Currently I'm using JD Cool-Gard and need to do a t-stat change on my 05 Colorado. I have to travel to get the JD coolant and it's $16gal, so I think I'll use a plain ethylene glycol this time. Any recommendations on brand? BTW, I switched to coolgard 4yrs ago after dumping the dexcool.
All "Green" Coolants created equally?
- Thread starter Keith_Stone
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Hello, Do double check this....I read where your coolant, JD Cool Gard, is green colored G-05. IF that's the case, you needn't drive so far for coolant. Like I said, double check that one. Merry Christmas Kira
Most of the old school greens seem like they're the same, and Peak/Old World makes a BUNCH of private label ones, like Full Force, AZ, and Durex.
Originally Posted By: Kira
Hello, Do double check this....I read where your coolant, JD Cool Gard, is green colored G-05. IF that's the case, you needn't drive so far for coolant. Like I said, double check that one. Merry Christmas Kira
It's a HOAT, based on this thread. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1696012
Hello, Do double check this....I read where your coolant, JD Cool Gard, is green colored G-05. IF that's the case, you needn't drive so far for coolant. Like I said, double check that one. Merry Christmas Kira
It's a HOAT, based on this thread. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1696012
Its not uncommon for folks here to drive 100miles 1 way to work in los Angeles. A few crazy ones drive 200miles 1 way to jobs in vegas.
Originally Posted By: Keith_Stone
Originally Posted By: Kira
Hello, Do double check this....I read where your coolant, JD Cool Gard, is green colored G-05. IF that's the case, you needn't drive so far for coolant. Like I said, double check that one. Merry Christmas Kira
It's a HOAT, based on this thread. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1696012
I would think you are fine with using G-05 even though its not identical. Its the same basic chemistry (HOAT). You do not need to worry about cylinder liner cavitation unless you have a wet liner diesel.
Originally Posted By: Kira
Hello, Do double check this....I read where your coolant, JD Cool Gard, is green colored G-05. IF that's the case, you needn't drive so far for coolant. Like I said, double check that one. Merry Christmas Kira
It's a HOAT, based on this thread. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1696012
I would think you are fine with using G-05 even though its not identical. Its the same basic chemistry (HOAT). You do not need to worry about cylinder liner cavitation unless you have a wet liner diesel.
Originally Posted By: Donald
Originally Posted By: Keith_Stone
Originally Posted By: Kira
Hello, Do double check this....I read where your coolant, JD Cool Gard, is green colored G-05. IF that's the case, you needn't drive so far for coolant. Like I said, double check that one. Merry Christmas Kira
It's a HOAT, based on this thread. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1696012
I would think you are fine with using G-05 even though its not identical. Its the same basic chemistry (HOAT). You do not need to worry about cylinder liner cavitation unless you have a wet liner diesel.
It's probably no big deal in my gasser. I may just use a plain EG. At the time I dumped the dexcool and flushed, I used a cheap EG for 1K miles and then changed to JD Cool-Gard thinking I wanted a long life coolant. I don't know how long I'll keep the truck so I'll keep the cost down.
Originally Posted By: Keith_Stone
Originally Posted By: Kira
Hello, Do double check this....I read where your coolant, JD Cool Gard, is green colored G-05. IF that's the case, you needn't drive so far for coolant. Like I said, double check that one. Merry Christmas Kira
It's a HOAT, based on this thread. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1696012
I would think you are fine with using G-05 even though its not identical. Its the same basic chemistry (HOAT). You do not need to worry about cylinder liner cavitation unless you have a wet liner diesel.
It's probably no big deal in my gasser. I may just use a plain EG. At the time I dumped the dexcool and flushed, I used a cheap EG for 1K miles and then changed to JD Cool-Gard thinking I wanted a long life coolant. I don't know how long I'll keep the truck so I'll keep the cost down.
John Deere Coolguard is not a silicate free coolant. Chevys need to have a silicate free coolant according the OM. I have thought about using the coolguard myself. Its too expensive as well. I use the prestone dexcool at wallymart or the regular extended life stuff would be fine. Cheap too.
Why dump the CoolGard after 4 years? Its an extended life coolant that at the very least needs an SCA charge, more than likely needs nothing.
I have CoolGard in service in engines approaching 20 years without issue.
Coolgard isn't comparable without other older formulations of green coolant as its long-life, its compatable with most coolant formulations.
As I remember it was rated at 5 years/5,000 hrs. service life and with periodic checking/refurbishing additives it can last a very long time.
I have CoolGard in service in engines approaching 20 years without issue.
Coolgard isn't comparable without other older formulations of green coolant as its long-life, its compatable with most coolant formulations.
As I remember it was rated at 5 years/5,000 hrs. service life and with periodic checking/refurbishing additives it can last a very long time.
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
Why dump the Dex to begin with?
The Dex started to become a little cloudy and had some particulates in suspension.
Why dump the Dex to begin with?
The Dex started to become a little cloudy and had some particulates in suspension.
Originally Posted By: roadrunner1
Why dump the CoolGard after 4 years? Its an extended life coolant that at the very least needs an SCA charge, more than likely needs nothing.
I have CoolGard in service in engines approaching 20 years without issue.
Coolgard isn't comparable without other older formulations of green coolant as its long-life, its compatable with most coolant formulations.
As I remember it was rated at 5 years/5,000 hrs. service life and with periodic checking/refurbishing additives it can last a very long time.
Got to change a stat(side mount) and hate to make the drive to buy some top off. On this motor I'll lose 1-1.5gals.
Why dump the CoolGard after 4 years? Its an extended life coolant that at the very least needs an SCA charge, more than likely needs nothing.
I have CoolGard in service in engines approaching 20 years without issue.
Coolgard isn't comparable without other older formulations of green coolant as its long-life, its compatable with most coolant formulations.
As I remember it was rated at 5 years/5,000 hrs. service life and with periodic checking/refurbishing additives it can last a very long time.
Got to change a stat(side mount) and hate to make the drive to buy some top off. On this motor I'll lose 1-1.5gals.
If the rad has a drain you could reuse what you drain out.
Originally Posted By: Keith_Stone
Currently I'm using JD Cool-Gard and need to do a t-stat change on my 05 Colorado. I have to travel to get the JD coolant and it's $16gal, so I think I'll use a plain ethylene glycol this time. Any recommendations on brand? BTW, I switched to coolgard 4yrs ago after dumping the dexcool.
Prestone AMAM(all makes all models) is good, and though I hate WM, their version is supposedly the same stuff. There was a thread on it here awhile back.
Currently I'm using JD Cool-Gard and need to do a t-stat change on my 05 Colorado. I have to travel to get the JD coolant and it's $16gal, so I think I'll use a plain ethylene glycol this time. Any recommendations on brand? BTW, I switched to coolgard 4yrs ago after dumping the dexcool.
Prestone AMAM(all makes all models) is good, and though I hate WM, their version is supposedly the same stuff. There was a thread on it here awhile back.
Originally Posted By: George7941
If the rad has a drain you could reuse what you drain out.
No drain, but I think I'll pull the lower radiator hose and catch in a clean bucket and strain it if necessary to re-use.
If the rad has a drain you could reuse what you drain out.
No drain, but I think I'll pull the lower radiator hose and catch in a clean bucket and strain it if necessary to re-use.
Paper coffee filters are good for straining coolant. A clean sock can be used for the first pass if you have large particles.
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