1/2 qt low---ok to add?

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Originally Posted By: paulri
OK, it really looks like nobody here has a big problem with being 1/2 qt low. If that's the case, I won't add any.

I'm a bit surprised at that, though.But then again, you folks know more about engines than I do. That's why I joined this forum.
smile.gif



I would add oil. Here's why:

Your observation above about the reduced oil volume is correct.The lesser volume of oil does work harder, and that can lead to it using oil faster. The manual verbiage is because, as noted above, a lot of people don't know how to check oil. It needs to be settled in the sump, after being shut off a while. Some people will check it running, or immediately after shut-off.

I didn't always do this; I have an older Audi V8 from the 90s and the sump is 10.5 qts. The baffle design was poor from the beginning and led to excessive splash and oil use. The answer was to just keep the distick at the add mark, or 8.5 qts. Voila, usage curbed. And I got lazy about staying at the add mark because for that vehicle, it actually worked. But now I have two older Japanese cars, an Acura and Lexus with the same V6 as your Sienna (if you have the 6). Keeping them at the "full" mark reduces usage - nearly none with the Toyota/Lexus with the right oil. That engine likes to stay at the "full" and I'm happy to oblige.
 
The read side of the dip stick is "busy" with cross hatches, writing, and other distractions. I find it much easier to see the actual oil level on the back side of the dip stick. Ideally, both sides match. If not, I do it again until they do.
 
Is it okay to add? Yes. Do you need to? No. If you are not so great about regularly checking your oil level, then it might be best to add when halfway between the dipstick marks before forgetting and running below the add mark.

Originally Posted By: Oro_O
Originally Posted By: paulri
OK, it really looks like nobody here has a big problem with being 1/2 qt low. If that's the case, I won't add any.

I'm a bit surprised at that, though.But then again, you folks know more about engines than I do. That's why I joined this forum.
smile.gif



I would add oil. Here's why:

Your observation above about the reduced oil volume is correct.The lesser volume of oil does work harder, and that can lead to it using oil faster. The manual verbiage is because, as noted above, a lot of people don't know how to check oil. It needs to be settled in the sump, after being shut off a while. Some people will check it running, or immediately after shut-off.

No, his observation about the reduced oil volume is flawed. There is a reason there are full and add marks (or low and high, whatever they are on your vehicle) on the dipstick. The lubrication system is designed to operate just fine when the oil level is at the low mark. So running 1/2 way between the two marks on a 5 quart sump is still running with 12.5% more oil than is necessary. Running 1/2 a quart below the low mark is running 12.5% low on oil.

And the oil does not do any of the work. The work is done to it.

As far as checking the oil level, follow the owner's manual. The manuals for both of my GM vehicles state that the oil should be checked after the vehicle was run and then allowed to sit for a few minutes. They specifically state that the oil must be warm in order to get an accurate reading. If your manual says to check cold, then feel free to be OCD about it and wait until it has sat on a level-verified flat surface for three weeks.
 
3 weeks? How about just before you leave for work in the morning...or just before you leave work?

Mobil says do it either way - but wait at least 5-10 min.

The quick lube places certainly don't wait 5-10 minutes if doing it hot.

My owner's manual says to check warm, 5-10 min after turning it off. Most people probably check if fairly cold. Whatever you do be consistent and know what it reads either way. You can potentially get a 4-12 oz swing from stone cold to fully hot. It's not as easy to read when hot either.

Old thread
 
Originally Posted By: paulri
OK, it really looks like nobody here has a big problem with being 1/2 qt low. If that's the case, I won't add any.

I'm a bit surprised at that, though.But then again, you folks know more about engines than I do. That's why I joined this forum.
smile.gif



I check weekly and top up if necessary because I'm OCD about keeping it right on the FULL mark, however, so long as it is above the LOW mark then you are not low on oil, and do not need to add any.

The only rule is to keep it above the LOW mark, the method by which you decide to do this is largely unimportant.
 
Originally Posted By: NMBurb02


No, his observation about the reduced oil volume is flawed. There is a reason there are full and add marks (or low and high, whatever they are on your vehicle) on the dipstick. The lubrication system is designed to operate just fine when the oil level is at the low mark. So running 1/2 way between the two marks on a 5 quart sump is still running with 12.5% more oil than is necessary. Running 1/2 a quart below the low mark is running 12.5% low on oil.

And the oil does not do any of the work. The work is done to it.


I think your view of what the dipstick means is flawed.

The system is designed to work optimally with between, let's say 4 to 5 qts of oil betweent the add and full marks. By common definition (and not the pedantically narrow physics term you employ for "work"), the oil is indeed "working." Less oil means more trips through the ring pack and other stressful areas. Less oil in a system does not mean starvation, but it does not mean it's working optimally. If you want to run less oil in a system, then you need to do som knowing all the parameters and reducing OCIs accordingly.
 
