1996 Saturn SL2 100k miles valvetrain PICS

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This is a one owner 1996 Saturn SL2 (1.9L DOHC), serviced at the dealer @ 30k, 60k, and 90k. OCI is 3k miles on the cheapest 5W-30 Dino available. Contemplated the switch to Syn, but there is no reason at this point. Car still runs excellent, and no smoke. I will have a UOA on it in the next 2 months.

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Wow, That is some heavy varnish for 3000 mile oil change interval. I thought it would look a lot cleaners. Well at least their is no sludge! I am very suprised to see that much varnish that extensively with the short oil change interval. Do not get me wrong I have seen much worse and do not want to offend you. I wounder how much SM/GF4's are going to prevent this type of varnish with simalar OCI's?
 
That's actually a bit dirtier than I would have expected. Almost looks dirtier than Critics Saturn that had over twice the length in oil change intervals. Non the less, it's just heavy varnish which won't hurt anything. I'd consider two runs of Auto-RX; it ate the varnish right up in my Corolla. PCV fresh? May want to change that. Stuck open thermostats usually produce sludge, not varnish if left to be so that likely is not a culprit. EGR good? May want to take it all apart and clean it good, as well as check for functionality.

This really surprises me because we have three cars in excess of 130,000 miles, all run on dino, and they are literally spotless under the valve covers.

Thanks for sharing.
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The cam cover gasket had leaked into one of the spark plug holes for at least a year, if not longer, it was slow, and I can't imagine that much dirt could get into the spark plug area because it has a boot covering the hole. The EGR is new, I recently tested the PCV and there were no problems. There was mostly likely some neglect in the cars life. It's still a one owner, my g/f's parents bought it for her brand new in high school, last year, she bought a new Lexus and gave the Saturn to me as a work commmuter. So it's had the most attention even in its life in the last year since I've replaced pretty much every sensor and other related equipment.

I finally pulled the valve cover to fix that leak into the spark plug hole. I'd be interested in hearing more way to clean it up. The car just hit 106k miles, I'd like to commute in it for another 100k miles. Honestly, the engine is the least of my worries, the transmission will mostly likely die before the engine.

So what's next? Any pointers on oil or other lubricant related services that might extend the life of her?
 
Will Auto-RX do on the next oil change. I assume this stuff is available at all major parts stores? I found these instructions (http://www.auto-rx.com/pages/app_print.htm), looks simple enough. The problem is, I have no plans on pulling the valve cover again, so what is to be gained by cleaning the varnish off? Does it some how hinder performance?
 
You just didn't have the fuel dilution that Critic's had. He was running solvent all that time.
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Hi,

Welcome, fellow 96 SL2 owner!

I recently pulled my valve cover for the same reason as yours: to install new spark plug tube seals to correct an oil leak into cylinder #1.

I don't own a real camera, but here are the images I was able to obtain while the cover was off:

http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...ge=1#Post784656

Your engine looks more heavily varnished than mine...and I changed the oil/filter every 7-10k miles on average for the last 40-50k miles using the cheapest 5w30 dino and filters. Mostly city driving of 1-2 mi trips as well, but I always kept the dipstick full.

Yours should've been much cleaner, and I think the reason why it's so heavily varnished is because of a low oil level. These engines burn ridiculous amounts of oil (mine does 1qt/2k miles), and if the engine was run low on oil in between services, it could cause this kind of varnish.

The transmission on this car is fine. It lasts a very, very long time, but the valve body doesn't.

Since the car had been dealer serviced every 30k miles, the transmission fluid/filter has been replaced on a regular basis. Continue to replace the fluid and filter (use dealer part only) every 20-30k miles. You'll have to replace the valve body soon (usually go around 100k miles), but it is a $300 part from Transtar (VBX produced) and easily done on one's driveway in a few hours. That should allow you to get another 100k out of the unit easily if you keep up with maintenance.
 
I don't doubt it ran a quart low quite often, I am sure for the 8 years she drove the car the dipstick was never pulled once between changes. So religious changes are not enough with this car, it'll take topping off as well. I'll try to clean up the varnish, and keep the oil level topped off (which I have for the last 18 months). Are those Transtar valve bodies easy to find? I might just be proactive and change it since I want the car to last until 200k+ miles.

I recently replaced the radiator w/ an OEM and all associated temp, trans, and air intake temp sensors.
 
Only reason they burn oil is because of the lack of oil return holes in the oil control groove on the piston. My JG pistons for my 1993 dragger have them all the way around.

Nice to see some saturn owners that actually maintain their cars for a change. I've got 4 of them in my family fleet, along with a 1993 chevy truck.
 
Besides not maintaining the oil level, if the car was run in Austin, I suspect the heat we have down here helped with the varnishing.
 
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Besides not maintaining the oil level, if the car was run in Austin, I suspect the heat we have down here helped with the varnishing.




