnish came from the Lucas. You do not need to use Lucas. I too thought i did, at one point. Turns out, its not needed unless the engine has a SEVERE problem, like Blown head Gasket, and you know it is that. Thats when you use Lucas.
I have heard that if you were to remove Sludge from the pan with a scraper, the Engine will grenade? Something about not doing it to other parts equally, idk.
I will continue reading the Thread now, but that engine looks pretty good.
And yes, MMO and other things will turn your oil weird colors. I had a can of Moly make my Oil look the same color as an Army tent from M*A*S*H.
I have heard that if you were to remove Sludge from the pan with a scraper, the Engine will grenade? Something about not doing it to other parts equally, idk.
I will continue reading the Thread now, but that engine looks pretty good.
And yes, MMO and other things will turn your oil weird colors. I had a can of Moly make my Oil look the same color as an Army tent from M*A*S*H.
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The only time Lucas I find is helpful is when an engine has a bad knocking problem or hardened valve-seals or bad rings and is burning oil like crazy otherwise the $#!@ isn't needed.
I dont think your engine will grenade if you clean the pan out with a scraper. If anything, you removed a healthy amount of sludge and your engine should run better.
Though I'm all for using the MMO to remove the small amounts of sludge from my engine, seeing it leaking like that makes me nervous and uneasy.
Though I'm all for using the MMO to remove the small amounts of sludge from my engine, seeing it leaking like that makes me nervous and uneasy.
Originally Posted By: Lethal1ty17
I dont think your engine will grenade if you clean the pan out with a scraper. If anything, you removed a healthy amount of sludge and your engine should run better.
Though I'm all for using the MMO to remove the small amounts of sludge from my engine, seeing it leaking like that makes me nervous and uneasy.
Yeah but still, its probably the MMO at work. I always see drips under my car but i know where it comes from. (Not Oil.)
MMO is very thin, a "Naphthenic" like SeaFoam.
SeaFoam is also great for the last 100 miles of an OCI. It is slightly more powerful than MMO, but will clean better. Just dont leave it in there. Repeat: DO NOT leave SeaFoam in Crankcase, even though they say you can, MMO is the only one you can "leave in."
And it will get through the thinnest thing Regular Oil would never get through. Kind of like Gasoline.
And Stevie, i made reference because there was one member here that had his Engine die after scraping.. Oh yes i remember now. he cleaned the VALVE Cover, and the Sludge from other areas filled it and killed his engine up there.
This is why i will only let an Oil product, whatever it is, clean, and not me with a screwdriver and a Scraper. That is why. There you have it. Good engine with Sludge that Ran to No Engine. I tread Carefully, and measure 5 times and cut Once.
You also told me a new use for Lucas.. Helps undo hardened Valev Seals? This the Regular Honey-like Lucas thats $10 a bottle and looks like Empire State Building everywhere? Lucas is some heavy Syrup-like stuff. I heard 80-weight.
I dont think your engine will grenade if you clean the pan out with a scraper. If anything, you removed a healthy amount of sludge and your engine should run better.
Though I'm all for using the MMO to remove the small amounts of sludge from my engine, seeing it leaking like that makes me nervous and uneasy.
Yeah but still, its probably the MMO at work. I always see drips under my car but i know where it comes from. (Not Oil.)
MMO is very thin, a "Naphthenic" like SeaFoam.
SeaFoam is also great for the last 100 miles of an OCI. It is slightly more powerful than MMO, but will clean better. Just dont leave it in there. Repeat: DO NOT leave SeaFoam in Crankcase, even though they say you can, MMO is the only one you can "leave in."
And it will get through the thinnest thing Regular Oil would never get through. Kind of like Gasoline.
And Stevie, i made reference because there was one member here that had his Engine die after scraping.. Oh yes i remember now. he cleaned the VALVE Cover, and the Sludge from other areas filled it and killed his engine up there.
You also told me a new use for Lucas.. Helps undo hardened Valev Seals? This the Regular Honey-like Lucas thats $10 a bottle and looks like Empire State Building everywhere? Lucas is some heavy Syrup-like stuff. I heard 80-weight.
Well, that makes me feel a litle bit better then, it is pretty thin stuff.
I just didnt want my engine leaking like a seive. Especially when I fill it with the holy grail of motor oils...Pennzoil Ultra. I'm totally pumped to have one of the most advanced liquids ever created...in my 120k engine. Party on.
Side note: I would assume that such a high end oil would have a decent amount of seal swellers?
I just didnt want my engine leaking like a seive. Especially when I fill it with the holy grail of motor oils...Pennzoil Ultra. I'm totally pumped to have one of the most advanced liquids ever created...in my 120k engine. Party on.
Side note: I would assume that such a high end oil would have a decent amount of seal swellers?
Originally Posted By: HangerHarley
MMO is very thin, a "Naphthenic" like SeaFoam.
Just to be clear - MMO uses a Naphthenic Oil (about 70%), which is an oil with very good cleaning properties (along with other ingredients you can find in some of my other posts for a total makeup)
Seafoam uses lots of Naphtha - which is not an oil, but a pure solvent - along with some other solvents and very little light oil
MMO and Seafoam are very different animals as Seafoam in oil is more of a quick-flush product with no lubricity adds and MMO is a full OCI cleaning additive with excellent lubrication properties in it's own right with the inclusion of TCP (Tri-Cresyl Phosphate).
That said - MMO is thin - 5W or about 3cst at 100F - so if you use 1/2 quart in an oil change, no need to change weight of host oil. But if you use a full quart (10-25% range recommended with 20% being ideal), I recommend going up one grade (for a car designed for a 20wt, go to a 5W30 or even better a 10W30)
MMO is very thin, a "Naphthenic" like SeaFoam.
Just to be clear - MMO uses a Naphthenic Oil (about 70%), which is an oil with very good cleaning properties (along with other ingredients you can find in some of my other posts for a total makeup)
Seafoam uses lots of Naphtha - which is not an oil, but a pure solvent - along with some other solvents and very little light oil
MMO and Seafoam are very different animals as Seafoam in oil is more of a quick-flush product with no lubricity adds and MMO is a full OCI cleaning additive with excellent lubrication properties in it's own right with the inclusion of TCP (Tri-Cresyl Phosphate).
That said - MMO is thin - 5W or about 3cst at 100F - so if you use 1/2 quart in an oil change, no need to change weight of host oil. But if you use a full quart (10-25% range recommended with 20% being ideal), I recommend going up one grade (for a car designed for a 20wt, go to a 5W30 or even better a 10W30)
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on a side note, the MMO smells very good and I might even use it as cologne
so far the MMO does seem to be working it magic. my 3.0L which is notorious for hydraulic lifter ticking is super quiet and smooth, if it werent for my open borla exhaust, i'd swear it almost wasnt running at all. its just about as quiet at our 4cyl honda accord.
the MMO has been in for around 200 miles, and i know i should run it more before i drain it, im just itching to finally try the jug of Ultra that i have sitting here.
so far the MMO does seem to be working it magic. my 3.0L which is notorious for hydraulic lifter ticking is super quiet and smooth, if it werent for my open borla exhaust, i'd swear it almost wasnt running at all. its just about as quiet at our 4cyl honda accord.
the MMO has been in for around 200 miles, and i know i should run it more before i drain it, im just itching to finally try the jug of Ultra that i have sitting here.
Give the MMO a little more time. The Ultra won't go bad. 
Im going to give it a few more days, I might possibly break down and do it tomorrow...I want the holy grail and new standard of synthetic motor oils in my engine....NOW!
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