2004 sienna 10k oil recommendatiton

[DVE]

A trip came up, and I am looking at 8 to 10k miles. I'd really hate to change oil on the road, kind of wonder how others do it. What would be oil that could easily do 10k? The van has just about 105k on it (acquired at 98k) had maxlife and now Valvoline SynPower in it. The filter will be Fram Ultra Guard just because I bought one a while back.
I have Walmart/AAP/NAPA/AutoZone nearby, so I can get a huge variety of oils. I know that PP and PU have the $1 off going on, but that is not a deciding factor to me.

 

[901Memphis]

If you want a safety net try Castrol Edge or Mobil 1 EP. They have higher TBN retention for longer runs, although I'm pretty sure you can do 10k on regular Mobil 1 in that engine.

 

[dblshock]

any api 5/20 or 5/30.. imo.

 

[DVE]

Thank you, and yes it is V6, but not the sludge monster. It is 3MZ FE, 2nd generation Sienna. I was looking at Mobil 1 High Mileage, would that have any benefit? Also, Toyota back specced the oil weights, to make it more harder for me to decide.

 

[pbm]

Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
If you want a safety net try Castrol Edge or Mobil 1 EP. They have higher TBN retention for longer runs, although I'm pretty sure you can do 10k on regular Mobil 1 in that engine.


I agree that these 2 oils show very good long OCI capability but in reality any full syn. should suffice since this is a highway run (no short tripping, few cold starts etc...)...

 

[Quest]

highway is easy on the engine and the oil within (less moisture/fuel contamination due to consistently high temperature and relatively light if not consistent load)...so motor oil would last considerably longer.

You shall have no issues running syn oil past 10k OCI; in fact: I would run PYB or QStateGreen close to 10K given your situation.

Q.

 

[Quest]

Note: engine isn't gonna go ka-boom the moment it hits 10K on OCI...

All it ever needs is a good, clean, if not functional PCV valve to keep the oil contamination in-check.

Q.

 

[SwampSurvivor]

Check the PCV valve and run M1 or M1EP.

 

[DVE]

Thank you for all the responses so far, very thankful for such quick help. PCV Valve is on my To Do list before I leave. Since Castrol and Mobil1 are the same or within $1 difference at evilmart, any difference?
How about the weight then? 0-w20 or 5-w30?

 

[smithph]

Originally Posted By: DVE
Thank you, and yes it is V6, but not the sludge monster. It is 3MZ FE, 2nd generation Sienna. I was looking at Mobil 1 High Mileage, would that have any benefit? Also, Toyota back specced the oil weights, to make it more harder for me to decide.


When Toyota backspec'd it to include 5w30, 5w-20, and 0w-20 did they also up the OCI from 5K to 10K if you use TGMO 0w20?

 

[GutsyGecko]

I would use the 5w-30.

 

[Phishin]

With the warm weather and all the miles coming in one big lump, use just about anything you want.

If it was me, I'd run M1 or PU 10w30 and a can of LM MoS2.

 

[PandaBear]

After warm up, 5w30 and 10w30 should be about the same in viscosity, and 10w30 usually are more shear stable and less volatility.

If you are going on long drive in warm climate for that long, 10w30 would have less evaporation over 5w30 and therefore less top off, I'd totally use 10w30 for this trip.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Why change from the synpower? The 0w20 in my Honda and formerly in the Forester ran MUCH MUCH cleaner than M1 or QSUD.
I suppose the new SOPUS premium stuff is a guaranteed "real" synthetic" - whatever that buys you: more noise, consistent power, torque and cleanliness, fall off the cliff at end of life, poorer small motion lubricity (per supposed FUJI H.I. in house memo on lubricants in EJ255/family powertrains) T
The Valvoline 0w20 GF5 in the Honda poured almost clear - and had no moly stink. Interesting to know what that stuff is made of. Not the absolute finest low cold start vis, IMO.

DOs Motul make a 8100 0w20 yet?

Right now, I would try the Ultra 5w20 if you don't stay with the valvoline.
My wife says the Forester likes it and its quiet. I haven't looked for varnishing on the VCT housing yet - too young in the sump, but I haven't heard any T.C-T noise lately. The CUVAGON had a (purported) lifter tick, dont know if that's vanished.

At least you have many good choices!

 

[DVE]

Originally Posted By: smithph
Originally Posted By: DVE
Thank you, and yes it is V6, but not the sludge monster. It is 3MZ FE, 2nd generation Sienna. I was looking at Mobil 1 High Mileage, would that have any benefit? Also, Toyota back specced the oil weights, to make it more harder for me to decide.


When Toyota backspec'd it to include 5w30, 5w-20, and 0w-20 did they also up the OCI from 5K to 10K if you use TGMO 0w20?

I looked online, but could not find anything about the extension of oci; would be nice though.

 

[gregk24]

If your going to use a 20 weight, might as well use TGMO 0w20. If you want to use a 30 weight, M1 EP or Castrol EP 5w30 are good choices

 

[DVE]

Originally Posted By: PandaBear
After warm up, 5w30 and 10w30 should be about the same in viscosity, and 10w30 usually are more shear stable and less volatility.

If you are going on long drive in warm climate for that long, 10w30 would have less evaporation over 5w30 and therefore less top off, I'd totally use 10w30 for this trip.


I will be in New York and Quebec area, so not as "warm" as by the Gulf.

 

[DVE]

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Why change from the synpower? The 0w20 in my Honda and formerly in the Forester ran MUCH MUCH cleaner than M1 or QSUD.
I suppose the new SOPUS premium stuff is a guaranteed "real" synthetic" - whatever that buys you: more noise, consistent power, torque and cleanliness, fall off the cliff at end of life, poorer small motion lubricity (per supposed FUJI H.I. in house memo on lubricants in EJ255/family powertrains) T
The Valvoline 0w20 GF5 in the Honda poured almost clear - and had no moly stink. Interesting to know what that stuff is made of. Not the absolute finest low cold start vis, IMO.

DOs Motul make a 8100 0w20 yet?

Right now, I would try the Ultra 5w20 if you don't stay with the valvoline.
My wife says the Forester likes it and its quiet. I haven't looked for varnishing on the VCT housing yet - too young in the sump, but I haven't heard any T.C-T noise lately. The CUVAGON had a (purported) lifter tick, dont know if that's vanished.

At least you have many good choices!

I have few jugs of SynPower, just wanted an extra peace of mind by going with the "more known to go 10k" oils.

 

[gfh77665]

Originally Posted By: PandaBear
After warm up, 5w30 and 10w30 should be about the same in viscosity, and 10w30 usually are more shear stable and less volatility.

If you are going on long drive in warm climate for that long, 10w30 would have less evaporation over 5w30 and therefore less top off, I'd totally use 10w30 for this trip.


This^^^, and the post from Phishin just above it, are right on.

Useing a 10-30 syn, like Mobil 1 or Mobil 1 EP would be perfect here.

 

[tig1]

Use M1 in whatever wt. your engine requires. No problems doing 10K at all.