Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
Sounds like you did good. Shake the can inbetween adding it and you can put the can upside down while filling. What's nice is it has a gauge and you can check it in a couple weeks to see what it went down to.
A/C recharge can question...
- Thread starter gregk24
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Originally Posted By: zzyzzx
Sounds like you are still a little low. If that's really the case (emphasis on really) then you probably have a bigger leak than I thought and your A/C will not work this good for long.
Having said that what you did is a pretty good test just to see that your only problem is low refrigerant caused by a leak.
You have to realize that the compressor has been oily for quite some time, probably a year or more. So I suppose over a year a bit could have leaked out.
Sounds like you are still a little low. If that's really the case (emphasis on really) then you probably have a bigger leak than I thought and your A/C will not work this good for long.
Having said that what you did is a pretty good test just to see that your only problem is low refrigerant caused by a leak.
You have to realize that the compressor has been oily for quite some time, probably a year or more. So I suppose over a year a bit could have leaked out.
I went on a drive and rechecked pressure and when the compressor kicks on the pressure spikes up to the mid to upper level of the "green", then when it turns off it goes below the green, is this normal? Also, how often is the compressor supposed to cycle?
When the compressor is on is when you should see the lower pressure...when its off is when you see the higher pressure.....cycling should have slowed down as you added refrigerant and u creep up on a full charge.....for simplicity sake...with system on and fan on high and running for a few minutes...suction(low side) line should be cool/cold...hi side hot and compressor cycling some but not every 2-3 seconds and the air outvof the vents cold....alot depends on ambient temps..condition of system etc....if the low side is cold...hi side hot ...compressor not cycling much and its cooling decent you are in the ballpark....better to be undercharged then over...
Originally Posted By: DSparks
When the compressor is on is when you should see the lower pressure...when its off is when you see the higher pressure.....cycling should have slowed down as you added refrigerant and u creep up on a full charge.....for simplicity sake...with system on and fan on high and running for a few minutes...suction(low side) line should be cool/cold...hi side hot and compressor cycling some but not every 2-3 seconds and the air outvof the vents cold....alot depends on ambient temps..condition of system etc....if the low side is cold...hi side hot ...compressor not cycling much and its cooling decent you are in the ballpark....better to be undercharged then over...
Well it's opposite, when the compressor kicks on the gauge goes up
When the compressor is on is when you should see the lower pressure...when its off is when you see the higher pressure.....cycling should have slowed down as you added refrigerant and u creep up on a full charge.....for simplicity sake...with system on and fan on high and running for a few minutes...suction(low side) line should be cool/cold...hi side hot and compressor cycling some but not every 2-3 seconds and the air outvof the vents cold....alot depends on ambient temps..condition of system etc....if the low side is cold...hi side hot ...compressor not cycling much and its cooling decent you are in the ballpark....better to be undercharged then over...
Well it's opposite, when the compressor kicks on the gauge goes up
leave it alone until it stops cooling! you have done enough as a test. if you lose cooling in a week, then you know you have a substantial leak which needs to get fixed. if the cooling last for a season, then you can continue doing this.
do not listen to anybody who tells you to dump multiple cans in the system. all they want to do is to blow up your a/c system.
do not listen to anybody who tells you to dump multiple cans in the system. all they want to do is to blow up your a/c system.
Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
Originally Posted By: Vikas
leave it alone until it stops cooling! you have done enough as a test. if you lose cooling in a week, then you know you have a substantial leak which needs to get fixed. if the cooling last for a season, then you can continue doing this.
do not listen to anybody who tells you to dump multiple cans in the system. all they want to do is to blow up your a/c system.
This. With my experience it wasn't multiple cans, just needed a top off every season.
leave it alone until it stops cooling! you have done enough as a test. if you lose cooling in a week, then you know you have a substantial leak which needs to get fixed. if the cooling last for a season, then you can continue doing this.
do not listen to anybody who tells you to dump multiple cans in the system. all they want to do is to blow up your a/c system.
This. With my experience it wasn't multiple cans, just needed a top off every season.
Originally Posted By: gregk24
I went on a drive and rechecked pressure and when the compressor kicks on the pressure spikes up to the mid to upper level of the "green", then when it turns off it goes below the green, is this normal? Also, how often is the compressor supposed to cycle?
I think you have that backward, are you quite sure when it's disengaging? Unless you're connected to the high side (unlikely, the fittings are purposely different), that's really not how it should work. The cooling fans should be turning on when it's running.
For what it's worth, my 2004 CR-V cycled often, maybe 15 seconds of running followed by 5 seconds off, then back on. Seemed far too often, but the dealer checked out the pressures and said they were what they should be. Did it since I drove it off the lot new, but it was always cold for years.
I went on a drive and rechecked pressure and when the compressor kicks on the pressure spikes up to the mid to upper level of the "green", then when it turns off it goes below the green, is this normal? Also, how often is the compressor supposed to cycle?
I think you have that backward, are you quite sure when it's disengaging? Unless you're connected to the high side (unlikely, the fittings are purposely different), that's really not how it should work. The cooling fans should be turning on when it's running.
For what it's worth, my 2004 CR-V cycled often, maybe 15 seconds of running followed by 5 seconds off, then back on. Seemed far too often, but the dealer checked out the pressures and said they were what they should be. Did it since I drove it off the lot new, but it was always cold for years.
Why not add dye and have it properly charged, and then fix the leak rather than using these hack repairs which will only cause problems down the road. By adding sealant you just ruined the entire system.
Originally Posted By: oilpsi2high
Why not add dye and have it properly charged, and then fix the leak rather than using these hack repairs which will only cause problems down the road. By adding sealant you just ruined the entire system.
First of all, I bought one that doesn't have sealant, at least it wasnt advertised on the bottle. Second, how would that "ruin the entire system" as many hear have used these products with success...not to mention the thousands of people that have used these without issue. I am not saying that they can not damage a system, but when used according to the directions it seems some have shown benefit.
Why not add dye and have it properly charged, and then fix the leak rather than using these hack repairs which will only cause problems down the road. By adding sealant you just ruined the entire system.
First of all, I bought one that doesn't have sealant, at least it wasnt advertised on the bottle. Second, how would that "ruin the entire system" as many hear have used these products with success...not to mention the thousands of people that have used these without issue. I am not saying that they can not damage a system, but when used according to the directions it seems some have shown benefit.
It clogs the condenser
There is no harm using straight R-134a and I think by law companies must state that the product contains sealants and or anything else besides the straight refrigerant product.
The OP has it right too, as long as you get enough R134a into the system and it still has enough PAG oil in it you should get decent cold air, even if you don't get the exact amount. LESS is better than more when it comes to AC systems if you are not sure, also some tips some R134a systems still have sight glasses in them so if you look for bubbles you are low, no bubbles you are in the correct ballpark. Also when you feel the low pressure line (suction line) and it is nice and cold, you have adequate refrigerant in the system. True also about the cheap gauges supplied with the fix in a can stuff, be wary of them they can freeze up and give false readings!
The OP has it right too, as long as you get enough R134a into the system and it still has enough PAG oil in it you should get decent cold air, even if you don't get the exact amount. LESS is better than more when it comes to AC systems if you are not sure, also some tips some R134a systems still have sight glasses in them so if you look for bubbles you are low, no bubbles you are in the correct ballpark. Also when you feel the low pressure line (suction line) and it is nice and cold, you have adequate refrigerant in the system. True also about the cheap gauges supplied with the fix in a can stuff, be wary of them they can freeze up and give false readings!
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