08 Sierra Rear Axle Service

Joined
Jun 6, 2017
Messages
190
Location
FL, USA
I am thinking about tackling this service in the future and trying to get some info on it because I have never done one of these before but it doesn't seem too hard. I don't think the service has ever been done even though the truck is an 08, I think it has been babied and it only has 55k on it.

The operators manual just states 75w-90 synthetic axle lube is what is needed, it doesn't give a capacity (Thinking I need 1-2 qts?).

  1. Should I order a gasket or is RTV sufficient?
  2. What is the best way to clean the old gasket/mating surface?
  3. Should I spray/clean out the gears with brake cleaner and let it dry before sealing it back up?
  4. What axle lube/additives are recommended?
  5. What is the torque spec for the bolts/plug?
Thanks!
 
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I’m going to assume a 1/2 ton since you didn’t mention a 3/4 ton. I use a Felpro gasket and coat the cover side with Permatex High Tack. The forums have gone on forever with RTV vs gaskets and it will probably get discussed here. A plastic scraper should be good. Spraying cleaner on the gears is just anal retention in my opinion. 75W90 Synthetic. No additives, even if it was a G-80 locking diff. If the gear oil comes with LS additives don’t worry about it. Watch for a magnet on the back of the cover or possibly at the bottom of the diff. Clean the magnet.

Good advice on the fill plug. ( Make sure you can unscrew it). If stuck, spray it with Liquid Wrench or your favourite penetrating oil. If it doesn’t want to come out, use the end of a impact wrench and give it some tough love. Wear eye protection. If the plug is still stuck you can order a new cover from Rock Auto. Watch a few You Tube videos.
 
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I’m going to assume a 1/2 ton since you didn’t mention a 3/4 ton. I use a Felpro gasket and coat the cover side with Permatex High Tack. The forums have gone on forever with RTV vs gaskets and it will probably get discussed here. A plastic scraper should be good. Spraying cleaner on the gears is just anal retention in my opinion. 75W90 Synthetic. No additives, even if it was a G-80 locking diff. If the gear oil comes with LS additives don’t worry about it. Watch for a magnet on the back of the cover or possibly at the bottom of the diff. Clean the magnet.

Good advice on the fill plug. ( Make sure you can unscrew it). If stuck, spray it with Liquid Wrench or your favourite penetrating oil. If it doesn’t want to come out, use the end of an impact wrench and give it some tough love. Wear eye protection. If the plug is still stuck you can order a new cover from Rock Auto. Watch a few You Tube videos.
Great advice,I had good luck with Fel Pro gaskets and old school high tack when doing this job.
 
I’m going to assume a 1/2 ton since you didn’t mention a 3/4 ton.
Yeah it's a 1500

I had good luck with Fel Pro gaskets and old school high tack when doing this job.
Is the gasket alone not sufficient? I have never used high tack before...

If you want to do the cheap & easy; just open the fill plug & Harbor Freight hand pump as much oil out as you can. Refill & done. Not perfect & kinda chincy, but you can get quite a bit of the old fluid out & not have to mess with the diff cover.
This is not out of the question lol... I guess I could open the fill plug and see how dirty it is... But another part of me just wants to do it the real way.
 
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Yeah it's a 1500


Is the gasket alone not sufficient? I have never used high tack before...


This is not out of the question lol... I guess I could open the fill plug and see how dirty it is... But another part of me just wants to do it the real way.
High Tack (or any other gasket dressing) just keeps the gasket in place while you insert the bolts. It just makes it a bit easier to get it done. I only place it on one side of the gasket, so really, you can do without it. If there is a magnet inside the case, you want to clean that.
 
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Most likely the OPs diff has the G-80 "Gov-Lock" differential. (made by Eaton back in the day).

All that is needed is any GL-5 fluid with L/S additive. The Gov-Lock has clutches in it (yes; despite the name of a "Lock"er, it's really a modified clutch-driven unit). The clutches need some L/S friction modifier to operate properly. So make sure you get a lube with L/S additive included.

If you get some nuisance locking events, don't despair. Just go buy a small bottle of F/M and add a small amount (few ounces) and then go drive some figure-eight circles to work the F/M into the lube and clutches.

As for brand and viscosity, it won't matter; any typical GL-5 will do.
 
Most likely the OPs diff has the G-80 "Gov-Lock" differential. (made by Eaton back in the day).

