friend of mine inherited a 1997 Century from his grandfather when he passed away in 2013, it only had 44k miles at the time, it now has 84k miles and runs excellent, despite finding brown sludge in the radiator on the last oil change I did on it. Seems like the intake gaskets that these engines are known for. How difficult of job is it those of you who have done it before? Looked on youtube it doesnt look bad at all and my buddy, who is not mechanically inclined whatsoever, has lately become interested in learning how to change his oil (I showed him how today) and fix things on his car. I figured this would be a good way to learn, I'll do most of the repair, but I'll let him get his hands dirty as well. Currently running Rotella T5 10W30 and a Fram Tough Guard 3387A. Looks clean as new through the fill hole.
3.1 Buick Century
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Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
He needs to quit driving that car now and get it fixed, Fel Pro gaskets only. Not a horrible job to do, but if he isn't mechanically inclined, he needs to just have a shop do it.
I'm more than capable of doing it. doesnt seem bad
Its not.
The worst part is all the push rods must be removed to get the intake off
20 year old car, you peeked into the radiator, saw some brown stuff and jump right into changing some parts that you've heard were bad on similar vehicles? I think I'd put a little more effort into confirming it were a problem before I tore into it.
Originally Posted By: Chris142
The worst part is all the push rods must be removed to get the intake off
puh too eee
Big Frown at engine work. But you all say it seems simple.
Just take your time and clean everything before it goes back on. Maybe oil or armor all parts, wiring, looming, plastic pieces as you dismantle and reinstall everything. Maybe you will get lucky and perform successful preventive maintenance while you are doing a repair.
I kind of like how GM doesn't built the entire vehicle to last forever. It gives you a chance to get in there and inspect and maintain a few parts you normally cannot reach.
The worst part is all the push rods must be removed to get the intake off
puh too eee
Big Frown at engine work. But you all say it seems simple.
Just take your time and clean everything before it goes back on. Maybe oil or armor all parts, wiring, looming, plastic pieces as you dismantle and reinstall everything. Maybe you will get lucky and perform successful preventive maintenance while you are doing a repair.
I kind of like how GM doesn't built the entire vehicle to last forever. It gives you a chance to get in there and inspect and maintain a few parts you normally cannot reach.
We had 2002 and 2003 Buick Centuries that each needed the lower intake manifold gasket replaced around 50k miles. It was not hard if you've studied the youtube videos and think you can handle the job, but was time consuming. Make sure you tag each connector on the electrical harness so you know where they go. I think some plugged onto the back side of the engine and it is easy to forget where exactly the connector is located if you don't have some descriptive notes. Take some pics to keep track of the proper routing of the harness/misc items and also take note of the order you remove items so you can reverse it when you reassemble.
Get the Lisle pushrod remover, part #48500, which makes that job easier and be sure to not mix the rods up since they are different lengths. As noted, use the Fel Pro gasket and have the proper torque wrench and specs.
It is also a good time to change the plugs and thermostat since you'll have better access to them.
Get the Lisle pushrod remover, part #48500, which makes that job easier and be sure to not mix the rods up since they are different lengths. As noted, use the Fel Pro gasket and have the proper torque wrench and specs.
It is also a good time to change the plugs and thermostat since you'll have better access to them.
Intake gaskets are not hard to do but a lot of these engines also need head gaskets when you find a radiator full of sludge.
I did one not to long ago, i used a pair of rebuilt heads that when all said a done were no more expensive than the machine work would have cost on the old ones, and a top of the line Fel-Pro gasket set.
I changed the thermostat, hoses, radiator and cap also, they were done. Its by no means a difficult job just bull work. All said and done it was about $800 in pars but the engine was sound otherwise and the car in decent shape so it was worth it to them instead of scrapping it and buying an unknown vehicle.
I did one not to long ago, i used a pair of rebuilt heads that when all said a done were no more expensive than the machine work would have cost on the old ones, and a top of the line Fel-Pro gasket set.
I changed the thermostat, hoses, radiator and cap also, they were done. Its by no means a difficult job just bull work. All said and done it was about $800 in pars but the engine was sound otherwise and the car in decent shape so it was worth it to them instead of scrapping it and buying an unknown vehicle.
Do a UOA to confirm coolant in oil before ripping into that project.
I always did the head gaskets if the intakes went on the 3.1 and 3.4 GM V6 engines. They also liked to go out pretty regular. Not as bad as the intakes, but they still would. And you are pretty much right there to do them.
Intake and head gaskets aside, those 3100 engines can last forever. Some had some issues with cams breaking on a couple years...that is what killed the engine in my 99 Monte Carlo LS.
Intake and head gaskets aside, those 3100 engines can last forever. Some had some issues with cams breaking on a couple years...that is what killed the engine in my 99 Monte Carlo LS.
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Originally Posted By: Virtuoso
Do a UOA to confirm coolant in oil before ripping into that project.
+1 save yourself the time, effort and money but confirming it is an issue.
Do a UOA to confirm coolant in oil before ripping into that project.
+1 save yourself the time, effort and money but confirming it is an issue.
Be sure the Fel Pro gaskets you get are what the call the "t" suffix gaskets that are the repair gaskets they call Perma Dry Plus gaskets that have rubber bonded to the metal gasket not the plastic with o ring type original gaskets
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