Accord Uses Oil...Should I be concerned?
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Originally Posted By: mclasser
Like others said, step up to a HM or 30wt oil. Not sure if that year had VCM but if so, it's probably done a real number to the spark plugs and PCV valve.
Could you explain me, please, how thicker oil could help? Or you believe in worn piston rings on Accord with 76k miles?
Like others said, step up to a HM or 30wt oil. Not sure if that year had VCM but if so, it's probably done a real number to the spark plugs and PCV valve.
Could you explain me, please, how thicker oil could help? Or you believe in worn piston rings on Accord with 76k miles?
Originally Posted By: timeau
Originally Posted By: mclasser
Like others said, step up to a HM or 30wt oil. Not sure if that year had VCM but if so, it's probably done a real number to the spark plugs and PCV valve.
Could you explain me, please, how thicker oil could help? Or you believe in worn piston rings on Accord with 76k miles?
Read here.
http://www.hondaproblems.com/trends/excessive-oil-consumption/
Originally Posted By: mclasser
Like others said, step up to a HM or 30wt oil. Not sure if that year had VCM but if so, it's probably done a real number to the spark plugs and PCV valve.
Could you explain me, please, how thicker oil could help? Or you believe in worn piston rings on Accord with 76k miles?
Read here.
http://www.hondaproblems.com/trends/excessive-oil-consumption/
Move up thickness in oil, use a 5w40 or an oil close to this weight.
Most here rather a car that burns oil(it will kill the catalyst) than go up thicker to reduce consumption.
But i guess most people follow the recommended oil, which in some counties are different. FOR EXAMPLE (not an accord
) a nissan tiida recommended oil is 5w30, yet the tiidas that are sent to the Caribbean , the car manual states that 10w40 and 20w50 are ok.
Most here rather a car that burns oil(it will kill the catalyst) than go up thicker to reduce consumption.
But i guess most people follow the recommended oil, which in some counties are different. FOR EXAMPLE (not an accord
) a nissan tiida recommended oil is 5w30, yet the tiidas that are sent to the Caribbean , the car manual states that 10w40 and 20w50 are ok.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: timeau
Originally Posted By: lancerplayer
For the last 2 OCIs, my 2009 Honda Accord EX-L 3.5L V6 has used about 1 quart in 3k miles.
Is this excessive?
Yes.
Originally Posted By: lancerplayer
Should I be concerned?
I could say "no, this is normal" just to repeat what other are saying. Many of us would do ridiculous things just to be "as all other". But I'll say: yes, this is a problem. Just THINK what could be the reason of oil consumption. Think, and everything will be much clearer:
Reasons:
0. Leaking oil pan gasket or nut.
1. Clogged PCV valve. Is it normal to have it clogged?
2. Worn valve seals. Is it normal? But I think that this is not your case.
3. Clogged oil drainage holes in the pistons.
4. Clogged piston rings.
I would check PCV first. But I am 99% sure that it is more or less fine. The reason of your troubles is in deposits on pistons.
There are a number of solutions. All of them are against "local rules" since people in case of problems prefer to change the thickness and oil brand. This sounds like to treat cancer by eating chocolate yougurt twice a day, but let it be. So my personal proposals are:
1. After a quart of oil is consumed add a quart of transmission fluid. Drive for about 500-1000 miles.
2. Add deposit control staff into your oil. My favorite is this VitaFlush, but regular STP could work too. I just did not try STP myself. Also I consider MMO as useless staff.
3. Change oil and forget about Pennzoil Platinum. Use Pennzoil Yellow, Mobil Super, Castrol GTX. These Group II oils have better additives holding.
4. Change oil each 5k miles. This is cheap, don't play in stupid game "who runs on oil longer". Winner will get a prize of destroyed engine.
If these steps did not let reduce oil consumption to more or less reputable half of quart per 5k miles, you may try this staff for piston rings.
And if this does not work, you have something more serious than all these reasons. Visit a good mechanic or drive as is.