In the old days when oil came in quart cans they calibrated dipsticks so you'd run down a quart by the time you hit the "add" line. That way you wouldn't have half a can in your trunk sloshing all over-- once you punctured it with the "church key" you were obligated to use it all or let it sit and get dust in it.

This way of doing it hasn't changed over the thirty years we've run plastic bottles.

They also don't want admit to/ add on to the OCD of "I had to add 2 oz of oil" which tarnishes the brand and just annoys people.
 
I went ahead and added 6 oz. I'll check it tomorrow after I drive it.

I think I see the arguments either way, but I came down on the side of adding it when I realized that I'd be diluting wear metals and contaminants by 10% by simply pouring in that oil.
 
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
If you're changing oil soon(less than 1k miles) then no need to top off, if your OCI is 6-7k miles then add 1/2 quarts.
That's what I would do.
 
I love these threads. Something that is elementary and probably the most basic task for a motorist, this and checking tire pressures, but it too has stipulations such as not being driven more than a mile in the past few hours. And generally, we don't get a tire psi range as we do with add and full marks on the dipstick.



Anyway, I like checking cold even thugh most readings say check hot. Also, I see alot say to drain the oil hot, but when I do I somehow remove the drain plug with oil pan threads coming out too....so I change cold- it is safer as well....no getting burnt or scalded as the oil holds alot of heat and doesnt immediately cool when it hits you like water does- it burns like hot pizza mozzarella.








As to the issue, my car seems to read a pint fuller when cold. So, between add and full I have four sections- so I assume each is a half pint. After an extended highway run after sitting for about ten minutes it covered one......after sitting overnight it would cover 3 of them. So, what I am getting at is to maybe have the level between the marks both when the oil is hot and when it is cold.

Aside from that, I think performance oriented driving should always have between halfway up the dipstick to full- as I hear alot of oil is in the top end at high rpms. But for commuting, maybe check however gets a better reading for you as long as the four tires are on a level plane and add a quart when the oil level is as close to the ADD line as you are comfortable with.
 
Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28
Another question could be as to adding cold oil to a hot engine. Should you wait until the oil in the sump and the oil in the makeup bottle is at the same temperature?


Did you really just say that?

The anal retentiveness is staggering. And Not just you.
 
Originally Posted By: paulri
I went ahead and added 6 oz. I'll check it tomorrow after I drive it.

I think I see the arguments either way, but I came down on the side of adding it when I realized that I'd be diluting wear metals and contaminants by 10% by simply pouring in that oil.


Just for the record, I added 12 oz, not 6. I couldn't edit the post.
 
Originally Posted By: turtlevette
Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28
Another question could be as to adding cold oil to a hot engine. Should you wait until the oil in the sump and the oil in the makeup bottle is at the same temperature?


Did you really just say that?

The anal retentiveness is staggering. And Not just you.



That is what this place is all about.

Don't overthink it. If it is a half quart low add a half quart if you must. No need to be precise about it. It isn't going to hurt anything if it is a little under or over.
 
Yes, jhellwig....I dont know why you mention the digestive system turboman. Anyway, I think there is a whole subject committed to what you consider digestion.....thermodynamics.........Way to potty mouth BITOG! U R sick, but I will explain to you so you may be cured in the future and not be a disease.


You dont race a cold motor. I believe there are called cold seizures and are more pronounced in two stroke engines, but anyway....I guess if you got a bottle of 65F oil from the parts house and added it on a hot day in the desert after a lapping session then it may present itself as a problem immediately.

But we here at BITOG may try to get something nailed down exactly, as we would a math problem. Whether you are .1 of a point off from the answer or 1,000- your math wasn't correct and you did not solve the problem.

True alot of forgiveness has been instilled in the auto industry, but that doesnt mean we just wait until something breaks before taking care of it.
 
Probably 99% of the people on this planet would look at every thread here in this forum, and say we are asking too many questions about cars and oil--that we are all being anal retentive. I agree, here is the place to ask them.
 
Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28
I guess if you got a bottle of 65F oil from the parts house and added it on a hot day in the desert after a lapping session then it may present itself as a problem immediately.


Fairly certain this would never be an issue. You are correct in that you should not push a cold engine too hard, but the difference is that in your situation the engine is already hot. Also, the oil in your situation would also already be hot, so the addition of a small amount of 65F oil would likely only bring down the average temp of the oil by a small amount. Then, the oil would quickly be brought back up to operating temp as soon as the hot engine was re-started.
 
Chewie, I am getting at that it is the same reason why you do not pressure wash a hot engine nor should you spray and clean your wheels when the rotors are hot.

It can cause issues and I suspect it is the rapid change of temperature that does it.






Maybe the exhibit at Disney world is related to this. There are three handles : one is hot, one is at room/ambient, and the third is cold. You hold the hot with one hand and hold the cold with the other. After a few seconds, you put both hands on the 'neutral' one.


Care to guess the sensation you feel?
 
Originally Posted By: paulri

Stupid question here: does this mean it is best to wait for that level to drop, before adding oil?


Why wait?
 
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