2017 Mazda CX-5 HPL No- VII 10w20 Euro

[spasm3]

Oil run for 13 months, 6000 miles. Ran from Jan 30th 23 to April 27 of 24.

The first run in 2018 was M1 0w-30 after a typical short trip. My wife was driving about 6-7 miles each way to work. The oil level was rising on the stick.

She no longer does short trips, as she works from home now. This run was after a 15 mile drive , some at highway speeds.

Came straight home and on the ramps, for the sample, yet it still had 3.9 fuel dilution.

HPL no VII 5w-30 pcmo went in. Other than fuel dilution, looks like i could go another year , TBN 7.7

 

[JohnnyJohnson]

My Mazda CX5 is short tripped and I switched to Mobil 1 EP at 5000 for my first OCI at the next OCI 4900 miles my fuel dilution was less than .05. I'm not getting a noticeable rise in my oil level on the dipstick!

 

[spasm3]

I may do an even longer drive and see if fuel dilution persists.

 

[fantastic]

Nature of the beast probably no way out. Wear is low except the sudden low spike of lead but this is just one event. Unfortunately, even driving 50 miles to burn off fuel to show lower on the report isn't accurate of what the oil endured for the duration. That is really what you want to see is what has the oil been subjected to for the long term. Nature of the beast. Just keep the fuel dilution reasonable by coming up w/a timeline to replace it. Thanks for sharing this 10w-20 HPL UOA.

 

[spasm3]

Nature of the beast probably no way out. Wear is low except the sudden low spike of lead but this is just one event. Unfortunately, even driving 50 miles to burn off fuel to show lower on the report isn't accurate of what the oil endured for the duration. That is really what you want to see is what has the oil been subjected to for the long term. Nature of the beast. Just keep the fuel dilution reasonable by coming up w/a timeline to replace it. Thanks for sharing this 10w-20 HPL UOA.

None of the wear metals worry me at all. I'm wondering if i should go back to a less expensive oil and change more often as i was before.

This report makes me consider going back to 0w-40 and change every 2-3k.

 

[The Critic]

None of the wear metals worry me at all. I'm wondering if i should go back to a less expensive oil and change more often as i was before.

This report makes me consider going back to 0w-40 and change every 2-3k.

Correct.

I don’t see any advantage to the higher viscosity. It is unlikely that you’ll ever wear this engine out, so might as well get the extra fuel economy out of it.

 

[himemsys]

My Mazda CX5 is short tripped and I switched to Mobil 1 EP at 5000 for my first OCI at the next OCI 4900 miles my fuel dilution was less than .05.

The <0.05 on the report you attached is referring to Water, not Fuel. I don't think NAPA tests for fuel dilution on their oil reports (unless it's a special option you have to pay more for?)

 

[OneLonelyBurrito]

Overall the report look very good. I wouldn't be surprised is 3-4% fuel dilution is typical with these engines. My CX-50 was showing a little over 4% when I did a UOA. I also took my sample after roughly a 15mi drive and the oil was really only lukewarm. So I think these engine take quite a while to warm the oil up.

 

[vpr5703]

Overall the report look very good. I wouldn't be surprised is 3-4% fuel dilution is typical with these engines. My CX-50 was showing a little over 4% when I did a UOA. I also took my sample after roughly a 15mi drive and the oil was really only lukewarm. So I think these engine take quite a while to warm the oil up.

If you're willing to spend a little bit of cash you can get a good OB2 Bluetooth adapter and get the app OBDFusion. Then buy the Mazda addon for enhanced diagnostics. Our cars have an engine oil level and temp sensor that the app can read, so you can see how long the oil takes to come up to temp.

Plus it reads codes on (as far as I can tell) all the other modules that a traditional OBD2 scanner can't.

Worth it for sure.

 

[OneLonelyBurrito]

If you're willing to spend a little bit of cash you can get a good OB2 Bluetooth adapter and get the app OBDFusion. Then buy the Mazda addon for enhanced diagnostics. Our cars have an engine oil level and temp sensor that the app can read, so you can see how long the oil takes to come up to temp.

Plus it reads codes on (as far as I can tell) all the other modules that a traditional OBD2 scanner can't.

Worth it for sure.

I already have OBDLink MX+ with the Mazda add-on. But unfortunately, on 7th gen Mazda architecture vehicles (2019+ Mazda3, CX-30, CX-50) it can't read the oil temp from the level sender unit or the combination oil pressure/temperature sender. It can only pull the estimated oil temperature. So unless the estimated oil temperature uses the actually oil temperature sender to estimate, it can't currently pull true oil temperature.

When I had a CX-5 loaner, I hooked it up and was able to pull oil temperature from the level sender. It was generally pretty far behind the estimated temperature. When I took at 30min each way drive. The temperature from the level sender was only ~170 degrees, granted it was winter at the time. I don't think it was able to pull temperature from the oil temperature sender on the CX-5 either.

 

[vpr5703]

I already have OBDLink MX+ with the Mazda add-on. But unfortunately, on 7th gen Mazda architecture vehicles (2019+ Mazda3, CX-30, CX-50) it can't read the oil temp from the level sender unit or the combination oil pressure/temperature sender. It can only pull the estimated oil temperature. So unless the estimated oil temperature uses the actually oil temperature sender to estimate, it can't currently pull true oil temperature.

When I had a CX-5 loaner, I hooked it up and was able to pull oil temperature from the level sender. It was generally pretty far behind the estimated temperature. When I took at 30min each way drive. The temperature from the level sender was only ~170 degrees, granted it was winter at the time. I don't think it was able to pull temperature from the oil temperature sender on the CX-5 either.

