06 Corolla Sludge :: MMO Experiment

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Well, I've been to quite a few of them and they do provide a excellent service for folks who don't want to do their own oil changes.

But looking at THIS thread and the facts here until I see the receipts for 4 oil changes from them then I'll be the first one to call them out on THIS sludge engine.

There are more Jiffy Lubes doing a good service then the rip off ones. Many more I'd bet.

Take care, bill
 
I find it hard to believe that they would not install a filter 4 times. They buy them in bulk. How much would one filter cost them? 2 bucks maybe?
 
The oil filter on this vehicle was dated DEC 07. It is a FRAM PRO. Considering you can't buy these in stores, that proves it was done by a dealer/quick lube.

The simplest explanation is usually the correct one. The Toyota dealership uses FRAM Pro filters ordered in cases of 12. She did not change the oil for 2 years. OR, she got the oil changed at Walmart TLE (which uses FRAM Pro) sometime a long time ago. Either way, I'd say she didn't change the oil in 2 years.

The girl was trying to avoid confrontation and berating about her lack of knowledge about cars. She felt embarassed.

This is a much more logical explanation than her taking it to a JL 4 times and having them never replace the filter etc.

This oil/filter would NOT look like this if it were changed 4 times in 2 years (which would probably be an acceptable OCI in this case).

This proves, once again, that it doesn't matter what oil or filter to you use as long as you change it.
 
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Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: ronrackley
I'd be careful with that MMO in there. From your description of the degree of the sludge problem, I'd change it and the filter again with MMO in a week or two - or at no more than 500 miles while listening closely to the engine to make sure no knocks develop. If new sounds develop, I'd change it immediately. My concern would be clogging up the filter with the products of dissolved sludge and letting junk bypass it to cause restrictions in the oil passages and/or valve lifters of the engine.

I've used MMO and recommended it be used to resolve sludge problems such as cause lifter noise many times over the past 40 years and I believe in it. It may not help much with sludge in the filler tube, where it does not circulate, but it will be cleaning where oil does circulate. From what you say, I'd check the PVC system for a bad PCV valve or blockages in hoses/tubes.


Good suggestions. The internals of that engine are probably a real mess. I would run that MMO for about 500-750 miles max, and dump the oil and filter. If not at least drop the filter and top it off. Then I would run a qt of MMO for about 1500-2000 miles and do another OC. It might take 2-3 runs with the MMO to clean that mess up, but my bet is it will do it.

I would be interested in seeing if it cleans the fill tube, I have my doubts about that.


I am surprised that there has been no discussion of the PCV system, as a non-functioning one can greatly contribute to sludge formation and, even if this one was not part of the problem from the beginning, it is likely to be compromised now from the description of the sludge in the fill tube. To clean that engine up and keep it clean, a well functioning PCV system will be essential in my opinion.

To get to the subject that seems near to everyone's heart - I stopped using Jiffy Lube when they tried to sell me a transmission flush by showing a white card with a smear of ATF on it while an oil change was underway and saying it was getting dark and could lead to an expensive transmission repair if I didn't have it serviced then and there. The car was a Buick with about 45,000 miles on it, but they didn't realize that the transmission had been replaced the previous week under warranty. I told the young man that and asked if he was telling me that the dealer put in a new transmission and then filled it with bad ATF. He leaned over and spoke with the fellow in the pit under the car and then said "it's OK sir." I have never set foot in another one. That was over 20 years ago and I had always been satisfied with their oil changes before that.
 
Originally Posted By: Drew99GT
Bill, you and I agree on most things, but I have to take exception to your stance on Jiffy Lube. They have a well documented history of ripping people off. Are some franchises OK and honest? Of course. But you want facts. The fact is many news organizations have done private investigations of Jiffy Lube franchises (along with other quick lubes) and found that they're ripping consumers off. We've all seen the videos. That is a fact.



Which is interesting, because I'm siding with Bill on this one.


Until I see proof otherwise, I think the car was poorly cared for in the first place.


I as as I commend Catera for doing what he did, I think it may be more trouble than it is worth...
 
Well fellas, I don't think I will be able to get receipts from her, she is not the most organized person in the world, and hardly ever keeps receipts of anything.

Also I asked about the previous oil records before I told her anything about the sludge, and I am pretty sure she told me the truth. When I told her about the sludge she asked if that was bad for the engine, and I responded that it can harm the seals, and needs to be cleaned out.

Early next week she will be going out shopping with my GF, and I will get my hands on her car for a couple hours so I will lift the valve cover and clean and photograph everything under there.

As soon as we get some more pictures we can see exactly what it looks like under there.

I will check the PCV system too.
 
If it were me, I would not use MMO to "clean" the sludge. You are asking for trouble. It is not recommended by any car manufacturer, and if something goes wrong it's your fault. No good deed goes unpunished.

I would change the oil and filter again on my dime when you get the car early next week. Mobil 5000 and Fram are fine for this. I wouldn't have any problem putting SuperTech oil and filter on it. But no more MMO.

Also, replace the PCV valve and check the lines to see if they are clogged. If the engine has a PCV problem, new oil won't fix it.

Take a good look at the oil if you change it next week. If it looks and smells nasty, then I would suggest changing it in a few weeks to see if the PCV valve change helped.
 
