I have 340k and am using Chevron Supreme 5W30 with 5k OCI. Last oil change used 1.75 quarts of oil. I'm not a fan of high mileage oils with seal conditioners. Is there another oil that would reduce oil consumption? Thanks!
2003 Toyota Echo with increasing oil consumption
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Sorry, what is AT-205?
Originally Posted By: carguy
Sorry, what is AT-205?
http://www.amazon.com/ATP-AT-205-Re-Seal-Stops-Bottle/dp/B000NVW1LM
Sorry, what is AT-205?
http://www.amazon.com/ATP-AT-205-Re-Seal-Stops-Bottle/dp/B000NVW1LM
If the oil consumption goes down by using a thicker oil, then it's most likely your piston rings(D16Y7 piston rings seem to be the culprit), but if it doesn't reduce oil consumption then your oil return holes in the pistons are fully clogged.
re-drilling oil return holes and adding additional ones and the replacement of piston rings & valve seals will solve any oil consumption issues.
I do stock rebuilds, mostly Toyota engines, 1zz-fe, 2az-fe, & 2zz-ge, the piston rings were never the culprit, the oil return holes being fully clogged was the only reason(on those engines, the pistons seem to run at higher then normal temperature), and also changing the valve seals helped too.
We saw a 01 corolla, where the oil return holes were fully open at 115k miles because the original owner always followed the Toyota recommended interval for both miles and time.
Also a 04 celica gt where the first owner always used full synthetics the whole life of the car and the engine was perfectly, I mean perfectly clean at 145k miles, the second owner, 1000 miles into ownership ran it through water and bent one of the piston rods, only reason we had to rebuild the whole motor, which again was in immaculate condition.
re-drilling oil return holes and adding additional ones and the replacement of piston rings & valve seals will solve any oil consumption issues.
I do stock rebuilds, mostly Toyota engines, 1zz-fe, 2az-fe, & 2zz-ge, the piston rings were never the culprit, the oil return holes being fully clogged was the only reason(on those engines, the pistons seem to run at higher then normal temperature), and also changing the valve seals helped too.
We saw a 01 corolla, where the oil return holes were fully open at 115k miles because the original owner always followed the Toyota recommended interval for both miles and time.
Also a 04 celica gt where the first owner always used full synthetics the whole life of the car and the engine was perfectly, I mean perfectly clean at 145k miles, the second owner, 1000 miles into ownership ran it through water and bent one of the piston rods, only reason we had to rebuild the whole motor, which again was in immaculate condition.
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Try Rotella T5 10W-30, lots of detergents...
In Montana?? Verses going to a thicker oil in winter I'd think the HM oil would be by far the lesser evil...
I use M-1 HM in in my '98 Grand Marquis that has 70K mi of mostly short trips in town, has decreased consumption from 2.5K mi qt to approx 5K mi...
All this said, even two qt in 5K mi isn't horrible, especially considering the milage...
I use M-1 HM in in my '98 Grand Marquis that has 70K mi of mostly short trips in town, has decreased consumption from 2.5K mi qt to approx 5K mi...
All this said, even two qt in 5K mi isn't horrible, especially considering the milage...
Just curious, if the oil return holes being fully clogged was the only reason,would Kreen or MMO possibly solve the problem over time.
Originally Posted By: mattwithcats
Try Rotella T5 10W-30, lots of detergents...
+1 or 15w40
Try Rotella T5 10W-30, lots of detergents...
+1 or 15w40
Originally Posted By: Toaster_Jer
Just curious, if the oil return holes being fully clogged was the only reason,would Kreen or MMO possibly solve the problem over time.
If they were fully clogged, it'd be lucky to get 600-800 mi quart...
Always solutions for problems whether they exist or not...
Just curious, if the oil return holes being fully clogged was the only reason,would Kreen or MMO possibly solve the problem over time.
If they were fully clogged, it'd be lucky to get 600-800 mi quart...
Always solutions for problems whether they exist or not...
The engine has no external leaks. It's been highway driven since I've had it the past 4.5 years. I bought it with 150k and used Mobil 1 SM with no consumption. Since that was discontinued the oil consumption has started and kept increasing.
Originally Posted By: carguy
The engine has no external leaks. It's been highway driven since I've had it the past 4.5 years. I bought it with 150k and used Mobil 1 SM with no consumption. Since that was discontinued the oil consumption has started and kept increasing.
I'd draw an inference from that.
