98-99 era Honda had a recall for a switch replacement. You might check to see if it was done. The main power relay is the most likely other option, it can be re-soldered with a little care and research.
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'98 Honda Accord - SputtersTo A Stop
- Thread starter Finz
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Even if the ignition switch replacement was done under recall, it may need to be replaced again as they continue to wear out. Honda only does one free replacement.
Check Youtube for videos on ignition switch and main relay replacements.
Check Youtube for videos on ignition switch and main relay replacements.
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Found some info on testing the relay... Will go that route first and, if faulty, see about repair (depends on which module is in there as to whether or not I can get ithe board exposed)
Many thanks for bringing this to my attention... Once again BITOG saved me a chuck of money
Many thanks for bringing this to my attention... Once again BITOG saved me a chuck of money
When my main relay went bad my symptoms were a little different than yours. I have a 2000 Accord 4 cylinder. It never stalled while moving. It happened during summer time. My symptoms were intermittent no start. It felt different than a bad battery/starter. It would have no sound when I try to click to start. Maybe on the 4th or 5th try it would start. I was able to ascertain (fairly certain) by listenting to a faint click when turning the key to on position. You have to turn down the radio/fan, etc. Thru trial and error I was able to pinpoint when it wouldn't start. When I turn the key to ON if I hear a faint click sound then I know I am good. If that faint click sound was missing then there was no start.
On my 98 Accord, it was the ignition switch. ~175k miles on the car when it happened. It had been replaced once under recall, so I had to pay the $$ to replace it myself. I think the part was only $50 or so and it fixed it -- at 240k and counting. I guess if the switch fails every 90k, I'll have to put another one in before too long, lol.
I'm not sure if the dash lit up or not when it would die on the highway.
Part number is 35130-S84-A01 -- online discounters should sell the OEM part for around $55, plus shipping. I wouldn't have much heartburn over using an aftermarket part, either, since the official Honda part is no great shakes.
I'm not sure if the dash lit up or not when it would die on the highway.
Part number is 35130-S84-A01 -- online discounters should sell the OEM part for around $55, plus shipping. I wouldn't have much heartburn over using an aftermarket part, either, since the official Honda part is no great shakes.
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Originally Posted By: brages
On my 98 Accord, it was the ignition switch. ~175k miles on the car when it happened. It had been replaced once under recall, so I had to pay the $$ to replace it myself. I think the part was only $50 or so and it fixed it -- at 240k and counting. I guess if the switch fails every 90k, I'll have to put another one in before too long, lol.
I'm not sure if the dash lit up or not when it would die on the highway.
Part number is 35130-S84-A01 -- online discounters should sell the OEM part for around $55, plus shipping. I wouldn't have much heartburn over using an aftermarket part, either, since the official Honda part is no great shakes.
Brages... I have to double check the part number I was given by local dealer, but they wanted $225 or so. Online I'm seeing $150 - $165. I recall seeing several choices, some of which were a lot cheaper... That would be great to cut the price by 2/3
Also, when you replaced the assembly, did you then need separate key for door vs ignition? I suppose it's possible to get the door tumblers retooled to match but probably not worth the expense
On my 98 Accord, it was the ignition switch. ~175k miles on the car when it happened. It had been replaced once under recall, so I had to pay the $$ to replace it myself. I think the part was only $50 or so and it fixed it -- at 240k and counting. I guess if the switch fails every 90k, I'll have to put another one in before too long, lol.
I'm not sure if the dash lit up or not when it would die on the highway.
Part number is 35130-S84-A01 -- online discounters should sell the OEM part for around $55, plus shipping. I wouldn't have much heartburn over using an aftermarket part, either, since the official Honda part is no great shakes.