Originally Posted By: C4Dave
If it were me, I would not use MMO to "clean" the sludge. You are asking for trouble. It is not recommended by any car manufacturer, and if something goes wrong it's your fault. No good deed goes unpunished.

I would change the oil and filter again on my dime when you get the car early next week. Mobil 5000 and Fram are fine for this. I wouldn't have any problem putting SuperTech oil and filter on it. But no more MMO.

Also, replace the PCV valve and check the lines to see if they are clogged. If the engine has a PCV problem, new oil won't fix it.

Take a good look at the oil if you change it next week. If it looks and smells nasty, then I would suggest changing it in a few weeks to see if the PCV valve change helped.



This is from someone with about 45 years experience seeing MMO resolve sludge issues in engines. I would use it if it were my car, but I would be listening for valve lifter tick and other internal noises that might indicate blockages every time it runs and I would plan on replacing the filter - if not the oil, MMO and filter - at about 500 miles, or sooner if noises develop. If I didn't have that level of control over the situation and couldn't trust the driver to be observant, I'd leave the MMO out and run a good high detergent oil [Rotella for me, but there are others] through one or more short OCI oil/filter changes after servicing the PCV system to clean it up that way before considering MMO to finish the cleaning.

I have experience, from the 1960s when I worked as a teenager in my father's shop, cleaning out sludge like is described here with the valve cover and oil pan off the engine working on them with a putty knife, a wire brush and a big can of something called "Gunk." I don't think it is nearly as easy getting oil pans off of modern engines as it was back then, but that was a good way of getting rid of major sludge.

The point "no good deed goes unpunished" should be well taken.
 
Call in a two cycle AutoRX treatment.

Drop the oil pan afterwards, solvent-parts-bench clean it, and replace the gasket. Make sure to shoot photos of it. (actually you can omit the oil pan drop, i would just love to see the pics)

I am wondering if there was anyway many members could pool there money...find a dirty pan, reinstall it, run ARX, and then shoot later pics....to affirm or disavow the doubters of this product.

Your engine is filthy, no controversy here. Good luck, Neutra can also help you before or after an ARX cycle.

auto-rx.com
 
Fellas, tonight I had a chance to visit my GF's friend and I took a quick look at her car, and I am surprised to see the sludge level drastically reduced...

She has been moved to a new location at her job so she now travels around 25mi each way to work and from work.

When I first opened the oil cap, you couldn't see the opening down the the valves/cams, now there clearly is less sludge, and the oil still seems fairly clean... its starting to turn slightly brown but not bad at all. Seems there is maybe 30%-50% less sludge then 500mi ago. Perhaps the M1 and MMO are doing their job.

Noticed her OCI Light comes on at 5K, which explains her extended OCIs on DINO oil...

I plan on swapping out the filters next Thursday, and I will try to hack the old one open to see what we find inside...

Here are some pics.

Dip Stick.
DSC04979.jpg


Oil Filler Neck.
DSC04975.jpg

DSC04973.jpg

DSC04974.jpg

DSC04976.jpg

DSC04978.jpg
 
Originally Posted By: Catera

Noticed her OCI Light comes on at 5K, which explains her extended OCIs on DINO oil...


The CEL, blinks at 4900 miles then stays on after 5K. Toyota recommends 5K OCIs for many of their engines.

She had to have done a lot more than 10K on DINO to fill that engine with sludge.

Thanks for sharing these pics.
 
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Originally Posted By: Catera
Fellas, tonight I had a chance to visit my GF's friend and I took a quick look at her car, and I am surprised to see the sludge level drastically reduced...

She has been moved to a new location at her job so she now travels around 25mi each way to work and from work.

When I first opened the oil cap, you couldn't see the opening down the the valves/cams, now there clearly is less sludge, and the oil still seems fairly clean... its starting to turn slightly brown but not bad at all. Seems there is maybe 30%-50% less sludge then 500mi ago. Perhaps the M1 and MMO are doing their job.


This doesn't make a great deal of sense to me. I could accept that the sludge is going away, but not at the same time that the oil is staying "clean". Even if the sludge is staying "sludgey" and accumulating in the filter in jelly form I'd still expect the oil to be getting nasty rapidly if any cleaning was going on.

Weird...
 
It's for the oil as a flush AS WELL as the gas....says something like run a pint for 500-1k miles before oil change. Folks on here have run for an entire OCI w/o incident - might be worth a try!
 
It was difficult to judge the cleanliness of the oil based on what was on the stained dip stick but it didnt look as dark as what my car does at a full OCI... looked still fairly clean maybe slightly brown, but not black just yet.

When I remove the current filter I will drain it and take pics...
 
I still think that engine can be cleaned up. Cheap dino, cheap filters and a few short OCI's with MMO. Re-reading this thread I would try a pint of MMO for a 1000 miles, dump it, using a cheap oil and filter. Then maybe try a qt of MMO for 1500 miles, again with cheap oil and a cheap filter. Then depending on how loaded up what filter is I would either do another 1500 mile run with a qt of MMO or extend it to 3000 miles, maybe checking the filter at the half way point. It would be a great experiment.
 
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