The engine has no external leaks. It's been highway driven since I've had it the past 4.5 years. I bought it with 150k and used Mobil 1 SM with no consumption. Since that was discontinued the oil consumption has started and kept increasing.
I'd draw an inference from that.
FYI; I've tried numerous things to reduce my consumption.
15w-40, 20w-50; schaeffers 132, MoS2, BG109 e.g.
With respect to celica's comments, rebuilds @ 150K miles might not be indicative of what a 380K mile car might have seen. My consumption started @ 170K and although I haven't cracked the motor open, it had always gotten premium syn oil up to that point.
Maybe someone else can chime in, but I've come to the conclusion that engines 'just wear out' maybe with less tension on the rings due to "thousands" of heat/cooling cycles et al and can't be tracked to one particular 'situation' in the motor other than 380K miles and a cumulative effect on the entire motor.
I'm in the 1qt / 1K mile range now, and with Citgo on sale regularly for $1.50/qt, i just keep pouring it in.
15w-40, 20w-50; schaeffers 132, MoS2, BG109 e.g.
With respect to celica's comments, rebuilds @ 150K miles might not be indicative of what a 380K mile car might have seen. My consumption started @ 170K and although I haven't cracked the motor open, it had always gotten premium syn oil up to that point.
Maybe someone else can chime in, but I've come to the conclusion that engines 'just wear out' maybe with less tension on the rings due to "thousands" of heat/cooling cycles et al and can't be tracked to one particular 'situation' in the motor other than 380K miles and a cumulative effect on the entire motor.
I'm in the 1qt / 1K mile range now, and with Citgo on sale regularly for $1.50/qt, i just keep pouring it in.
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I wouldn't even know where to buy Citgo oil for that price.
Originally Posted By: Doog
Originally Posted By: mattwithcats
Try Rotella T5 10W-30, lots of detergents...
+1 or 15w40
+2
Originally Posted By: mattwithcats
Try Rotella T5 10W-30, lots of detergents...
+1 or 15w40
+2
Originally Posted By: carguy
I wouldn't even know where to buy Citgo oil for that price.
That wasn't really the point of my post.
You can try a lot of things; in the end you are trying to solve a $6/OCI problem.
I wouldn't even know where to buy Citgo oil for that price.
That wasn't really the point of my post.
You can try a lot of things; in the end you are trying to solve a $6/OCI problem.
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10W-30 is too thin and won't help. In my experience, 15W-40 consumption was 2/5 of 5W-30 before I replaced my valve-stem oil seals -- then zero consumption even with 0W-20.
Originally Posted By: Toaster_Jer
Just curious, if the oil return holes being fully clogged was the only reason,would Kreen or MMO possibly solve the problem over time.
I never tried anything other then just a simple rebuild and then using certified oils from then on.
The clogged oil return holes, completely carbon up any oil left in the ring lands, and the ring lands need to be cleaned, people suggest using "oil rings", I have found Chem Dip to works Wonders, in 6 hours at 70-100 degrees, the pistons come out looking new.
Just curious, if the oil return holes being fully clogged was the only reason,would Kreen or MMO possibly solve the problem over time.
I never tried anything other then just a simple rebuild and then using certified oils from then on.
The clogged oil return holes, completely carbon up any oil left in the ring lands, and the ring lands need to be cleaned, people suggest using "oil rings", I have found Chem Dip to works Wonders, in 6 hours at 70-100 degrees, the pistons come out looking new.
Originally Posted By: TFB1
Originally Posted By: Toaster_Jer
Just curious, if the oil return holes being fully clogged was the only reason,would Kreen or MMO possibly solve the problem over time.
If they were fully clogged, it'd be lucky to get 600-800 mi quart...
very true, I have owned a few 1zz-fes that were burning 1 quart per 100 miles, a simple rebuild, no more oil burning, and engine runs perfectly, this engine only had 129k at that point, lack of maintenance from previous owners led to it's early oil burning issue.
Originally Posted By: Toaster_Jer
Just curious, if the oil return holes being fully clogged was the only reason,would Kreen or MMO possibly solve the problem over time.
If they were fully clogged, it'd be lucky to get 600-800 mi quart...
very true, I have owned a few 1zz-fes that were burning 1 quart per 100 miles, a simple rebuild, no more oil burning, and engine runs perfectly, this engine only had 129k at that point, lack of maintenance from previous owners led to it's early oil burning issue.
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