I'd suggest do the minimum and don't remove the plenum being it is only 1 bolt that holds it in. If you do remove the plenum, suggest using the light strength purple thread-lock when you replace it, seems my Kia fasteners like to work themselves loose and no worry if you error on the side of under-torque to prevent breaking a fastener. Magnetic reach tool is always a nice helper here too. I haven't yet compared the similarities of the 3.3/3.5 motors, but if it is all the same I give it high rank for ease of maintenance. I started this thread for condensing resource to find information on the Kia / Hyundai 3.5 V6 because it was a little challenging to find information.
To which allows for the post-winter update, I put on about 3500 miles, went through 2 aftermarket water pumps only to replace the original being it showed no issue and hasn't leaked yet...Used the Sedona almost everyday except days I stayed home and when it needed the Oil Sending unit and water pump I did the work on week-ends when I didn't need to go anywhere.
The latest Oil Sending (Italy) unit l re-used leaked right away, so humbled by my lack of judgement, I replaced that with a WVE aftermarket which advertised "Dual sealed to prevent leaks" and has not leaked since replacement.
The left (driver) CV axle was replaced with a $30 used part from another 2012 Sedona (OEM) at the junkyard and has worked as hoped, I choose not to replace the seal being I had no idea the used part would be any better, but it doesn't click and I can drive without always being worried of CV failure. I removed the strut and tie-rod and left the lower ball joint attached being I had the strut out previously. A nylon wheel was used to clean the bearing surface and the spline that goes through the hub, which I should have used a wire wheel, had to turn the hub ~180 degrees as the axle was resisting going into the hub completely, yes I should have probobly cleaned it better, but I figured the sub-frame will likely rust before the axle gets changed again, if the used part works...it did, very well.
I'd buy another, preferable less rust and no check-engine lite for cam-crank correlation. The check-engine light went out during the cold weather and came back on when the weather warmed, so still thinking it's an electrical issue but I won't bother chasing it down for now. I'm looking forward to another winter as the heater is great, at ~3500 total invested I'm going for 5 winters as my goal. The ease of maintenance sells it for me. Used the Hart cordless tools, the 1/2 inch impact took off the lug nuts and the axle nut fairly easily...this is the original CX axle which looks about exactly like the replacement.
Going to attach other photo's, the last is the longer 6mm hex for removing the lower intake, the short one doesn't work nice with some of the fastener locations. To clarify, the pictured oil sending units are both from WVE boxes, the OEM packaging is only there for part number reference, so WVE part may be either style, or at least it was in my case, both from Rock Auto, though not to fault either, just to show examples.
To which allows for the post-winter update, I put on about 3500 miles, went through 2 aftermarket water pumps only to replace the original being it showed no issue and hasn't leaked yet...Used the Sedona almost everyday except days I stayed home and when it needed the Oil Sending unit and water pump I did the work on week-ends when I didn't need to go anywhere.
The latest Oil Sending (Italy) unit l re-used leaked right away, so humbled by my lack of judgement, I replaced that with a WVE aftermarket which advertised "Dual sealed to prevent leaks" and has not leaked since replacement.
The left (driver) CV axle was replaced with a $30 used part from another 2012 Sedona (OEM) at the junkyard and has worked as hoped, I choose not to replace the seal being I had no idea the used part would be any better, but it doesn't click and I can drive without always being worried of CV failure. I removed the strut and tie-rod and left the lower ball joint attached being I had the strut out previously. A nylon wheel was used to clean the bearing surface and the spline that goes through the hub, which I should have used a wire wheel, had to turn the hub ~180 degrees as the axle was resisting going into the hub completely, yes I should have probobly cleaned it better, but I figured the sub-frame will likely rust before the axle gets changed again, if the used part works...it did, very well.
I'd buy another, preferable less rust and no check-engine lite for cam-crank correlation. The check-engine light went out during the cold weather and came back on when the weather warmed, so still thinking it's an electrical issue but I won't bother chasing it down for now. I'm looking forward to another winter as the heater is great, at ~3500 total invested I'm going for 5 winters as my goal. The ease of maintenance sells it for me. Used the Hart cordless tools, the 1/2 inch impact took off the lug nuts and the axle nut fairly easily...this is the original CX axle which looks about exactly like the replacement.
Going to attach other photo's, the last is the longer 6mm hex for removing the lower intake, the short one doesn't work nice with some of the fastener locations. To clarify, the pictured oil sending units are both from WVE boxes, the OEM packaging is only there for part number reference, so WVE part may be either style, or at least it was in my case, both from Rock Auto, though not to fault either, just to show examples.