Do not use transmission oil as a drive around or idle flush, it might strip the protective anti wear layer away and may not be compatible to modern oil seals, even before you consider any reactions between the different oil types.
The OP has an engine that is drinking oil, so if you use any type of flush it could easily make that
problem worse due to the false oil seal effect.
If the engine is not leaking oil, using a major brand idle use flush just before an oil and filter change might be worth considering IF the OP thinks the block is dirty, but that is probably not the cause of the high oil consumption in this case.
Originally Posted By: lancerplayer
For the last 2 OCIs, my 2009 Honda Accord EX-L 3.5L V6 has used about 1 quart in 3k miles.
Is this excessive?
Yes.
Originally Posted By: lancerplayer
Should I be concerned?
I could say "no, this is normal" just to repeat what other are saying. Many of us would do ridiculous things just to be "as all other". But I'll say: yes, this is a problem. Just THINK what could be the reason of oil consumption. Think, and everything will be much clearer:
Reasons:
0. Leaking oil pan gasket or nut.
1. Clogged PCV valve. Is it normal to have it clogged?
2. Worn valve seals. Is it normal? But I think that this is not your case.
3. Clogged oil drainage holes in the pistons.
4. Clogged piston rings.
I would check PCV first. But I am 99% sure that it is more or less fine. The reason of your troubles is in deposits on pistons.
There are a number of solutions. All of them are against "local rules" since people in case of problems prefer to change the thickness and oil brand. This sounds like to treat cancer by eating chocolate yougurt twice a day, but let it be. So my personal proposals are:
1. After a quart of oil is consumed add a quart of transmission fluid. Drive for about 500-1000 miles.
2. Add deposit control staff into your oil. My favorite is this VitaFlush, but regular STP could work too. I just did not try STP myself. Also I consider MMO as useless staff.
3. Change oil and forget about Pennzoil Platinum. Use Pennzoil Yellow, Mobil Super, Castrol GTX. These Group II oils have better additives holding.
4. Change oil each 5k miles. This is cheap, don't play in stupid game "who runs on oil longer". Winner will get a prize of destroyed engine.
If these steps did not let reduce oil consumption to more or less reputable half of quart per 5k miles, you may try this staff for piston rings.
And if this does not work, you have something more serious than all these reasons. Visit a good mechanic or drive as is.
Do not use transmission oil as a drive around or idle flush, it might strip the protective anti wear layer away and may not be compatible to modern oil seals, even before you consider any reactions between the different oil types.
The OP has an engine that is drinking oil, so if you use any type of flush it could easily make that
problem worse due to the false oil seal effect.
If the engine is not leaking oil, using a major brand idle use flush just before an oil and filter change might be worth considering IF the OP thinks the block is dirty, but that is probably not the cause of the high oil consumption in this case.
There is not much you can do other than checking the PCV valve and ensuring that the oil level never falls below the L mark.
You can certainly run 5W-30, even 0W-40, to reduce the consumption.
My 31-year-old engine consumes only about 0.3 qt in 5,000 miles with 0W-20. However, this is only after I replaced the valve-stem oil seals. With 0W-40, the consumption is negligible.
You can certainly run 5W-30, even 0W-40, to reduce the consumption.
My 31-year-old engine consumes only about 0.3 qt in 5,000 miles with 0W-20. However, this is only after I replaced the valve-stem oil seals. With 0W-40, the consumption is negligible.
Originally Posted By: Swifty
Originally Posted By: timeau
Originally Posted By: mclasser
Like others said, step up to a HM or 30wt oil. Not sure if that year had VCM but if so, it's probably done a real number to the spark plugs and PCV valve.
Could you explain me, please, how thicker oil could help? Or you believe in worn piston rings on Accord with 76k miles?
Read here.
http://www.hondaproblems.com/trends/excessive-oil-consumption/
So? Where is it written that customers need to use thicker oil? Until piston ring and pistons are not worn out, thicker oil will not help.
