2004 sienna 10k oil recommendatiton

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Originally Posted By: DVE


I will be in New York and Quebec area, so not as "warm" as by the Gulf.


Your engine is water-cooled, and the water jacket is what it gets regulated and maintaining the engine's operational temperature (with thermostat, radiator and it's fan(s)).

Don't get too hype up on ambient temperature in area where you are travelling. It bears little meaning to a water-cooled engine and it's oil.

Pay attention to the vehicle load instead, for that's where the engine "see"s the load-related thermal load the most (and thus the oil temp, oil shear, etc.)

Q.
 
Originally Posted By: Quest
Originally Posted By: DVE


I will be in New York and Quebec area, so not as "warm" as by the Gulf.


Your engine is water-cooled, and the water jacket is what it gets regulated and maintaining the engine's operational temperature (with thermostat, radiator and it's fan(s)).

Don't get too hype up on ambient temperature in area where you are travelling. It bears little meaning to a water-cooled engine and it's oil.

Pay attention to the vehicle load instead, for that's where the engine "see"s the load-related thermal load the most (and thus the oil temp, oil shear, etc.)

Q.


Thank you for the explanation. I will not be loaded, and I will drive over some hills. I guess I am over thinking it. Any particular M1 I should go with? AFe/HM/EP?
 
I'm not a fan of high mileage oils if your engine is not consuming.

Regular M1 has been proven to last 10K miles here as evidenced by UOAs. Unless you're doing cold starts in -20F temperatures, I would rule out AFE ... and on a 10K mile trip, I'm guessing it's a lot of highway miles where the engine is up to temperature.

I'd spring for "regular" M1 or M1EP.
 
Originally Posted By: Miller88
I'm not a fan of high mileage oils if your engine is not consuming.

Regular M1 has been proven to last 10K miles here as evidenced by UOAs. Unless you're doing cold starts in -20F temperatures, I would rule out AFE ... and on a 10K mile trip, I'm guessing it's a lot of highway miles where the engine is up to temperature.

I'd spring for "regular" M1 or M1EP.

Alright, that sounds great. Thanks for all the info, I will go with the M1 in 5w-30.
Thanks a lot!

Also, just got off the phone with Toyota, and they told me that 0w-20, their glorious synthetic, will do 10k oci in my 2004 Sienna.
 
Originally Posted By: DVE
How about the weight then? 0-w20 or 5-w30?


Toyota specifies 5W-30 for your 2004 Sienna at all temps.
 
Originally Posted By: DVE
Originally Posted By: PandaBear
After warm up, 5w30 and 10w30 should be about the same in viscosity, and 10w30 usually are more shear stable and less volatility.

If you are going on long drive in warm climate for that long, 10w30 would have less evaporation over 5w30 and therefore less top off, I'd totally use 10w30 for this trip.


I will be in New York and Quebec area, so not as "warm" as by the Gulf.


If you are going to change it right before you head out on your trip you will be fine. That engine won't be working hard for those 10,000 miles. Put a good filter on such as a Napa Gold or something as good. I'd run Mobil 1 - 5W-30 or PP 5W-30.

By the way the snow is all gone in the parts of Canada and NY State that you will be visiting at this time of the year. ;-P

Regards, JC.
 
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Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: DVE
How about the weight then? 0-w20 or 5-w30?


Toyota specifies 5W-30 for your 2004 Sienna at all temps.

Thank you, the oil weights are still confusing to me.
 
Originally Posted By: JC1
Originally Posted By: DVE
Originally Posted By: PandaBear
After warm up, 5w30 and 10w30 should be about the same in viscosity, and 10w30 usually are more shear stable and less volatility.

If you are going on long drive in warm climate for that long, 10w30 would have less evaporation over 5w30 and therefore less top off, I'd totally use 10w30 for this trip.


I will be in New York and Quebec area, so not as "warm" as by the Gulf.


If you are going to change it right before you head out on your trip you will be fine. That engine won't be working hard for those 10,000 miles. Put a good filter on such as a Napa Gold or something as good. I'd run Mobil 1 - 5W-30 or PP 5W-30.

By the way the snow is all gone in the parts of Canada and NY State that you will be visiting at this time of the year. ;-P

Regards, JC.


It was pretty cold here this morning, 54F :p. Thanks for the weather update, last time I drove in snow was a while ago. I will be using Fram Ultra Guard.
 
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Why change from the synpower? The 0w20 in my Honda and formerly in the Forester ran MUCH MUCH cleaner than M1 or QSUD.
I suppose the new SOPUS premium stuff is a guaranteed "real" synthetic" - whatever that buys you: more noise, consistent power, torque and cleanliness, fall off the cliff at end of life, poorer small motion lubricity (per supposed FUJI H.I. in house memo on lubricants in EJ255/family powertrains) T
The Valvoline 0w20 GF5 in the Honda poured almost clear - and had no moly stink. Interesting to know what that stuff is made of. Not the absolute finest low cold start vis, IMO.

DOs Motul make a 8100 0w20 yet?

Right now, I would try the Ultra 5w20 if you don't stay with the valvoline.
My wife says the Forester likes it and its quiet. I haven't looked for varnishing on the VCT housing yet - too young in the sump, but I haven't heard any T.C-T noise lately. The CUVAGON had a (purported) lifter tick, dont know if that's vanished.

At least you have many good choices!
smile.gif




Arco: Did you feel the Valvoline 0w20 was thicker on cold start up or are you going by the PDS?
 
Just "felt" that way during the first 10 mins compared to the QSGB 5W! Nothing scientific.
Surprising, but in PQIA tests, QSGB 5w20 bested Mobil Super by 1500cP at -30C and bettered all the majors by at least 1000cP, IIRC, and was just a tick higher (~100cP) than M1 synthetic 5w30. Not too shabby for a bargain priced "synthetic" in green dino clothing.
 
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