I can confirm that OBDFusion w/ the Mazda add on can read oil temp and oil level sensors. I use it daily.

 

[OneLonelyBurrito]

I can confirm that OBDFusion w/ the Mazda add on can read oil temp and oil level sensors. I use it daily.

I will have to take a look at it with OBDFusion instead of OBDLink. I assumed they would have been the same since they are basically the same app made by the same company.

 

[vpr5703]

I will have to take a look at it with OBDFusion instead of OBDLink. I assumed they would have been the same since they are basically the same app made by the same company.

From what I've heard, the makers behind OBDFusion paid some OEMs to get the PIDs and decode the data stream. I note that the makers of OBDFusion also have professional-level tools as well, so it makes sense.

 

[RDY4WAR]

The report looks good. I don't give fuel dilution much attention until it exceeds 5% or the oil is diluted out of grade. Here, the oil is well within grade, the TBN is still high, relative oxidation is still very low, and wear metals figures look great. I see no reason you couldn't shoot for 10,000 miles next time.

Fuel dilution will fluctuate and may evaporate off a little more but probably not much. Gasoline's distillation curve is quite wide...

Regular 87 - Summer Blend (can vary some from batch to batch)

IBP - 95°F
5% - 118°F
10% - 128°F
20% - 139°F
30% - 148°F
40% - 155°F
50% - 198°F
60% - 233°F
70% - 257°F
80% - 282°F
90% - 318°F
95% - 338°F
FBP - 386°F

The 60% point is underlined as that's about the average peak operating oil temp for a commuter car. (without "spirited" driving) The heavy ends above that point will not evaporate out. Thus, fuel will continue to accumulate. The ~4% GC is from the remaining heavy ends that didn't evaporate out.

This is also why GDI dilutes so much. With port injection, those heavy ends have enough time to vaporize from residual cylinder heat and heat from the mixture compression. With GDI, the fuel doesn't have enough time to fully vaporize those heavy ends before ignition and thus they end up washing down into the crankcase. When the engine is cold, the lighter ends will as well, even with port injection.

 

[himemsys]

The report looks good. I don't give fuel dilution much attention until it exceeds 5% or the oil is diluted out of grade. Here, the oil is well within grade, the TBN is still high, relative oxidation is still very low, and wear metals figures look great. I see no reason you couldn't shoot for 10,000 miles next time.

Fuel dilution will fluctuate and may evaporate off a little more but probably not much. Gasoline's distillation curve is quite wide...

Regular 87 - Summer Blend (can vary some from batch to batch)

IBP - 95°F
5% - 118°F
10% - 128°F
20% - 139°F
30% - 148°F
40% - 155°F
50% - 198°F
60% - 233°F
70% - 257°F
80% - 282°F
90% - 318°F
95% - 338°F
FBP - 386°F

The 60% point is underlined as that's about the average peak operating oil temp for a commuter car. (without "spirited" driving) The heavy ends above that point will not evaporate out. Thus, fuel will continue to accumulate. The ~4% GC is from the remaining heavy ends that didn't evaporate out.

This is also why GDI dilutes so much. With port injection, those heavy ends have enough time to vaporize from residual cylinder heat and heat from the mixture compression. With GDI, the fuel doesn't have enough time to fully vaporize those heavy ends before ignition and thus they end up washing down into the crankcase. When the engine is cold, the lighter ends will as well, even with port injection.

What is IBP and FBP?

 

[RDY4WAR]

What is IBP and FBP?

Initial boiling point
Final boiling point

 

[spasm3]

The report looks good. I don't give fuel dilution much attention until it exceeds 5% or the oil is diluted out of grade. Here, the oil is well within grade, the TBN is still high, relative oxidation is still very low, and wear metals figures look great. I see no reason you couldn't shoot for 10,000 miles next time.

Fuel dilution will fluctuate and may evaporate off a little more but probably not much. Gasoline's distillation curve is quite wide...

Regular 87 - Summer Blend (can vary some from batch to batch)

IBP - 95°F
5% - 118°F
10% - 128°F
20% - 139°F
30% - 148°F
40% - 155°F
50% - 198°F
60% - 233°F
70% - 257°F
80% - 282°F
90% - 318°F
95% - 338°F
FBP - 386°F

The 60% point is underlined as that's about the average peak operating oil temp for a commuter car. (without "spirited" driving) The heavy ends above that point will not evaporate out. Thus, fuel will continue to accumulate. The ~4% GC is from the remaining heavy ends that didn't evaporate out.

This is also why GDI dilutes so much. With port injection, those heavy ends have enough time to vaporize from residual cylinder heat and heat from the mixture compression. With GDI, the fuel doesn't have enough time to fully vaporize those heavy ends before ignition and thus they end up washing down into the crankcase. When the engine is cold, the lighter ends will as well, even with port injection.

Thanks. I replaced the euro 10w20 no V-II with pcmo no V-II 5w-30. Perhaps the slightly higher viscosity oil will heat up faster? And help boil fuel off?

I do think the no V-II oils are a good choice for DI engines, if your climate is not too cold.

 

[RDY4WAR]

Thanks. I replaced the euro 10w20 no V-II with pcmo no V-II 5w-30. Perhaps the slightly higher viscosity oil will heat up faster? And help boil fuel off?

I do think the no V-II oils are a good choice for DI engines, if your climate is not too cold.

The difference in temp will be quite small, if even noticeable.

 

[hemioiler]

Anyone know why the AL is "high"? I've noticed that in my HPL no vii as well.

 

[Titan]

Anyone know why the AL is "high"? I've noticed that in my HPL no vii as well.

Because it isn't high?