Originally Posted By: UltrafanUK
Do not use transmission oil as a drive around or idle flush, it might strip the protective anti wear layer away and may not be compatible to modern oil seals, even before you consider any reactions between the different oil types.
Also do not eat meat and vegetables together. Meat will strip out the protective layer from your stomach and may not be compatible with modern GMO vegetables.
Sounds same, huh?
Originally Posted By: timeau
Originally Posted By: mclasser
Like others said, step up to a HM or 30wt oil. Not sure if that year had VCM but if so, it's probably done a real number to the spark plugs and PCV valve.
Could you explain me, please, how thicker oil could help? Or you believe in worn piston rings on Accord with 76k miles?
Read here.
http://www.hondaproblems.com/trends/excessive-oil-consumption/
So? Where is it written that customers need to use thicker oil? Until piston ring and pistons are not worn out, thicker oil will not help.
Originally Posted By: UltrafanUK
Do not use transmission oil as a drive around or idle flush, it might strip the protective anti wear layer away and may not be compatible to modern oil seals, even before you consider any reactions between the different oil types.
Also do not eat meat and vegetables together. Meat will strip out the protective layer from your stomach and may not be compatible with modern GMO vegetables.
Sounds same, huh?
There was an interesting thread recently on the RidgelineOwnersClub forum. A fellow 'spun' a rod bearing. He reported that the engine had started using "a little oil in the last year or so." He ran M1 5W20, and that upon tear-down the engine was very clean inside, but cyl.6 rod bearing had failed, and valves bent. He also reported 4 of 6 cylinders' oil control rings were stuck (coked).
The J35 in the Ridgeline does _not_ use VCM, so what is happening in your engine may be influenced by other factors we (Ridgeline owners) are not subject to. There are other things to check, but somehow, coked oil control rings come to mind given that recent thread.
The J35 in the Ridgeline does _not_ use VCM, so what is happening in your engine may be influenced by other factors we (Ridgeline owners) are not subject to. There are other things to check, but somehow, coked oil control rings come to mind given that recent thread.
I was seeing 1.0-1.5 qts/4000 miles using a 5w-20 synthetic over several OCI's. I went back to conventional and literally no usage that next OCI. Have gone up to 5W-30 PP since then (orig spec for the engine before Ford back-specced it) and still no oil usage of note.
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I'd say you should be concerned, isn't that the engine that Himda extended the warranty for oil consumption? I believe they replace the piston rings. If you haven't exceeded the extended warranty mileage, perhaps you should consider having them replace the rings. I know right now you're not burning enough to have the repair done, but I imagine it'll get worse. Keep an eye on it. And you never know, some dealers - if it's slow right now - may repair the car despite it not using "enough" oil.
in regards to the VCM V6 engine....
Basically when not operating on all 6 cylinders...
the cylinders that are deactivated are obviously still connected to the crankshaft and are still moving up and down at 3000 RPM etc
all that friction generates HEAT
without fuel entering the cylinder to cool things down the cylinder become much hotter than normal
1. and causes spark plugs issues like having the ceramic crack off into the cylinder
2. and rings coking up from the oil being super heated on the cylinder walls
this super heating scenario only happens speeds/situation that the engine is in non 6 cylinder operation.
so if you drive pedal to the metal everywhere your engine will probably last longer
if you drive mostly highway in ECO mode, your engine will die sooner.
also using oils that don't tolerate higher engine temps will kill it faster
So its not a question of IF but rather WHEN the engine will self destruct
I agreed with the fix of disabling the VCM with a muzzler II
Basically when not operating on all 6 cylinders...
the cylinders that are deactivated are obviously still connected to the crankshaft and are still moving up and down at 3000 RPM etc
all that friction generates HEAT
without fuel entering the cylinder to cool things down the cylinder become much hotter than normal
1. and causes spark plugs issues like having the ceramic crack off into the cylinder
2. and rings coking up from the oil being super heated on the cylinder walls
this super heating scenario only happens speeds/situation that the engine is in non 6 cylinder operation.
so if you drive pedal to the metal everywhere your engine will probably last longer
if you drive mostly highway in ECO mode, your engine will die sooner.
also using oils that don't tolerate higher engine temps will kill it faster
So its not a question of IF but rather WHEN the engine will self destruct
I agreed with the fix of disabling the VCM with a muzzler II
Originally Posted By: Brybo86
in regards to the VCM V6 engine....