Brages... I have to double check the part number I was given by local dealer, but they wanted $225 or so. Online I'm seeing $150 - $165. I recall seeing several choices, some of which were a lot cheaper... That would be great to cut the price by 2/3
Also, when you replaced the assembly, did you then need separate key for door vs ignition? I suppose it's possible to get the door tumblers retooled to match but probably not worth the expense
Originally Posted By: Finz
Found some info on testing the relay... Will go that route first and, if faulty, see about repair (depends on which module is in there as to whether or not I can get ithe board exposed)
Many thanks for bringing this to my attention... Once again BITOG saved me a chuck of money
This video should help you if you want to repair it:
Honda Relay Repair
It's easy to disassemble, but hard to detect the bad solder joint(s) because the cracks are micro-hairline sized.
Found some info on testing the relay... Will go that route first and, if faulty, see about repair (depends on which module is in there as to whether or not I can get ithe board exposed)
Many thanks for bringing this to my attention... Once again BITOG saved me a chuck of money
This video should help you if you want to repair it:
Honda Relay Repair
It's easy to disassemble, but hard to detect the bad solder joint(s) because the cracks are micro-hairline sized.
Originally Posted By: Finz
Brages... I have to double check the part number I was given by local dealer, but they wanted $225 or so. Online I'm seeing $150 - $165. I recall seeing several choices, some of which were a lot cheaper... That would be great to cut the price by 2/3
Also, when you replaced the assembly, did you then need separate key for door vs ignition? I suppose it's possible to get the door tumblers retooled to match but probably not worth the expense
As Vikas noted, you don't need to mess with the lock assembly; the part that needs to be replaced is an electrical switch that attaches to the lock. It's pretty easy and I'm sure Youtube videos abound.
You can go to a site like Majestic Honda and look at the exploded views to check the part number. Majestic is a little steep on shipping, though.
Brages... I have to double check the part number I was given by local dealer, but they wanted $225 or so. Online I'm seeing $150 - $165. I recall seeing several choices, some of which were a lot cheaper... That would be great to cut the price by 2/3
Also, when you replaced the assembly, did you then need separate key for door vs ignition? I suppose it's possible to get the door tumblers retooled to match but probably not worth the expense
As Vikas noted, you don't need to mess with the lock assembly; the part that needs to be replaced is an electrical switch that attaches to the lock. It's pretty easy and I'm sure Youtube videos abound.
You can go to a site like Majestic Honda and look at the exploded views to check the part number. Majestic is a little steep on shipping, though.
Quick Update:
Replaced the Fuel Pump relay and had the car running for a solid 45 minutes.
Pulled into a parking lot, made a couple calls, shot out a couple emails after turning the car off.
Start it up and head out to leave and the car stalls... Simply stops running with idiot lights on.
Nodby around so I push myself into a spot and try to start the car.. takes a few minutes and never catches.
The last time I try, the lights start flashing like crazy AND (this is new) I can hear the release clicking at the gear shift - the noise you hear when you you depress the brake pedal and the transmission is released to change gears.. You know what I'm talking about?
The car starts but then dies again.
A couple more tries and it starts and is running well - I throw it into gear, pull out of the parking lot and make it to a few hundred feet where it stalls again.
I pull into a side road that is quiet and try again. Sometime it would start and stall with idiot lights ON, other times it would start and stall with NO idiot lights on. I started the car and help the key very steady in running position and it stalled again
Called my mechanic and he, too, felt the switch might be the culprit... but he couldn't be sure.
Called Honda and they were guessing, too... suggested it might be the fuel pump itself.
I'd say the next step is to replace the electrical switch in the ignition as noted above but, before I do, anyone have any other suggestions?
I realize it's hard to diagnose via the web but any thoughts would be appreciated
Thank you
By the way, Honda web site tells me the problematic ignition switch was replaced in 2002
Replaced the Fuel Pump relay and had the car running for a solid 45 minutes.
Pulled into a parking lot, made a couple calls, shot out a couple emails after turning the car off.
Start it up and head out to leave and the car stalls... Simply stops running with idiot lights on.
Nodby around so I push myself into a spot and try to start the car.. takes a few minutes and never catches.
The last time I try, the lights start flashing like crazy AND (this is new) I can hear the release clicking at the gear shift - the noise you hear when you you depress the brake pedal and the transmission is released to change gears.. You know what I'm talking about?
