2012 Honda Accord 160K miles

Maybe fixed in the later engines?
Mine was a July 2012 build.
No, it was never fully resolved. Engines from as early as 2008 and as late as 2016 are affected. There’s an updated actuator and even those will develop the rattle. I think the key is not running 0W20 and making sure the oil level is always full. One could argue the case for the expensive racing timing chain tensioners since the factory ones should be replaced more often than many. In fact I think I’m going to buy one of the racing tensioners, one of them saw is rebuildable, even.
 
No, it was never fully resolved. Engines from as early as 2008 and as late as 2016 are affected. There’s an updated actuator and even those will develop the rattle. I think the key is not running 0W20 and making sure the oil level is always full. One could argue the case for the expensive racing timing chain tensioners since the factory ones should be replaced more often than many. In fact I think I’m going to buy one of the racing tensioners, one of them saw is rebuildable, even.
Why not earlier engines?
My mother had an '03 that never had any issues.
 
It’s not that it would fail above a certain grade, it’s that depending on the climate, heavier grades may not circulate through the engine as well.

xW40 would be containing additives to make it perform like an SAE 40 at operating temperature, and like a thinner oil at start up. That’s the point of multi viscosity oils.

Oh, really, I have? And who are you? We’ve had no interaction that I can recall. Point me to the ‘gems’ you write about. Yes, the VTEC screens are very fine and can get caked up and block oil flow. It stands to reason that when something drastically heavier at temperature moves through them there could be issues.
So, the very fine VTEC screens block oil flow if the oil is too thick?

Does it also "stand to reason" that "drastically thicker" oil on start up will also cause "issues"?

Room temperature 0W20, not even cold, but room temperature, 0W20, is far thicker than a XW40 at operating temperature.

So, if the "drastically thicker" 40 causes issues, then the 0W20 will cause a lot more issues until the oil warms up.

Alternatively, there may be no problem at all from XW40 oil, since oil during warm up is much thicker.
 
So, the very fine VTEC screens block oil flow if the oil is too thick?

Does it also "stand to reason" that "drastically thicker" oil on start up will also cause "issues"?

Room temperature 0W20, not even cold, but room temperature, 0W20, is far thicker than a XW40 at operating temperature.

So, if the "drastically thicker" 40 causes issues, then the 0W20 will cause a lot more issues until the oil warms up.

Alternatively, there may be no problem at all from XW40 oil, since oil during warm up is much thicker.
Yes, if the screens are dirty or become dirty and then thicker oil runs through them, this can be a problem. If xW40/50 is not drastically thicker than 0W20 or 5W20/30, then what would be? Would xW30 not be a middle ground to have the benefits of both ends of the spectrum? It seems like you’re more focused on being condescending than adding anything of value.
 
Yes, if the screens are dirty or become dirty and then thicker oil runs through them, this can be a problem. If xW40/50 is not drastically thicker than 0W20 or 5W20/30, then what would be? Would xW30 not be a middle ground to have the benefits of both ends of the spectrum? It seems like you’re more focused on being condescending than adding anything of value.
Please just stop.
 
Yes, if the screens are dirty or become dirty and then thicker oil runs through them, this can be a problem. If xW40/50 is not drastically thicker than 0W20 or 5W20/30, then what would be? Would xW30 not be a middle ground to have the benefits of both ends of the spectrum? It seems like you’re more focused on being condescending than adding anything of value.
And you’re more focused on arguing than listening.

At room temperature, your 0W20 will be about 100cSt.

At engine operating temperature, the 0W40 will be about 12 cSt.

So, your argument is: a 12 cSt oil will be “too thick” but a 100 cSt oil will run fine.

The contrast will be higher with colder starts but the point is this: when cold, the oil you have now is far thicker than the oil you are worried about.

So, if your engine works when it is cold, then it will work if you use a slightly higher viscosity oil, too. It has to, or it would fail when cold.
 
Back
Top