No it's not. A friend of mine who's a 26 year GM Master Tech said that #1, 90% of the original owners won't even own the truck when that INSPECTION interval comes and #2, it'll probably be raised to 200k. Also, even without doing one yet, he said that on a lift with a tech who knows what they're doing it's a 3 hour job. He also said that this isn't some cheap timing belt...it's constantly bathed in oil and is very robust. He said that under normal conditions it will EASILY see 300k before he'd expect an actual "failure". It's a "much ado about nothing" non issue for owners. And yes...I DO own one as well.
2020 3.0l duramax
- Thread starter MNTIM
- Start date
This all seems reasonable. As technology advances things last longer. It wasn't long ago the serpentine belt was changed often and now it goes 200k. All the emission issue still baffles me. We can put things on Mars but can't make emission systems that last or at least not have so many issues.
To me, and it is all about $$$$$ but if we had a superior fuel we wouldn't need all the after treatments. It is possible but it would cut into big oils pockets.
dnewton3
Staff member
A bit off topic, but seems that the conversation is trending in this direction ...
I take exception to that statement regarding the oil-pump belt topic in general, and the "inspection" concept in particular. What does one "inspect" on a oil-bathed rubber-polymer belt anyway? What are the criteria for the belt "inspection"? Do you pull it out and do a stretch test? Do you put it under a microscope and measure the tiny fracture lines for width and length? My opinion is that reality will reveal there's no "inspection"; it's a replacement. Even if there were an "inspection" process, who in their right mind would pay to have the tranny pulled, only the keep the original belt in there??? "Oh, Mr. Smith, we pulled the tranny and inspected the oil pump belt. We estimate you have another 40k miles before you have to come back and pay to have the trans pulled again to replace it. See you then!" Yeah ... right ...
Regardless of the potential for an exaggerated belt-life prognosis, any competent shop is going to say "It's been 150k miles and you're going to pay us to remove the trans for inspection; the cost of the belt is minor compared to the cost of labor. Just replace it. We recommend not waiting; you don't want to get stranded somewhere on a trip pulling the family with the RV this summer." Not one decent shop will ever say "It's been 150k miles. We say go ahead and ignore it; call us when it breaks and leaves you stuck roadside."
Bottom line: This is a replacement process, not an inspection process.
I guess for many, the 3.0L Dmax belt in question is such a concern because one needs two things which the average home-mechanic does not have:
1) a way to lift the vehicle up high enough to get the tranny out
2) a means of removing the trans safely
BITOGers are, for the most part and by their very nature, a group which likes to be "hands on". They like to turn wrenches. The 3.0L Dmax oil pump belt is concerning for them (and many others) because it is a unique challenge which they don't have the means to deal with. Any typical cam belt drive on the front of an engine, while at times buried under all manner of the accessory drive stuff, is still accessible and well within the requirements of average person's tool box. The F-150 diesel has a cam belt drive, but at least the common motivated weekend wrench jockey can accomplish this himself. This isn't limited to diesels, as we all know. The older 4.7L Tundras have belt cam drive; but that also can be done by a person competent with his tools in his garage. Etc ...
