Well, one of my changes with Amsoil 10W30 (a high 30W) with just over 5000 miles, the UOA was fine. Most people on the 3Si board seem to be running a 30W in lieu of a 40. Guess it may depend on driving style, quality of oil and climate. I don't have the valve tick that many of the owners complain of on the 3SI site.
3000GT VR4 twin turbo oil? GC or M1???
- Thread starter JHZR2
- Start date
- Status
Spector-
I don't have any valve lash adjuster tick either. Only every now and then, which is extremely common with these engines. I guess it depends on what weight you want to use.
I don't have any valve lash adjuster tick either. Only every now and then, which is extremely common with these engines. I guess it depends on what weight you want to use.
JHZR2
Staff member
Skortch:
In the 1994 book, there are two charts in one: the turbo and non turbo engines. Turbo engines have 10w-30 specced all temps, and 4w-30 in temps constantly cooler than 38F. The NON-turbo engine has a wide variety of oils that can be used, including the 40 wt oils, etc.
Thats form the 94 at least.
JMH
In the 1994 book, there are two charts in one: the turbo and non turbo engines. Turbo engines have 10w-30 specced all temps, and 4w-30 in temps constantly cooler than 38F. The NON-turbo engine has a wide variety of oils that can be used, including the 40 wt oils, etc.
Thats form the 94 at least.
JMH
JHZR2
Staff member
Im actually now considering trying M1 0w-40. Its A3/B3 rated, thins to a high 30wt and then re-thickens (so its on the light end of 40 wt), and has a robust additive package. Plus, I got it for 3.56/qt.
JMH
JMH
I've run mobil 1 15w-50 in my modified 89 toy. supra turbo since i got the car 10 years ago with 75k miles on it. The turbo has been pushing 2x the stock boost level since 80k, the turbo has never been rebuilt and still is within spec with 138k miles and 15 years of age. Not to shabby, I perfer the thicker oil due to the toyota 7m-gte inline 6's high volume low pressure oil system, with 10w-30 it barely makes 10 psi of pressure per 1k rpm, just a little piece of mind seeing the added oil pressure the engine is afforded with the heavier oil. With my exp. with turbo engines i'd find it tough to run a 30wt in any turbo motor, if your looking for fuel efficency you shouldn't have a turbo to begin with and i'am convinced i've been able to avoid rod knock(very common on high milage 7m's) due to using the heavier oil, which my personal polling data shows most rod knock cases the owners used 30wt. Also something else intersting is my original owners manual recommends 20w-50 for summertime temps, the replacement manuals and the later model manual 1990 and up only recommend 10w-30 even though nothing in the engine changed. Just my 2 cents.
You can do it, but I really wouldn't. Protection levels on moderate drain intervals are pretty much gonna be a wash.
If you want the best protection, I'd continue running Rotella for awhile. After you put some miles on it (clean it up, stabilize everything, gaskets working properly, etc...), I'd switch over to a high-quality PCEO synthetic lube, such as Mobil1, Redline, etc..
If the Rotella's doing you well, why mess with it before you do your planned upgrades?
Jelly,
Why change to a PCEO? Will say M1 0w-40 do a better job of protecting/stand up to heat better then the Rotella Syn 5W-40?
tec97,
I guess I can stay with the Rotella 5w-40. Just want my engine to have the best protection possible.
Why change to a PCEO? Will say M1 0w-40 do a better job of protecting/stand up to heat better then the Rotella Syn 5W-40?
tec97,
I guess I can stay with the Rotella 5w-40. Just want my engine to have the best protection possible.
I have a Mitzu Montero with the 3.5 DOHC engine. It should be the same as the 3000GT minus the turbos, right? Anyway my engine with 105,000 miles is consuming oil with M1 15-50 and still has the valve lash ticking. The oil pressure went up with the 15-50. Bonus! Oil consumtion did not go down much though. Still burning about 2-3 quarts with 8000 mile OCI. This board has recomended DELO 15-40 and Rotella 5-40 for my next change. I am hoping my consumtion goes down at this point. What solutions have you Mitzu men came up with for the valve clatter? I have heard using a different filter like AC Delco will help by flowing more oil pressure.
Sounds like an Auto-Rx clean would be the go if you are using 2/3 quarts top up oil IMO.
My friend has 135,000 miles on his 3000GT VR-4 with upgraded turbos and about 400+ Hps. Uses Mobil 1 10W-30 every 3,000 miles and it runs like a champ, hauls @ss let me say. I wish i had one of these bad boys !
Even my old 2.5L Turbo Dodge Shadow had a water-cooled turbo
If it was my 3KGT, I'd dump some GC in there and not worry a bit.
If it was my 3KGT, I'd dump some GC in there and not worry a bit.
Actually they were making water cooled turbos in 1986....and installing them on German Ford /Mercury Merkurs running 17 psi boost. 146 mph out of a 4 cylinder was not too shabby in 1986, and that was with the automatic! Too bad I didn't have any GC to put in it! But even with Mobil 1 it's still on the road.
My 89 Mazda 626 turbo (GT) has a watercooled turbo. 215,000kms original turbo and runs fine
Red Line will not shear by much if anything.
- Status