All that is needed is any GL-5 fluid with L/S additive. The Gov-Lock has clutches in it (yes; despite the name of a "Lock"er, it's really a modified clutch-driven unit). The clutches need some L/S friction modifier to operate properly. So make sure you get a lube with L/S additive included.

If you get some nuisance locking events, don't despair. Just go buy a small bottle of F/M and add a small amount (few ounces) and then go drive some figure-eight circles to work the F/M into the lube and clutches.

As for brand and viscosity, it won't matter; any typical GL-5 will do.
Sorry, I disagree that a Gov-lock needs a LS additive, but fortunately most diff lubes do contain it anyway. The current GM recommendation for clutch chatter such as with turning in parking lots is to change out the lube to fresh synthetic lube. By the way, the OP can check for a Gov-lock by opening the glove box and checking the collection of codes for the code G-80. If no G-80 is seen, it didn’t come from the factory with one. In a way, the issue is almost a moot point.
 
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Most likely the OPs diff has the G-80 "Gov-Lock" differential. (made by Eaton back in the day).

All that is needed is any GL-5 fluid with L/S additive. The Gov-Lock has clutches in it (yes; despite the name of a "Lock"er, it's really a modified clutch-driven unit). The clutches need some L/S friction modifier to operate properly. So make sure you get a lube with L/S additive included.

If you get some nuisance locking events, don't despair. Just go buy a small bottle of F/M and add a small amount (few ounces) and then go drive some figure-eight circles to work the F/M into the lube and clutches.

As for brand and viscosity, it won't matter; any typical GL-5 will do.
GM specifically recommends NOT to use any L/S additive in the G80 truck locking rear ends. While the small amount in any regular GL-5 fluid isn't going to make much of a difference, adding any L/S additive is specifically not to be done per GM recommendations.

L/S fluid is only required for the cars that used the posi-style rear ends. I think the confusion here is that GM used the same G80 code for both cars and trucks. They should have used different codes and saved everyone the trouble here.
 
Snaggle and LDM

I want to politely say that you are both wrong.

Without any doubt, the Gov-Lock system needs some FM in the lube. That old GM spec is "9986115". Google it and you'll find a bazillion discussions on it.

The confusion over this topic comes from old intel that is probably 15 years back or more. There was a statement out from GM not to add FM to their GM differential oils. Those lubes were called "grape juice" by many because of the pleasant odor they had. Anyway, the statement of not adding FM to the lube was because the GM lube already has FM in it, and adding "more" to it can cause the clutches too slip to easily, and not function properly by not applying the proper amount of intended torque bias through the clutch pack.
- the confusion comes from people misinterpreting GMs position.
GM states to not "add" any FM to the 9986115 lube. That does not mean no FM exists in the fluid. It means there's already some in there, and so don't add "more" to the lube.
- the reason they don't want "more" FM in there is because too much FM has an effect of making the clutches slip too easily, and it will reduce the torque bias via clutches that won't transmit torque as effectively when the ramp tightens in the "locker".
- The G-80 is not a "locker" in the traditional sense (like a Detroit Locker). The Gov-Lock uses a clutch pack activated by a spinning flyweight to run up a ramp and put pressure on the clutch pack. IT NEEDS FM for the clutch pack to work properly.

I did a LOT of research on this topic way back in the day. Somewhere floating around the 'net is a statement from an Eaton engineer, specifically stating that the Gov-Lock unit DOES NEED some L/S FM additive to operate properly.



Here is the Eaton promo video:
in this video they call the clutch pack the "active disc pack"; it has friction plates (clutches !!!!!!)
In fact, the "active disc pack" is pretty much like any wet-clutch assembly found in a modern multi-plate motorcycle clutch pack.




Here's EATONs webpage on the M-locker (their name for GM's Gov-Locker)
In this web info you'll see they accurately call this a "light-bias limited slip" unit.
Allow me to quote their own words ....
"The stopped flyweight triggers a self-energizing clutch system, forcing a cam plate to ramp against a side gear."
That's right, they call it what it is ... a "clutch system".
Those clutches need FM to work properly so they don't get nuisance grabbing events.

GM puts FM in their 9986115 fluid. So they say "don't add FM" because it's already in their product you'd buy from the parts guy at the GM dealership.
Don't assume the words "don't add friction modifier" mean the same as "there's no friction modifier in our lube at all'. Those two phrases do NOT mean the same thing, but unfortunately have become an urban legend myth.

