2000 Honda Accord V6 misfiring

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Im sure its not the oil but ever since I changed over to Mobil 1 EP 5W30 oil and M104 filter, the car has been misfiring like crazy when stuck in traffic. This has never happened before. It keeps throwing a 1399 code which shows up as misfiring on all cylinders in Alldata. Once it starts misfiring we have to let the car sit for 1 hour before we can restart it and drive again. Very strange issue. The car ran on Castrol GTX 5W30 its entire life with Honda filters until now.

Anyone else experienced this in their Honda? Your advice would be appreciated. Never had a problem like this in all the years we have owned a Honda. The note in Alldata also said that misfiring is caused by winter fuel usually affecting cars on the East Coast but I am on the West Coast.
 
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Thanks for the replies guys. I am using Denso spark plug wires and NGK spark plugs. Only use Bosch plugs for my German cars.

I called the dealer about valve adjustment and they wanted $980.00 to do it! Dealer = Stealer. This car has never had a valve adjustment. On the 3rd transmission. 3 defective one. Getting it replaced right now too from Honda USA....still under warranty and its a model year 2000.

Thanks for the link Sayjac. I dont think its coils tho. As all 6 cylinders misfire and throw codes when its hot. I ve dumped Octane booster in and it decreased the rate at which it misfires but still does it when you are stuck in traffic. Im leaning on valve adjustment. Is it hard to do?

It just passed smog as this is my bros car in CA, so I dont think its emission related.

Forgot to mention that the car has 138,000 miles on it
 
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Did you change spark plugs,wires,or do any motor work prior to the misfiring. Try a different gas station.
 
Does this 2000 have coil on ignition or distributor cap. It sounds ignition related because it runs bad hot and not cold.
 
Got new spark plugs and wires. Gas is Chevron or Shell 87 octane. I just googled it and it looks like a ton of problems with the V4 and V6 engines from Honda with tight valves. Honda suggests adjusting them every 105K miles but consensus seems to be every 30K miles so you dont get crashed exhaust valves or destroyed catalytic converters because of leaky exhaust valves.

It doesnt look too hard to adjust. I will do it when I get the car back from dealer for the tranny issue. There is a crank hole with numbers to show which cylinder it is on and then you adjust using a flat heat and wrench and a feeler gauge. Stupid manual never mentioned any thing of this sort as part of routine maintenance.

Honestly I dont know if it has coil on ignition or distributor cap because I dont have the car in front of me. I only know about my own car very well.
 
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Valves don't go out all of a sudden.
So an instant problem is not likely a valve setting .
A vacuum line, manifold connection, electrical connection, or ignition component may have been disturbed.
 
how is your ingition coil setup? if they are individual per cylinder then its probably not that. If you have one then it could very well be that.
 
This REALLY sounds like valves are too tight, as it does it worse once warm.

OR extremely excessive carbon buildup in the cylinders.

or arcing between plug wires.

or, if it's using a distributor, a cracked rotor

does the tach jump around? that could suggest a crank or cam position sensor.

M
 
According to various internet sources, 2000 Accord V6s had a distributor-based ignition. 2001 and onward V6s and 2003 and onward I4s had COP ignition.
 
Is Denso the oem Honda spec wire? Who did the sp and wire work? Maybe you've got a crossed wire? Hope this helps.
 
Originally Posted By: beast3300
Does this 2000 have coil on ignition or distributor cap. It sounds ignition related because it runs bad hot and not cold.
According to Honda Parts, 2000 V6 does use coil packs. I'm still leaning with those pointing to ignition, coil packs, plugs or wires. But, if it is the valves, what the dealer wants to adjust them is OUTRAGEOUS, ie., giving new meaning to the term stealership. What about an independent shop?

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is this engine vtec? could complicate valve work. the non-vtec motors need a narrow-tipped gap tool, and you use a gauge that's 1/2 the actual gap maybe (?) based on how it's set up.

price is nuts.... not sure why so high.

1. see if its a distributor. easy to tell. if so, change cap and rotor and wires.

2. run a cpl tanks of fuel cleaner, full doses of techron to clean carbon.

3. if no change, get into the valves. the procedure is pretty easy, with dissassembly being the hardest part.

the crv's were notorious for valve stretch and damage. the the valves are too tight, they WILL be destroyed. but i've not heard of it in the v6.
 
The Honda V6 will spew out multiple cylinder misfire when one coil goes bad. Since it is misfiring right now, it should be trivial to find which coil.

Disconnect wire to each cylinder one at a time. When the engine does NOT become worse, you have found the culprit. Get new coil and your problems will go away.

My wife (and my brother) fixed this on the road while I was directing over the cellphone :)

- Vikas
 
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