5w30 in a Generator

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Jun 11, 2014
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VA
I have a GP6500 Generac generator that is air cooling. My power will be out all day and the power company advised us to plan for an outage while upgrading in happening. I pulled my standby generac out and checked the oil. It was due for service so I fired it up to warn it and drained the oil out. It only holds 1 quart for oil. The book said SAE 30, 10w30 or full synthetic 5w30. All I had on had in those three was a quart of Chevron Supreme 5w30 synthetic blend. It’s supposed to be 77-78 degrees today any it’s going to run to keep my fridge and freezers going as well as the celling fans to keep it cool inside. Should I change it out after these repairs on the power lines or do you think a 5w30 blend is stout enough for this application?
 
I would try to find some regular 30wt oil. My Generac SE 10000 10kW generator has a Subaru Robin engine and both Subaru and Generac say to use 30wt or 10w-30 or 10w-40 at that temp range. Above about 75 degrees you can also use 40 wt. there are no 5w oils listed at any temp range.
 
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I don't know what engine your's has but mine takes 1.55 liters of oil - 52.48 ounces.
 
I have a GP6500 Generac generator that is air cooling. My power will be out all day and the power company advised us to plan for an outage while upgrading in happening. I pulled my standby generac out and checked the oil. It was due for service so I fired it up to warn it and drained the oil out. It only holds 1 quart for oil. The book said SAE 30, 10w30 or full synthetic 5w30. All I had on had in those three was a quart of Chevron Supreme 5w30 synthetic blend. It’s supposed to be 77-78 degrees today any it’s going to run to keep my fridge and freezers going as well as the celling fans to keep it cool inside. Should I change it out after these repairs on the power lines or do you think a 5w30 blend is stout enough for this application?
Only if it is HPL oil.... yeah, I get it-going away now :(
 
For the short run you will be fine. Make sure that you check the oil level at each fueling, using 5w30 you can expect to burn some, if you only have that one quart on hand this could be problematic. At your next oil change you should move to a full synthetic 10w30.
 
I have a GP6500 Generac generator that is air cooling. My power will be out all day and the power company advised us to plan for an outage while upgrading in happening. I pulled my standby generac out and checked the oil. It was due for service so I fired it up to warn it and drained the oil out. It only holds 1 quart for oil. The book said SAE 30, 10w30 or full synthetic 5w30. All I had on had in those three was a quart of Chevron Supreme 5w30 synthetic blend. It’s supposed to be 77-78 degrees today any it’s going to run to keep my fridge and freezers going as well as the celling fans to keep it cool inside. Should I change it out after these repairs on the power lines or do you think a 5w30 blend is stout enough for this application?
I have to believe it will work for your application today. Longer term I would change it out.

Personally I use Farm & Fleet 5w40 HDEO in my OPE including my generator. My theory is if the oil shears it is still going to be a 30 weight oil.

Just my $0.02
 
You're fine, like they said, it might burn a little.

These things are fan cooled but always run 3600 RPM and with less of a load on it you may even be "over-cool."
 
I use Mobil 1 0W-40 FS European car formula full synthetic motor oil this has served my generator well in hot or cold running day and night for 100 hours straight changed the oil and ran it 24 more hours. that was one of the longest nonstop stretches. I still have the 25 year old generator and still use Mobil 1 0W-40 Euro.

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4W-30 is great for below freezing starts. A 10w-30 or Xw-40 would be better.
 
I went 11 days straight during Sandy with my BS powered 5600w Craftsman gen. Checked oil when oil check reminder came on. It had ST 5-30w synth. in it. Zero issues and only used a small amount of oil. Runs like a champ to this day with a few long running days under its belt using the same Warren made product.
Stationary Generac 10k unit at a weekend place runs on 0-30w M1 with no oil issues. It needs 0w bottom number for those -35F startups. 13 yrs and no issues. Oil changed via the service reminders.
 
The book said SAE 30, 10w30 or full synthetic 5w30. All I had on had in those three was a quart of Chevron Supreme 5w30 synthetic blend. It’s supposed to be 77-78 degrees today any it’s going to run to keep my fridge and freezers going as well as the celling fans to keep it cool inside. Should I change it out after these repairs on the power lines or do you think a 5w30 blend is stout enough for this application?
You will be fine - don't trouble yourself. Now if it were five days continuous above 90 degrees, I would want a 15w-40.
 
Am I wrong 0W-30, 5W-30, 10W-30 and SAE30 weight all meet the same high temperature SAE spec for SAE 30?

So in reality it shouldn't matter?

The ones with better cold pumpability tests may have more VII so may not last as long?

What Am I missing - they should be interchangeable no?
 
Am I wrong 0W-30, 5W-30, 10W-30 and SAE30 weight all meet the same high temperature SAE spec for SAE 30?

So in reality it shouldn't matter?

The ones with better cold pumpability tests may have more VII so may not last as long?

What Am I missing - they should be interchangeable no?
Yes they are the same grade. But there are high(er) HT/HS 30-grades which would provide better protection. HT/HS is a better metric anyway.
 
Yes they are the same grade. But there are high(er) HT/HS 30-grades which would provide better protection. HT/HS is a better metric anyway.
Realize all this is significantly well over my head....

I understand the concept of HT/HS, I know a member here calculated that value for some specific oils and published a chart, and I would agree Higher HT/HS is better based on what I have read.

What I don't know is how to figure out the HT/HS for a particular oil?
 
I used to be a small engine mechanic and I’ve read every engine manual available from about 2000-2015ish time frame.

Some engine manuals say to not use mineral 5W30 oil in air cooled equipment if it’s warmer than 40 degrees F outside. I tend to agree with this logic as I’ve seen mineral 5W30 just get absolutely hammered and disappear off of dipsticks very very quickly.

I live in Florida and would never ever use mineral 5w30 in air cooled equipment.

Generators run at constant 3600 rpm and suffer from fuel dilution and high load. Mineral 5W30 is barely adequate for the task, IF it’s kept full. You’ll need to add an ounce or three of oil every 8 hours.
 
I don't think regular API oils are stout enough and have gone too envirogreen for the OPE stress/carbs/fuel/temps....

For short term usage, use the oil that you have, shorten the change interval, and buy a more specific small-engine oil.

Walmart sells the synthetic oils from briggs oil and VP racing,

Your local honda smaller engine dealership(OPE or motorcycle) should have:

Local Kohler dealer has:

Some other options:

Any of the 5w40 HDEO or 0w40's are good options too. Don't forget the 15w40's and Ford's list of higher z/p oils for their powerstroke(in various grades/types). https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/products/motor-oil-diesel/productdetails?id=101

Get some HTHS, z/p SAPs, or both. Not all of us have perfect OPE maintenance intervals and said equipment might sit for months or years prior to a heavy workout. The better oil you use now might make a difference during an emergency, especially if you have to extend the interval.
 
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