The car starts but then dies again.
A couple more tries and it starts and is running well - I throw it into gear, pull out of the parking lot and make it to a few hundred feet where it stalls again.
I pull into a side road that is quiet and try again. Sometime it would start and stall with idiot lights ON, other times it would start and stall with NO idiot lights on. I started the car and help the key very steady in running position and it stalled again
Called my mechanic and he, too, felt the switch might be the culprit... but he couldn't be sure.
Called Honda and they were guessing, too... suggested it might be the fuel pump itself.
I'd say the next step is to replace the electrical switch in the ignition as noted above but, before I do, anyone have any other suggestions?
I realize it's hard to diagnose via the web but any thoughts would be appreciated
Thank you
By the way, Honda web site tells me the problematic ignition switch was replaced in 2002
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Originally Posted By: Finz
the car stalls... Simply stops running with idiot lights on.
1) When you crank and the engine does not fire, does the tach needle jiggle just the tiniest amount while cranking, or is it dead still?
2) Are there any error codes stored in the ECM?
the car stalls... Simply stops running with idiot lights on.
1) When you crank and the engine does not fire, does the tach needle jiggle just the tiniest amount while cranking, or is it dead still?
2) Are there any error codes stored in the ECM?
Originally Posted By: Finz
1) I don't believe there was any tach movement until the engine caught albeit briefly. (the car started right up now so I can't be positive about the tach movement)
Check VERY carefully. If the tach needle does not move even the tiniest bit while cranking, then the igniter (ICM) is bad. The symptoms you described earlier appear to point to the igniter.
Originally Posted By: Finz
2) Just started the car and No Codes
Did you use an OBD-II code reader to check for codes? If not, then do so.
Does the Check Engine light go off two seconds after the key is turned to "II" and remain off thereafter, or does it come back on again when the engine refuses to start?
1) I don't believe there was any tach movement until the engine caught albeit briefly. (the car started right up now so I can't be positive about the tach movement)
Check VERY carefully. If the tach needle does not move even the tiniest bit while cranking, then the igniter (ICM) is bad. The symptoms you described earlier appear to point to the igniter.
Originally Posted By: Finz
2) Just started the car and No Codes
Did you use an OBD-II code reader to check for codes? If not, then do so.
Does the Check Engine light go off two seconds after the key is turned to "II" and remain off thereafter, or does it come back on again when the engine refuses to start?
Are you asking about tach movement when the car doesn't start? I fired the car up earlier and the tach didn't move unti the engine caught... And it caught very quickly
When the car is in the no-start condition, I can't say but will pay attention next time. Problem, of course, is that I can't predict or force the issue... Very haphazard
I did use an OBD II reader... 0 codes
As for the engine light - COMPLETELY arbitrary. The light will come on when I'm trying to start it but doesn't start. At times, the light comes on when car stalls. Other times, compete back out For the most part, though, the check engine light will turn off then on again as I try to to start the car but there is no rhyme or reason nor anything cyclical about any of this
Again, completely arbitrary
When the car is in the no-start condition, I can't say but will pay attention next time. Problem, of course, is that I can't predict or force the issue... Very haphazard
I did use an OBD II reader... 0 codes
As for the engine light - COMPLETELY arbitrary. The light will come on when I'm trying to start it but doesn't start. At times, the light comes on when car stalls. Other times, compete back out For the most part, though, the check engine light will turn off then on again as I try to to start the car but there is no rhyme or reason nor anything cyclical about any of this
Again, completely arbitrary
Can you "feel" if it is running out of fuel or ignition? If you have experience on a lawn mower, you would remember how the mower dies if you turn the shut off valve vs when you cut the ignition. There is a difference in how the engine dies.
What is the weight for your keys? How many keys in the bundle? Start the car and wiggle the key enthusiastically and see if it dies.
What is the weight for your keys? How many keys in the bundle? Start the car and wiggle the key enthusiastically and see if it dies.
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Can you "feel" if it is running out of fuel or ignition? If you have experience on a lawn mower, you would remember how the mower dies if you turn the shut off valve vs when you cut the ignition. There is a difference in how the engine dies.