Think of this topic not unlike Goldilocks and her porridge.
- having no FM at all will cause the clutches to grab too easily, and chatter, and cause nuisance locking
- having too much FM will cause the clutches to slip too easily, meaning the torque bias will be inadequate and traction will be lost
- having the right amount of FM will make the unit design as intended.

Most readily available GL-5 lubes which include some FM in them will suffice for servicing the G-80 Gov-Locker. If you experience some chatter, adding a tiny bit (a few oz's) of more FM will likely alleviate the issue.
 
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On the subject of rear diff’s GM is terrible. Looking at a 2024 Silverado owners manual, changing the rear diff fluid is not a maintenance item and in the fluid section the manual says “ see your dealer” for the fluid listing for a rear diff. The easy way out on this is to just use one of the may lubes that already contain some LS additive and call it a day. :)

8B81CD3E-1521-4D6E-B8BC-A070FC1257D6.jpeg
9C428ACC-EA64-431B-9904-2AC7BA856202.jpeg
 
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I have mobile delvac 75w90 w zero LS in my rear diff (Chevy Avalanche w G80 rear diff) with 200k miles, no chatter, no easy grabbing, no nuisance locking. I guess mine doesn’t need LS fluid
 
I have mobile delvac 75w90 w zero LS in my rear diff (Chevy Avalanche w G80 rear diff) with 200k miles, no chatter, no easy grabbing, no nuisance locking. I guess mine doesn’t need LS fluid

I assume you refer to "Delvac 1"; the syn gear lube for Mobil's HD market. They also offer a conventional HD lube, but it's called "Mobi-Lube HD Plus".


It's likely that after 200k miles, those clutches are so worn, and wave washer so weak, that it doesn't transmit much bias whatsoever. Other than gear contact, there's not much going on in that diff; pretty much worn out.
 
I used supertech 75w90 full syn in my locking 08 Silverado, following the advice of "everybody but one person". The locking diff worked great, a touch too well, but I have a dirt road up a pretty steep hill to camp and it got me there. Changing fluid had no effect on its behavior, but, of course, I can't attest factory lube was in it before.

I pulled the cover because I was changing the axle bearings and the tubes had to come out. Do NOT spray brake cleaner inside the diff. You won't get all the oil out and the brake cleaner will mix in. Brake cleaner is anti-oil, its reason for existence is to break oil down, it's kryptonite! If you have to clean the cover flange, spray brake cleaner on a rag then wipe the rag on the flange. People spray inside here to get rid of varnish and "feel good"... who's gonna look?

It takes 2.1 quarts. I used permatex black RTV and it worked great. If you have access to a vacuum pump or turkey baster you can slurp the last few tablespoons out of the bottom of the pumpkin so you won't have it oozing out through your curing RTV. Permatex now recommends, and so do I, to torque the bolts finger tight before curing then going around again to final torque later.

Gaskets are for mechanics that have to slam something together and get it out the door. If you have time to let RTV set, use it.
 
Snaggle and LDM

I want to politely say that you are both wrong.

Without any doubt, the Gov-Lock system needs some FM in the lube. That old GM spec is "9986115". Google it and you'll find a bazillion discussions on it.

The confusion over this topic comes from old intel that is probably 15 years back or more. There was a statement out from GM not to add FM to their GM differential oils. Those lubes were called "grape juice" by many because of the pleasant odor they had. Anyway, the statement of not adding FM to the lube was because the GM lube already has FM in it, and adding "more" to it can cause the clutches to slip to easily, and not function properly.
- the confusion comes from people misinterpreting GMs position.
GM states to not "add" any FM to the 9986115 lube. That does not mean no FM exists in the fluid. It means there's already some in there, and so don't add "more" to the lube.
- the reason they don't want "more" FM in there is because too much FM has an effect of making the clutches slip too easily, and it will reduce the torque bias via clutches that won't transmit torque as effectively when the ramp tightens in the "locker".
- The G-80 is not a "locker" in the traditional sense (like a Detroit Locker). The Gov-Lock uses a clutch pack activated by a spinning flyweight to run up a ramp and put pressure on the clutch pack. IT NEEDS FM for the clutch pack to work properly.

I did a LOT of research on this topic way back in the day. Somewhere floating around the 'net is a statement from an Eaton engineer, specifically stating that the Gov-Lock unit DOES NEED some L/S FM additive to operate properly.



Here is the Eaton promo video


Snaggle and LDM

I want to politely say that you are both wrong.

Without any doubt, the Gov-Lock system needs some FM in the lube. That old GM spec is "9986115". Google it and you'll find a bazillion discussions on it.

