1993 Chevrolet Blazer running thread

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Illustration Details Porous PTFE Filter - Allows atmospheric oxygen to enter the sensor without permitting water or engine contaminants to seep into the casing. Robotic Laser Weld Aluminum-Oxide Trap Layer - Keeps silicone and lead outside the ceramic elient through DENSO's exclusive design, preventing damage to the platinum electrode. Stainless Steel Housing - Resists corrosion and contamination with a rugged, watertight body. Double Protection Cover - Maintains proper unit temperature for quicker response times and protects the ceramic element against silicone and lead poisoning. Features Corrosion-resistant stainless steel construction PTFE filter blocks efficiency-robbing contaminants Refined zirconia element improves sensor response Benefits Superior design maximizes engine performance and fuel efficiency while reducing fuel consumption and harmful emissions First Time Fit® delivers the right part the first time Ensures smog test compliance
 
Dude. An distributor should never need a lot of turning unless timing without any advance.
K. Picture a pie or circle. How much do you think you turned it. Use a clock to compare like did you turn it the dizzy from noon til 3,or noon til 1:30 type deal.
If you turned it more than from 12 to 2 then you've got something seriously buggered and I'll bet you can time the life of the engine on a stopwatch.
Pre-ignition is roughly equal to the piston travelling up and it get to the 9 o'clock position of a circle,still travelling up and hitting it with a sledgehammer trying to make it go downwards but its still on the upstroke. Pistons shatter,connecting rods bend,the crank will go out of round and the bearing will end up taking the unbalanced travel of the circle.

Has it back-fired. If its dieseling dude its not timed right. Sparks are happening and fuel is exploding but the pistons aren't in the right position in relation to the stroke and when the cylinder needs the explosion to force the piston downwards.
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Dude. An distributor should never need a lot of turning unless timing without any advance.
K. Picture a pie or circle. How much do you think you turned it. Use a clock to compare like did you turn it the dizzy from noon til 3,or noon til 1:30 type deal.
If you turned it more than from 12 to 2 then you've got something seriously buggered and I'll bet you can time the life of the engine on a stopwatch.
Pre-ignition is roughly equal to the piston travelling up and it get to the 9 o'clock position of a circle,still travelling up and hitting it with a sledgehammer trying to make it go downwards but its still on the upstroke. Pistons shatter,connecting rods bend,the crank will go out of round and the bearing will end up taking the unbalanced travel of the circle.

Has it back-fired. If its dieseling dude its not timed right. Sparks are happening and fuel is exploding but the pistons aren't in the right position in relation to the stroke and when the cylinder needs the explosion to force the piston downwards.


It hasn't backfired....
I should let a shop time it, yes?

Video 2.
 
(*I just took it for two spins around the block. It seems to lose power OR idle different when hot, or idle weirder. Not so much at first. May or may not be accurate description. Sometimes "My RPMs cut out." Not sure what that means?)
 
The cut out is pre-ignition.
I bet in a very narrow rpm range it runs fantastic but below that its sluggish and above it the exhaust actually sounds like the engine is breaking up.

How much did you turn the distributor. 1/16 of a turn can really cause a lot of damage.
How much. Use a clock as a model or percentage of how much it turned.
When you turned the dizzy did you unplug the advance mechanism.
If you timed it with the advance mechanism plugged I and active you've got problems. Potentially bad enough to warrant learning how to remove and replace the one you've got.
 
I caught the RPMs "cutting out" near the end of the video, right where I go to park the car. The slight idle shake happens afterwards.

Here is that video. Going to work after this.

And I ordered the DENSO 02 sensor (vs AC Delco or Bosch, cost concerns) an hour ago.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=991749&cc=1060579 *had video double-posted; edited that

Quote:
The cut out is pre-ignition.
I bet in a very narrow rpm range it runs fantastic but below that its sluggish and above it the exhaust actually sounds like the engine is breaking up.

How much did you turn the distributor. 1/16 of a turn can really cause a lot of damage.
How much. Use a clock as a model or percentage of how much it turned.
When you turned the dizzy did you unplug the advance mechanism.
If you timed it with the advance mechanism plugged I and active you've got problems. Potentially bad enough to warrant learning how to remove and replace the one you've got.


I turned the distributor.. at least a 12 o'clock to 3 o'clock movement. I really went through the range of what it could be twisted to try to get the timing light mark on where it needed to be. And it seems like it is almost there...

I must post up video once more before I go to work! Had no idea I screwed up the timing.

The cut-out happens right when I go to park the car, in my video. Then you can hear the difference in idle.

And it does run "fantastic" for 90% of it..
 
