2 cycle oil for engine flush??

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tigershark1976

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sometime back, I hv posted a topic on soaking the engine with kerosene overnight and drain it off on the next day to clean up the engine (without firing the engine at all)... Some members was commenting that might be a bad idea...

Im not really into getting engine flushing chemicals as i believe these chemicals are just plain kerosene packed in a nice tin... Might as well getting some kerosene at harwarestore at a friction of the engine flush price...

I was thinking for the alternative way that could be safer and more efficient... There are people flushing their engine with ATF, which could be safer than Kerosene but problem with ATF is, the detergent in the ATF is so low that it might be a better idea getting some 0W20 engine oil to and run in with a shorter OCI...

Undestand that 2 cycle oil is one of the best oil in lubrication (just imagine, it has to be efficient enough to lubricate the piston and rings b4 it burns off as exhaust fume)

Good quality 2 cycle oil with TCW3 and Jaso FD rating is also known to be very effective in clearing the carbon within the combustion chamber (again, imagine that the 2 cycle oil has to do its job before it burned off in the matter of miliseconds..)


If 2 cycle oil is mixed with engine oil at the ratio of... say 1:3 and run it for a thousand miles before oil change... will this efficient enough to "flush" the engine?

Any comment is welcome... afterall, its just my wild idea...
 
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I'd say you'd be asking for trouble. TCW3 is designed to be added to gasoline to lubricate and burn off, as the engine cycles. I'd think you would ruin an engine in fairly short order, or create excessive wear and have problems later on. I don't ever recall reading about it here on Bitog.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I'd say you'd be asking for trouble. TCW3 is designed to be added to gasoline to lubricate and burn off, as the engine cycles. I'd think you would ruin an engine in fairly short order, or create excessive wear and have problems later on. I don't ever recall reading about it here on Bitog.


hahaha... thats Y i said its a wild idea! I myself never came across anyone did it b4 lol.

However, the wild idea is based in the charateristic of the 2 cycle oil, its ability of lubrication and cleaning capability... as mentioned, by looking at how the 2 cycle oil works, it should be more superior than engine oil in terms of lubrication... so, ur statement of "ruin an engine in fairly short order, or create excessive wear" may not occur... maybe you can eleborate/ explain further on your statement above?

Btw, any comment is welcome, as i said, nobody tried it and this wild idea is for discussion and to expore the most efficient + effective way to keep the engine in tip top condition...
 
My statement is based on opinion, no facts since I haven't tried it, nor do I know anyone who has tried it. 1000 miles IMO is a long time for an experiment. I used words like [I think] for a reason. LOL

You could be onto something! I'm a chicken when it comes to things like this. LOL

Is there anyway to get Marvel Mystery Oil? Can a US friend send some? How about a good flush? Is Amsoil available in Singapore?
 
Yah, i finally found MMO at Caltex petrol station but the price is crazy! US$12.86/16 oz bottle... Amsoil engine flush is slightly cheaper at US8.57/16oz bottle...

Wanted to use something cheaper yet effective, thats y I came out with this wild idea... I was thinking, If MMO could be use as engine flush, Y not 2 cycle oil? afterall, both are design to be burn in the 1st place.
 
I spoke with an oldtimer many years ago, who after every oil change would fill the crankcase with kerosene and run the engine for several miniutes. Then drain and refill with new oil; said the oil would stay clear for months. Common practice back-in-the day I am told.

Using 2-stroke oil would do not harm, its is usually a high quality base stock. 2-stroke oil is very expensive to use as a flush. But why are we trying to do this? If your engine is dirty, just use a synthetic, and over time it will clean up. We are way too anal about dirty engies here, the moving parts collect little dirt/sludge. It's an internal combustion engine, its going to get a little dirty...
 
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Originally Posted By: demarpaint
That's expensive, Walmart sells MMO qts for under $4.00 here in the US.

You might get more hits posting your question again here:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=postlist&Board=23&page=1

More people read that forum. Good luck!


haiz... Thats Y im still hesitated to get it... its 6 times of the price in US!


and btw, thanks for the advise, will try my luck in Maintainance section as well!
 
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Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Pls do not double post - I'll move this thread if you like....


hey, thanks if you could kindly help...
 
Why not just try some mineral spirits or "white spirit" or Stoddard solvent? That's pretty cheap, and 66% of MMO. I'd add a quart of that or kerosene.

I wouldn't add TCW3, it's meant to burn and a relative unknown.
 
Have you tried it? If you did and had problems with it feel free to comment about the problems. If you base your assessments on an MSDS, guess what.........
 
Originally Posted By: bepperb
But you recommend MMO? look at the MSDS on that, guess what...


sorry, newbie here... care to explain whats MSDS???
 
You have to be carefull about getting a sump backfire with high volatility solvents in the crankcase. USA sold Castrol Syntec has very strong detergency since it has a sout syn add pack in group III solvency. I would just run 5w-30 synpower or a mix of 5w-30 and 5w-20 synpower for a week or 2 of clean-up driving and then switch out to your fav oil. This oil did the most agressive cleaning in my Yaris of anything I've had in the sump - and my car had very frequent OC with synthetic.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Have you tried it? If you did and had problems with it feel free to comment about the problems. If you base your assessments on an MSDS, guess what.........
Demar - where did your AFE go in your sig? AFE = real Synthetic 70-80% PAO per msds.
 
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Have you tried it? If you did and had problems with it feel free to comment about the problems. If you base your assessments on an MSDS, guess what.........
Demar - where did your AFE go in your sig? AFE = real Synthetic 70-80% PAO per msds.



I never had AFE in my sig, I think you might have me mixed up with someone else. Been God Bless our Troops for a long time now. Since my son went to Afghanistan for the first time a few years back.
 
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