What is the weight for your keys? How many keys in the bundle? Start the car and wiggle the key enthusiastically and see if it dies.
I wsh I could be more definitive but there are 4 + scenarios that might occur:
1. Tooling down the hwy at 60 mph and I'll simply notice that the car is off... Not kidding. Never felt a thing
2. Traveling along at neighborhood speeds and car will just stall out/turn off.. Might sputter. Might just stop
3. Taking off from a stand still and will sputter to a stall... Just like a lawnmower running out of gas
4. Trying to restart the car and once it engages, sputters to a stall just like a lawnmower running out of gas
5. Trying to start the car and it simply won't engage for several attempts
Sometimes the idiot lights flicker like mad when trying to restart.
Sometimes the car stalls and the idiot lites are on
Sometimes a complete blackout in the dash
I can't find a common thread that would make any one of the above happen. Very sporadic
No real weight to the key chain... 1 key and several of those plastic bar code tabs
I tried jiggling the keys to help start it.... Nothing that I could discern
I tried jiggling after starting to see if I could force a stall... Nothing
I tried holding key tight against key cylinder to prevent any jiggling and it still stalled out
If we didn't need the car, I might enjoy the process in finding the problem. But between the need for the car combined with the cold weather, I'm starting to get fed up
Thanks for the questions... True detective work this one
Can you "feel" if it is running out of fuel or ignition? If you have experience on a lawn mower, you would remember how the mower dies if you turn the shut off valve vs when you cut the ignition. There is a difference in how the engine dies.
What is the weight for your keys? How many keys in the bundle? Start the car and wiggle the key enthusiastically and see if it dies.
I wsh I could be more definitive but there are 4 + scenarios that might occur:
1. Tooling down the hwy at 60 mph and I'll simply notice that the car is off... Not kidding. Never felt a thing
2. Traveling along at neighborhood speeds and car will just stall out/turn off.. Might sputter. Might just stop
3. Taking off from a stand still and will sputter to a stall... Just like a lawnmower running out of gas
4. Trying to restart the car and once it engages, sputters to a stall just like a lawnmower running out of gas
5. Trying to start the car and it simply won't engage for several attempts
Sometimes the idiot lights flicker like mad when trying to restart.
Sometimes the car stalls and the idiot lites are on
Sometimes a complete blackout in the dash
I can't find a common thread that would make any one of the above happen. Very sporadic
No real weight to the key chain... 1 key and several of those plastic bar code tabs
I tried jiggling the keys to help start it.... Nothing that I could discern
I tried jiggling after starting to see if I could force a stall... Nothing
I tried holding key tight against key cylinder to prevent any jiggling and it still stalled out
If we didn't need the car, I might enjoy the process in finding the problem. But between the need for the car combined with the cold weather, I'm starting to get fed up
Thanks for the questions... True detective work this one
To me, the dash lights and engine doing random things with little to no repeatability is where I would start looking.
I don't see where you checked connections at the battery; if not, do that first. If the OE ends have been replaced with universal ends, take them off and inspect them for corrosion. Check the main power source wire(s) for the ECM/Ignition switch for obvious damage/burns/looseness... Get the engine running and wiggle wires thoroughly. Do the same at the ignition switch (wire harness)
I don't see where you checked connections at the battery; if not, do that first. If the OE ends have been replaced with universal ends, take them off and inspect them for corrosion. Check the main power source wire(s) for the ECM/Ignition switch for obvious damage/burns/looseness... Get the engine running and wiggle wires thoroughly. Do the same at the ignition switch (wire harness)
You probably won't understand the joke, but it sounds like you bought a car from Carnoobie.
Maybe check your grounds. Your dash shouldn't be doing Xmas tree, no lamps, and normal lamps. The dash lamps should be consistent if another component is to blame.
Maybe check your grounds. Your dash shouldn't be doing Xmas tree, no lamps, and normal lamps. The dash lamps should be consistent if another component is to blame.
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