Car's was bought in San Antonio in 1996 and has never left TX. It's been in Austin since 1998 when she went to UT.
 
That is an interesting cam design I haven't seen before. I looks like the cam is narrowed on the base circle portion of the profile and only goes out to full width for the valve open and closing sequence. I wonder what the purpose of that is. Reduce friction? Cause the valve followers to spin for even wear ?
 
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Are those Transtar valve bodies easy to find? I might just be proactive and change it since I want the car to last until 200k+ miles.



The valve body will give you plenty of warning when it fails. The most common form of failure is a "reverse slam," where the transmission will not shift into reverse normally and requires some gas before it'll shift into Reverse, usually with a loud "bang." Just replace the valve body immediately upon experiencing "the slam" or else you'll have to tighten the input shaft nut too...which is a 4+ hr job involving side cover removal. There's no point in replacing the valve body before it fails...seriously...it won't leave you stranded...and yours may have 20-30k left in it since the transmission has been maintained properly.

Two different updates exist to resolve the Saturn TAAT transmission's pressure regulator bore wear. The GM fix (similar to VBX fix) involves reaming out the bore and installing a hardened, oversized valve coupled with new springs. The Sonnax fix involves sleeving the bore and reusing the original valve. (http://www.transmissionspecialty.com/TB/TB-Vol02-03.pdf)

The Sonnax fix is superior as the sleeve used is of a much harder metal, thus reducing the likeliness of the problem reoccuring. There are three different ways one can obtain the Sonnax fix. First way is to go to Omega machine and buy the top half of the valve body for $150 (http://www.omegamachine.com/db/hard_parts.asp), and disassemble and reassemble the valve body yourself. Second way is to buy the reamer tool, sleeve, etc (www.bulkpart.com) and ream out and install a new bore yourself. Neither of those methods gives you the opportunity to professionally test the solenoids. Purchasing the tool to ream out the bore yourself is uneconomical as I can almost buy two remanufactured valve bodies for the amount of money, plus reaming out a bore is not a job for a backyard mechanic.

The third way to obtain the Sonnax fix is to buy a complete remanufactured valve body from Valve Body Pro for about $350. (http://www.valvebodypro.com) They incorporate the Sonnax fix into the valve body remanufacturing process and digitally test all solenoids as any remanufacturing facility would.

Still, I prefer using the Valve Body Express (http://www.valvebodyxpress.com/tech/saturn-taat.asp) remanufactured part despite it’s “lesser” update for the common bore wear problem. Why? I know of many transmission shops that use their parts without issues, and thus that’s greater reputability in my book compared to Valve Body Pro. Valve Body Pro may be very good, but I simply don’t have much experience with them. The fact that Transtar supplies VBX parts to its transmission shops gives VBX a lot of credibility in my book. Even if the part only lasts another 100k…its good enough in my book.

Anyway, Transtar has three locations in Texas...San Antonio, Dallas, and Houston, none in Austin though. Here's Transtar's website: http://www.transtarindustries.com/default.asp

Just be sure to purchase a new top cover gasket and transmission spin-on filter from a Saturn dealership or www.saturnparts.com as part of the job. Also check SaturnFans.com for DIY guides on valve body replacement, and obtain the necessary literature before beginning the job, as loosening the wrong bolts will cause parts to drop into the transaxle and warrant the need for transmission removal and disassembly to retrieve and dropped parts.

Probably more info than you needed…
 
I agree with the comments about checking the oil level regularly and keeping it topped up.

Since Grp I oils were predominate in 1996 and for a while after, that car likely had at least a good 6 years or so of Grp I based oils. 1.5 quarts down in a hot environment (Texas) and a Grp I oil gets trashed very quickly.
 
Does light varnish affect the performance of an engine (gas mileage or emissions) ??
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Why bother running any stuff to remove the varnish when the engine runs great as is.
 
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Does light varnish affect the performance of an engine (gas mileage or emissions) ??
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Why bother running any stuff to remove the varnish when the engine runs great as is.




I found this on the Auto-RX website...
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Varnish is nothing more than a cosmetic stain, it does not affect the performance of your engine.


 
I wouildn't worry about a little varnish. Close it up, keep the oil level topped off and you will never know the differnecey if you cleaned it or not. As long as all the moving parts and oil passageways are unencumbered by the varnish it is little more tahn discoloration of the metal. If it becomes gummy and thick and interferes with anything or is thick enough to act as an insualtor against heat transfer it is a problem. If itnot waht is there to worry about? A clean engine is nice to look at but many here put too much value on shiney new metal clean engines. Telling someone that a thin layer of varnish in a 96 bulk oil serviced vehicle is in need of a "fix" is silly. The best fix for tis Saturn is continued service and not worrying about cosmetics.
 
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