Sure - the first (or maybe even second) 3.0L Dmax owner may never have to change that oil pump belt. But SOMEONE, SOME DAY, will have to do so. And it's pretty much assured that only a select few owners will have the 2-post or 4-post lift and the tranny jack to do this task. And so the average guy like me who has the mechanical ability and tools to do so, still isn't going to invest $2000 in a car-lift just to change a $40 oil-pump belt. So I'd be inclined to just pass on the entire vehicle for that reason. In fact, what I suspect will happen is that any person who buys a "used" 3.0L Dmax will fall into one of two categories:
- they will be aware of the issue, and if it's near replacement, will knock down their offer to buy the used vehicle a commensurate amount equal to paying to have it done
- they will be ignorant of the issue, and they'll get really ticked off when they find out they have to pay for such an expensive procedure because it either failed and left them stranded, or they were made aware of the requirement AFTER buying it
This reminds me of the internal water pump issue on the 3.5L Ford Duratec. The engine itself is one of the nicest I've ever owned; smooth, quite, powerful and very reliable ... except for that darn pump. Many of us joke that Ford made the pump that way so that dealers would have something to work on, because the rest of the engine is like a piece of granite; unbreakable. Those of us who are aware of and understand the water pump issue realize it's a big cost lurking out there someday to change it. We can either save up for the cost, or dump the vehicle, (hopefully) before the pump fails, onto the next unsuspecting victim. How is this 3.0L Dmax oil pump belt topic any different? It's a difficult, deferred cost that will end up biting someone in the posterior at some point. Probably won't be the first or possibly even second buyer, but it will be someone, some day. At least with the 3.5L Duratec, I can do the pump in my garage at home; sure - it's tedious and overtly time intensive. But I don't have to raise my garage ceiling and buy an expensive multi-post lift to change my Duratec water pump at home.
I've got a buddy who owns one of these new Dmax trucks. When I mentioned the belt change to him, he gave me that What-The-Heck look, as if I were speaking French. He was totally unaware; the sales guy never mentioned that to him at the time of the purchase. (Probably because the sales guy is ignorant of the issue also). It might have soured the purchase had my friend been told "You gotta pay us to pull the trans some day to change the oil-pump belt." I'll bet a LOT of people fall into this category; they're totally unaware of the issue. (Same was fairly said about the 3.5L Duratec folks as well.)
I'm not saying this little Dmax is a bad engine; it seems to be well-liked and has a nice blend of power and efficiency. But let's not ignore the elephant lurking in the calendar many years out. Someone is going to get an expensive surprise at some point if they're unaware of the issue. And very, very few will be able to do this replacement at home. Those of us who like working on our own stuff have every right to complain about, or avoid all together, the 3.0L Dmax regarding this topic. Just because it will be a long way off, does not make it any less frustrating or bothersome. It's perfectly fine for some to say "I'll never own it that long; it's not a problem for me." But it will be a problem that has to be dealt with, by someone who's either spent a lot of money to have a very well equipped garage, or is willing to spend a lot of money at the dealer.
HiPowerShooter said:
I take exception to that statement regarding the oil-pump belt topic in general, and the "inspection" concept in particular. What does one "inspect" on a oil-bathed rubber-polymer belt anyway? What are the criteria for the belt "inspection"? Do you pull it out and do a stretch test? Do you put it under a microscope and measure the tiny fracture lines for width and length? My opinion is that reality will reveal there's no "inspection"; it's a replacement. Even if there were an "inspection" process, who in their right mind would pay to have the tranny pulled, only the keep the original belt in there??? "Oh, Mr. Smith, we pulled the tranny and inspected the oil pump belt. We estimate you have another 40k miles before you have to come back and pay to have the trans pulled again to replace it. See you then!" Yeah ... right ...
Regardless of the potential for an exaggerated belt-life prognosis, any competent shop is going to say "It's been 150k miles and you're going to pay us to remove the trans for inspection; the cost of the belt is minor compared to the cost of labor. Just replace it. We recommend not waiting; you don't want to get stranded somewhere on a trip pulling the family with the RV this summer." Not one decent shop will ever say "It's been 150k miles. We say go ahead and ignore it; call us when it breaks and leaves you stuck roadside."
Bottom line: This is a replacement process, not an inspection process.
I guess for many, the 3.0L Dmax belt in question is such a concern because one needs two things which the average home-mechanic does not have:
1) a way to lift the vehicle up high enough to get the tranny out
2) a means of removing the trans safely
BITOGers are, for the most part and by their very nature, a group which likes to be "hands on". They like to turn wrenches. The 3.0L Dmax oil pump belt is concerning for them (and many others) because it is a unique challenge which they don't have the means to deal with. Any typical cam belt drive on the front of an engine, while at times buried under all manner of the accessory drive stuff, is still accessible and well within the requirements of average person's tool box. The F-150 diesel has a cam belt drive, but at least the common motivated weekend wrench jockey can accomplish this himself. This isn't limited to diesels, as we all know. The older 4.7L Tundras have belt cam drive; but that also can be done by a person competent with his tools in his garage. Etc ...
