2006 Mazda 3 2.3L, do I need an oil filter with an anti-drainback valve?

I guess after further research it's actually a Bypass valve, I heard someone refer to it as an ADBV/Check Valve before.
That's pretty radical!

Ok seen your edit that it appears to just be a bypass.
 
I have a 2006 Mazda 3, with the 2.3L engine, where you replace just the oil filter cartridge itself (i.e. it's not a spin on type).

I noticed on Rockauto that some of the fancier oil filters claim to have an anti-drainback valve to help prevent dry starts, which seems like a good idea. Although confusingly, some say in the description that they have the valve, but in the list of specs that they do not, e.g.: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=924852&cc=1432714&pt=5340&jsn=465.

On the other hand, the popular and highly lauded Fram Ultra, at least on Rockauto's site, says that it does not have an anti-drainback valve.

So, should I really worry about this? Or just get what seems like a good quality filter?

(Also as a side question, does anyone know if the Motorcraft filter is identical to OEM on the Mazda? I know the Mazda shares a lot of parts with Ford.)
Hi cb474,
I recommend looking up your application on the Fram site. They provide very good detail on what makes up the filter including if it has an anti-drain back valve. As others have said, this valve is typically built into the housing for cartridge applications. This makes the cartridge simpler to produce and reduces waste.
 
I discovered that I have what's probably about a fifteen year old OEM oil filter for my Mazda. It's been stored inside, though in the summer sometimes it's probably gotten up to 85 degrees inside (maybe even hotter if I'm out of town and not airing things out, during a heat wave). Anyway, it looks fine. Is it safe to use or likely to disintegrate?

Don't use it, but take some pictures for us :D
 
Here's a couple pictures.

Honestly, it looks totally fine to me and seems solid. I live in a hot, but dry environment, and it was always indoors. My old apartment sometimes, in a heat wave, got into the 90s (that place was an oven that could get hotter than it was outside). So I suppose that could deteriorate things? loosen the glue? But honetly, how hot do these things get attached to cars outside? How hot is the engine oil? If it's engine operating temperature, then that's like 180 to 200 degrees, right? If they can take that, can they really not take 15 years, occasionally heating up to 80 or 90 degrees?

That said, I ended up getting a Fram Titanium filter, which I just posted about in a different thread. Haven't done the oil change yet.
 

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Here's a couple pictures.

Honestly, it looks totally fine to me and seems solid. I live in a hot, but dry environment, and it was always indoors. My old apartment sometimes, in a heat wave, got into the 90s (that place was an oven that could get hotter than it was outside). So I suppose that could deteriorate things? loosen the glue? But honetly, how hot do these things get attached to cars outside? How hot is the engine oil? If it's engine operating temperature, then that's like 180 to 200 degrees, right? If they can take that, can they really not take 15 years, occasionally heating up to 80 or 90 degrees?

That said, I ended up getting a Fram Titanium filter, which I just posted about in a different thread. Haven't done the oil change yet.
I wouldn't use it, just to be on the safe side. New motor costs just a wee bit more than a new filter. Lol

I run Fram Ultra filters on my 07 Mazda3 (also in our 08 Accent), also a 2.3. No issues.
 
Thanks. What makes this filter so good, compared to the supposedly higher quality Fram Ultra or Tough Gaurd, etc.?
German engineering? Haha. I believe Mahle makes the OE filters for BMW and/or Mercedes, pretty sure I read that on here somewhere. Please correct me if I'm incorrect!
 
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