The confusion over this topic comes from old intel that is probably 15 years back or more. There was a statement out from GM not to add FM to their GM differential oils. Those lubes were called "grape juice" by many because of the pleasant odor they had. Anyway, the statement of not adding FM to the lube was because the GM lube already has FM in it, and adding "more" to it can cause the clutches too slip to easily, and not function properly by not applying the proper amount of intended torque bias through the clutch pack.
- the confusion comes from people misinterpreting GMs position.
GM states to not "add" any FM to the 9986115 lube. That does not mean no FM exists in the fluid. It means there's already some in there, and so don't add "more" to the lube.
- the reason they don't want "more" FM in there is because too much FM has an effect of making the clutches slip too easily, and it will reduce the torque bias via clutches that won't transmit torque as effectively when the ramp tightens in the "locker".
- The G-80 is not a "locker" in the traditional sense (like a Detroit Locker). The Gov-Lock uses a clutch pack activated by a spinning flyweight to run up a ramp and put pressure on the clutch pack. IT NEEDS FM for the clutch pack to work properly.

I did a LOT of research on this topic way back in the day. Somewhere floating around the 'net is a statement from an Eaton engineer, specifically stating that the Gov-Lock unit DOES NEED some L/S FM additive to operate properly.



Here is the Eaton promo video:
in this video they call the clutch pack the "active disc pack"; it has friction plates (clutches !!!!!!)
In fact, the "active disc pack" is pretty much like any wet-clutch assembly found in a modern multi-plate motorcycle clutch pack.




Here's EATONs webpage on the M-locker (their name for GM's Gov-Locker)
In this web info you'll see they accurately call this a "light-bias limited slip" unit.
Allow me to quote their own words ....
"The stopped flyweight triggers a self-energizing clutch system, forcing a cam plate to ramp against a side gear."
That's right, they call it what it is ... a "clutch system".
Those clutches need FM to work properly so they don't get nuisance grabbing events.

GM puts FM in their 9986115 fluid. So they say "don't add FM" because it's already in their product you'd buy from the parts guy at the GM dealership.
Don't assume the words "don't add friction modifier" mean the same as "there's no friction modifier in our lube at all'. Those two phrases do NOT mean the same thing, but unfortunately have become an urban legend myth.

Think of this topic not unlike Goldilocks and her porridge.
- having no FM at all will cause the clutches to grab too easily, and chatter, and cause nuisance locking
- having too much FM will cause the clutches to slip too easily, meaning the torque bias will be inadequate and traction will be lost
- having the right amount of FM will make the unit design as intended.

Most readily available GL-5 lubes which include some FM in them will suffice for servicing the G-80 Gov-Locker. If you experience some chatter, adding a tiny bit (a few oz's) of more FM will likely a alleviate the issue.

A lot of good info, if I'm wrong I'm wrong. I don't mind admitting it. Personally I've never owned any of GM trucks in the 04 years, so maybe the diff locker is different from the GMT400 and the 2018 I currently own. I know that L/S is not required in the GMT400 years, I've owned multiple trucks from those years with 200K+ miles and never got anything more than 80W90 diff fluid in them, all G80s. My 2018 is running 75W90 synthetic with no F/S, again G80 rear end and no issues.

All the GM bulletins I saw specifically said to not add any F/S additive. I suppose if 9986115 spec fluid already has it then that might be why. Too much can be just as bad as too little. Once again, I will blame GM and their RPO codes that are used across multiple years and different equipment. Just use a different code so it can easily be determined between the various years and models. G80 doesn't need to be the only code for rear ends using various types of posi/locking rear ends.

I have 2 Camaros, both 89 and 94, and they also have the G80 code for their posi style rear ends. You must add the F/S additive, even with the diff fluids that have F/S additive already included, as it is never enough. Well, at least on my 89 as it still has the original 9 bolt differential. I swapped my 94 some years ago to a full Detroit locker in a Strange S60 for the track. Now that rear end is a real locking diff.
 
Great info gents, I am learning a lot... I was planning on using Mobil 1 Synthetic 75W-90 LS but Oreilly's says it's not compatible???

Screenshot_2024-01-10_20-42-53.png


I will have to double check in the morning but this is my engine detail.
SLE - V8 - 5.3L 5328cc 325ci GAS MFI vin J type LY5 - 2 valve OHV

If I use a 75w-90 Synthetic LS I suppose I do not have to add a LS additive...
 
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