Last edited:
@ Clevy:

Remember, he said he used some [censored] distributor when the motor was swapped. Probably installed it out of whack, so now he had to turn it way 'round to get it back to correct.
 
If your distributor is in off a tooth it'll take a lot of (all of) the adjustment to get it close to right.

When you stab them in, the twist in the gear makes them want to spin.
 
Originally Posted By: RF Overlord
@ Clevy:

Remember, he said he used some [censored] distributor when the motor was swapped. Probably installed it out of whack, so now he had to turn it way 'round to get it back to correct.


Yup, he stated that the distributor (his "mechanic" selected a ratty one per GHT) and an oil pan were swapped out of the 94 engine for compatibility in his 93. When I saw photos of the oil pan leaking, most likely reused the old gasket, I assumed the Distributor was just thrown in as well (along with worn plugs, plug wires,etc)

I think all the parts used (including the engine) are questionable but could be cleared quickly by a decent mechanic with good diagnostic skills but for some reason he wants to keep swapping parts. At some point he'll be upset with the total part spend, get disillusioned and start again
 
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
I also am hearing the "suck" sound again when I turn it off, but no/greatly reduced "wanting to diesel" shaking when it is shut off.


The sucking sound is likely from your intake and the sound comes out through the air filter. I had the same sound pop up when I changed my air filter last from a good solid Mann filter to a cheapie I bought as an order filler on RA. The cheap one is very light in filtering element and allows the sound to be more audible.

It doesn't hurt anything, it's just annoying.
 
Originally Posted By: cmorr
Originally Posted By: RF Overlord
@ Clevy:

Remember, he said he used some [censored] distributor when the motor was swapped. Probably installed it out of whack, so now he had to turn it way 'round to get it back to correct.


Yup, he stated that the distributor (his "mechanic" selected a ratty one per GHT) and an oil pan were swapped out of the 94 engine for compatibility in his 93. When I saw photos of the oil pan leaking, most likely reused the old gasket, I assumed the Distributor was just thrown in as well (along with worn plugs, plug wires,etc)

I think all the parts used (including the engine) are questionable but could be cleared quickly by a decent mechanic with good diagnostic skills but for some reason he wants to keep swapping parts. At some point he'll be upset with the total part spend, get disillusioned and start again


cmorr, the thing is. that. To get to that place in PA.. takes a day I don't really have.

However, the place across from where I work MAY be a good shop. Unsure. But it is an engine shop.. I will have to post a pic.

I wonder if I went to Advance and got a new cap/rotor if they installed it, what would happen. ?

And yonyon is correct as well as cmorr about how half-censored the install was.

It has been suggested as to new wires, plugs, cap/rotor. Maybe do the cap/rotor, or have it done, 02 sensor too, and see where I am at?
 
Originally Posted By: dishdude
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
http://newjersey.craigslist.org/cto/4114038321.html

?


That actually has the potential to be a decent car. It needs looked at closely! It has a lot of miles and doesn't look like it's had the best of care, but that generation Civic is awfully forgiving.


Plan: Try to PARK the Blazer somewhere, not getting rid of (for various reasons) .. but buying this one, some way some how.. without sacrificing this that I have $1000's into for like $200 or something like that, basically, not giving away a car that is a money pit, but salvaging it in the future. I asked him why he is selling, I know ppl need a quick buck sometimes.

Any chance that hood dent wont let him get inspected?

And yes.. That gen of Civic.. WANT. More than a Sunfire.................
 
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs

I should let a shop time it, yes?



YES. Once and for all. Not in your skill set. Just get it right once and for all so you can move on.

Or, if youre serious about the civic, Id DEFINITELY have a qualified mechanic look it over in a good pre-buy checkover first. Id almost take it to one of those upsell type places that nitpick everything to sell parts, because they may actually go over it carefully and FREE.
 
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
http://newjersey.craigslist.org/cto/4114038321.html

?


Aside from 100 VTech references I don't imagine much good that could come from this car. It's insurance will be higher, it'll be a theft magnet, parts will be 2x as expensive, and the car will have been ragged by its previous owner assuming that since it's Japanese, it won't break.

If you were to buy another heap (please don't), make it a generic american heap... 4 cyl, FWD. Saturn/Neon/Cavalier/Sunfire/Escort/Focus...

VtecPanda.jpg
 
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs


Any chance that hood dent wont let him get inspected?


That dent looks like a hard front corner hit that somebody pulled out enough to get the hood to the point of opening/closing and looks somewhat normal.

Most certainly structural damage beyond the hood/bumper cover, possible damage to under-hood components, etc. You would want a body shop to look at it and mechanic
 
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