Basically when not operating on all 6 cylinders...
the cylinders that are deactivated are obviously still connected to the crankshaft and are still moving up and down at 3000 RPM etc
all that friction generates HEAT
without fuel entering the cylinder to cool things down the cylinder become much hotter than normal
The summary of your premise is that the energy absorbed by evaporating fuel is greater than the energy given off by burning the same quantity of fuel. If that were true, the engine would not generate power, it would consume power. In other words, your premise and therefore your entire explanation is false.
in regards to the VCM V6 engine....
Basically when not operating on all 6 cylinders...
the cylinders that are deactivated are obviously still connected to the crankshaft and are still moving up and down at 3000 RPM etc
all that friction generates HEAT
without fuel entering the cylinder to cool things down the cylinder become much hotter than normal
The summary of your premise is that the energy absorbed by evaporating fuel is greater than the energy given off by burning the same quantity of fuel. If that were true, the engine would not generate power, it would consume power. In other words, your premise and therefore your entire explanation is false.
Originally Posted By: bulwnkl
Originally Posted By: Brybo86
in regards to the VCM V6 engine....
Basically when not operating on all 6 cylinders...
the cylinders that are deactivated are obviously still connected to the crankshaft and are still moving up and down at 3000 RPM etc
all that friction generates HEAT
without fuel entering the cylinder to cool things down the cylinder become much hotter than normal
The summary of your premise is that the energy absorbed by evaporating fuel is greater than the energy given off by burning the same quantity of fuel. If that were true, the engine would not generate power, it would consume power. In other words, your premise and therefore your entire explanation is false.
OK genius.
Does the fuel entering the cylinder cool at all?
Does the cooling system still remove some heat from the block?
Are the deactivated cylinders still producing power?
Why is it that the VCM deactivated cylinders are the only cylinders having issues?
How about instead of giving some moronic sentence saying "no" you offer some kind of actual insight on the problem with the OP car and the VCM engine issues?
Are you dnewton reincarnate?
Originally Posted By: Brybo86
in regards to the VCM V6 engine....
Basically when not operating on all 6 cylinders...
the cylinders that are deactivated are obviously still connected to the crankshaft and are still moving up and down at 3000 RPM etc
all that friction generates HEAT
without fuel entering the cylinder to cool things down the cylinder become much hotter than normal
The summary of your premise is that the energy absorbed by evaporating fuel is greater than the energy given off by burning the same quantity of fuel. If that were true, the engine would not generate power, it would consume power. In other words, your premise and therefore your entire explanation is false.
OK genius.
Does the fuel entering the cylinder cool at all?
Does the cooling system still remove some heat from the block?
Are the deactivated cylinders still producing power?
Why is it that the VCM deactivated cylinders are the only cylinders having issues?
How about instead of giving some moronic sentence saying "no" you offer some kind of actual insight on the problem with the OP car and the VCM engine issues?
Are you dnewton reincarnate?
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Thanks for the replies so far.
Just quick note...I went on a road trip this weekend totaling 700 miles. I checked the oil level at the 400 mile mark. I had to add about half a quart to bring the oil level up to the half way between high and low indicators. Average speed was about 70 MPH and I averaged about 27 MPG according to the vehicle's "trip computer".
Just quick note...I went on a road trip this weekend totaling 700 miles. I checked the oil level at the 400 mile mark. I had to add about half a quart to bring the oil level up to the half way between high and low indicators. Average speed was about 70 MPH and I averaged about 27 MPG according to the vehicle's "trip computer".
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