Sure - the first (or maybe even second) 3.0L Dmax owner may never have to change that oil pump belt. But SOMEONE, SOME DAY, will have to do so. And it's pretty much assured that only a select few owners will have the 2-post or 4-post lift and the tranny jack to do this task. And so the average guy like me who has the mechanical ability and tools to do so, still isn't going to invest $2000 in a car-lift just to change a $40 oil-pump belt. So I'd be inclined to just pass on the entire vehicle for that reason. In fact, what I suspect will happen is that any person who buys a "used" 3.0L Dmax will fall into one of two categories:
- they will be aware of the issue, and if it's near replacement, will knock down their offer to buy the used vehicle a commensurate amount equal to paying to have it done
- they will be ignorant of the issue, and they'll get really ticked off when they find out they have to pay for such an expensive procedure because it either failed and left them stranded, or they were made aware of the requirement AFTER buying it
This reminds me of the internal water pump issue on the 3.5L Ford Duratec. The engine itself is one of the nicest I've ever owned; smooth, quite, powerful and very reliable ... except for that darn pump. Many of us joke that Ford made the pump that way so that dealers would have something to work on, because the rest of the engine is like a piece of granite; unbreakable. Those of us who are aware of and understand the water pump issue realize it's a big cost lurking out there someday to change it. We can either save up for the cost, or dump the vehicle, (hopefully) before the pump fails, onto the next unsuspecting victim. How is this 3.0L Dmax oil pump belt topic any different? It's a difficult, deferred cost that will end up biting someone in the posterior at some point. Probably won't be the first or possibly even second buyer, but it will be someone, some day. At least with the 3.5L Duratec, I can do the pump in my garage at home; sure - it's tedious and overtly time intensive. But I don't have to raise my garage ceiling and buy an expensive multi-post lift to change my Duratec water pump at home.
I've got a buddy who owns one of these new Dmax trucks. When I mentioned the belt change to him, he gave me that What-The-Heck look, as if I were speaking French. He was totally unaware; the sales guy never mentioned that to him at the time of the purchase. (Probably because the sales guy is ignorant of the issue also). It might have soured the purchase had my friend been told "You gotta pay us to pull the trans some day to change the oil-pump belt." I'll bet a LOT of people fall into this category; they're totally unaware of the issue. (Same was fairly said about the 3.5L Duratec folks as well.)
I'm not saying this little Dmax is a bad engine; it seems to be well-liked and has a nice blend of power and efficiency. But let's not ignore the elephant lurking in the calendar many years out. Someone is going to get an expensive surprise at some point if they're unaware of the issue. And very, very few will be able to do this replacement at home. Those of us who like working on our own stuff have every right to complain about, or avoid all together, the 3.0L Dmax regarding this topic. Just because it will be a long way off, does not make it any less frustrating or bothersome. It's perfectly fine for some to say "I'll never own it that long; it's not a problem for me." But it will be a problem that has to be dealt with, by someone who's either spent a lot of money to have a very well equipped garage, or is willing to spend a lot of money at the dealer.
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David you are spot on with this truck. I followed the development with great interest. Then I found out about the oil pump replacement at 150,000 miles and asked how much this would cost at the chevy dealer. They did not know or would not tell me. Also, the HPFP could implode into the fuel system and cost 8,000 to 10,000 dollars to repair. Maybe there is a maintenance program that a person could follow that would keep the HPFP from imploding such as an additive from Hot shots or some other company. At any rate, the costs "down the line" would be high. At some point, maybe GM will do to a gear or chain driven oil pump and then I would be interested in this truck. If in a few years things have not changed, Toyota Tundra here I come!
