12 KIA Forte 4388mi Mobil super bulk 5/20

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nothing new here breaking in well. changed air filter at this change. 15300 on the clock
forteoil12413.jpg
 
Interesting as I just bought an Altima 2.5 and am close to my first OC. Is this typical wear for breakin for a new engine ?
 
Walk23,

It is typical for the metals to be a little elevated during break in until everything get settled. How long that takes is dependant on several factors including the nature of the engine, operating style and the frequency of the initial oil changes.

I don't mean to hijack but if you are interested here is some UOA history for my wifes Nissan 2.5 starting from factory fill. If interested PM me and I can provide much more data from later on in it's life as well.

www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1115320&fpart=1
 
Originally Posted By: walk23
Interesting as I just bought an Altima 2.5 and am close to my first OC. Is this typical wear for breakin for a new engine ?

Yes, the elevated metals in the oil is why some people feel its a good idea to remove the ff early, while others feel its beneficial in some way to leave in as long as possible.
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You could have left the air filter on for a lot longer. Your Si numbers were starting to come down nicely.
 
Originally Posted By: coolbird101
Originally Posted By: walk23
Interesting as I just bought an Altima 2.5 and am close to my first OC. Is this typical wear for breakin for a new engine ?

Yes, the elevated metals in the oil is why some people feel its a good idea to remove the ff early, while others feel its beneficial in some way to leave in as long as possible.
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People don't believe in leaving the FF in because of the wear metals. People believe in leaving the FF in because some manufacturers use lubes with special additives or high levels of moly to aid in engine break in and these manufacturers have made it clear they want those additives in the oil for a full OCI. Plenty of UOAs have shown that leaving the FF in for the full OCI causes no problems.
 
Originally Posted By: badtlc
Originally Posted By: coolbird101
Originally Posted By: walk23
Interesting as I just bought an Altima 2.5 and am close to my first OC. Is this typical wear for breakin for a new engine ?

Yes, the elevated metals in the oil is why some people feel its a good idea to remove the ff early, while others feel its beneficial in some way to leave in as long as possible.
21.gif



People don't believe in leaving the FF in because of the wear metals. People believe in leaving the FF in because some manufacturers use lubes with special additives or high levels of moly to aid in engine break in and these manufacturers have made it clear they want those additives in the oil for a full OCI. Plenty of UOAs have shown that leaving the FF in for the full OCI causes no problems.

I realize this, my comment was 1/2 toungue and cheek. It would be nice to know for sure which method is the more beneficial to the engine. Kind of surprising after all these years, we still don't know the answer to this age old question.
grin.gif
 
I've seen enough to know where I stand! I never leave it in past 1k. Usually 500-1000 after a fairly hard break in. (You know, like the wife usually drives it, +.) See the UOA history on the Rogue above-we didn't hurt it any. Still 0 consumption and pretty UOAs at 105k. This method hasn't failed us yet. All our new vehicles have been the same way.
 
Originally Posted By: REDDOG
Walk23,

It is typical for the metals to be a little elevated during break in until everything get settled. How long that takes is dependant on several factors including the nature of the engine, operating style and the frequency of the initial oil changes.

I don't mean to hijack but if you are interested here is some UOA history for my wifes Nissan 2.5 starting from factory fill. If interested PM me and I can provide much more data from later on in it's life as well.

www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1115320&fpart=1





Looked at your UOA's. Think I may change out FF at 3750 miles with PU 5W20 WITH A 6000 OCI and do an analysis. Have heard the pros and cons of using dino for break in but b/c of my location and the manual states a 0W20 is preferred and no 0W20 dino.
 
Originally Posted By: KCJeep
Wear seems pretty low to me for such a new engine. Which KIA engine specifically is this?

2.0L 4 banger. don't know if nits true DI or not since their(KIA)terminology has changed this yr.
Quote:
That car has Hyundai's 2.0L Theta II motor.

thanks Salv. I get them mixed up for some reason(the names of oil)
going to continue w/this oil for now. manual states 3700 mi severe and 7000 or so normal but TBN is coming back still good I may go out to 5K. manual also says I can go as high as a 10/30, which I have a boat load of. may try PP after it all settles out just to see how it likes it.
 
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5w30 is a good choice for any Hyundai motor. Euro spec Hyundais and Kias with the same motors allow for 30 and 40 weight oils.
Mobil Special is a solid oil with great TBN retention. It used to be bottled as Supertech, and there is a UOA on here somewhere that had a Mercury Villager with over 10k on the Mobil Special version of Supertech. It looked great even at 10k.
Mobil Special really doesn't give up anything to Mobil Super, except a little detergency. Special uses a Trimer additive like Delvac, whereas Super uses Titanium, so Special is going to do a great job preventing engine wear.
 
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