I have a new 2500HD 6.0 liter. I do some towing, about 5500 lb trailer. My other vehicles use Rottela-T 5w-40 synthetic. Is it O.K. to use this or should I use 5w-30 (mobil-1)? My manual calls for 5w-30. Will 5w-40 cause any harm?
'06 Chevy 2500HD 4x4 oil 5w-40 synthetic?
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The only harm may be an oil-related problem while under warranty using a heavier weight than what's listed in your owners manual. Is 5W-30 the only weight listed? No mention of the higher viscosity 0W-30?
Owners manual states: engine requires oil meeting GM standard GM6094M. 5w-30 is best for your engine. Do not use other viscosity oils such as 20w-50. In areas of extreme cold (-20 F), use either 5w-30 synthetic or an 0w-30 oil.
If you're going to do serious towing, find an oil that will remain in grade. Most of the dinos will thin to a SAE 20 quite quickly, and may not provide sufficient wear protection during heavy towing.
A good SAE 5W or 10W-30 synthetic that'll remain in grade will do the job. Mobil 1 10w-30, Pennzoil Platinum 10W-30, etc are all good choices at $20/5qt jug.
I would pass on Rotella 5W40. It is overkill for your application and may give you warranty difficulties in the event of an engine failure.
A good SAE 5W or 10W-30 synthetic that'll remain in grade will do the job. Mobil 1 10w-30, Pennzoil Platinum 10W-30, etc are all good choices at $20/5qt jug.
I would pass on Rotella 5W40. It is overkill for your application and may give you warranty difficulties in the event of an engine failure.
So which 5w-30 would be best for towing? I use M1 oil filters on the other trucks. Is this a good choice or is there better ones to use?
The new small blocks(4.8,5.3,6.0) appear to like a heavier oil. I use M1 T/SUV 5w40, and I tow a travel trailer. I would think where you live it would be fine. My nickels worth.
Found at an on-line auto-related magazine. May have been Hot Rod magazine. The article was about the Generation III GMC engines.
"Bearing clearances are tighter than traditional V-8s due to precise manufacturing tolerances, the use of modern thin oils, and aluminum’s high expansion rate as it heats up. Follow factory clearance recommendations, and don’t use heavy or single-weight oils or restrict oil to the top-end."
Can not verify the accuracy of the proclamation but if the internal clearances are less than engines of the past it is sumpthin' to consider.
"Bearing clearances are tighter than traditional V-8s due to precise manufacturing tolerances, the use of modern thin oils, and aluminum’s high expansion rate as it heats up. Follow factory clearance recommendations, and don’t use heavy or single-weight oils or restrict oil to the top-end."
Can not verify the accuracy of the proclamation but if the internal clearances are less than engines of the past it is sumpthin' to consider.
I have had 3 GMC 4x4 E. Cab trucks now with the 5.3L engines and used 5W-30 in all of them. Not a one to this day has ever needed any oil added to it and I go about 10,000 miles or 1 yr on synthetic oil (Amsoil HDD 5W-30).
Thanks for the info. Where can I find Amsoil HDD 5w-30?
I used to do some towing with a Silverado 2500 6.0L. By the time I got it the truck had over 60K on the clock. I didn't know the entire service history but all I ever saw was dealer-installed 5W-30 poured into that motor. That thing had the worst piston slap I've ever heard. Sounded like a diesel during AM startup. Cause and effect with the 5W-30? Who knows.
My current 5.3L GMC did not like 5W-30 when I tried the new Mobil Clean 7500. Way too noisy. I went to GC (Castrol Syntec 0W-30) and it's much better. At this point if I were using a GM Vortec V8 for any kind of towing, I'd be using synthetics that were slightly higher viscosity that what was recommended by the factory. But that's just me.
I'm in Larrytown, too. If you're interested in GC, check out the AutoZone in downtown L-ville, the one across from Sosebee's. They almost always have it but if they're out, the AZ on 29 in Lilburn or the new store on Buford Hwy just north of Pleasant Hill Rd has it.
My current 5.3L GMC did not like 5W-30 when I tried the new Mobil Clean 7500. Way too noisy. I went to GC (Castrol Syntec 0W-30) and it's much better. At this point if I were using a GM Vortec V8 for any kind of towing, I'd be using synthetics that were slightly higher viscosity that what was recommended by the factory. But that's just me.
I'm in Larrytown, too. If you're interested in GC, check out the AutoZone in downtown L-ville, the one across from Sosebee's. They almost always have it but if they're out, the AZ on 29 in Lilburn or the new store on Buford Hwy just north of Pleasant Hill Rd has it.
bretfraz,Thanks for the info. I don't have piston slap - yet, only 2300 miles so far. But a mechanic at the GC dealership told me (off the record) that Militec-1,I think he said 8 ounces, added to the oil has stopped the ticking. Has any one heard of militec-1? Is it an oil additive?
I have a 2004 5.3L and it did not like M1 at all. The engine got very noisy at 4K miles. I am now using M1 EP 10W30 and it has held up very well. I tow with it and drive it fully loaded in the mountains pretty often. I was going to try M1 T&SUV until I had such good success with the M1 EP. The 5.3L engine runs smooth and quiet with it.
I am going to try M1 EP 5W30 (for winter) at my next oil change in a few weeks. I currently have about 6K on the M1EP 10W30 and plan to let it go 7-8K miles. I am going to send a sample for UOA and then begin using the GM OLM with these M1EP oils.
I wouldn't recommend regular M1 for your 6.0L engine, but you might want to look at the EP formulas. It is more expensive, but it holds its viscosity better and seems to work well in my engine. Plus you can find it at any location and leave it in for longer OCIs to offset some of the cost.
I am not ready to jump on the M1EP bandwagon entirely, but I really like it so far. I will wait for the UOA to see the actual results.
I am going to try M1 EP 5W30 (for winter) at my next oil change in a few weeks. I currently have about 6K on the M1EP 10W30 and plan to let it go 7-8K miles. I am going to send a sample for UOA and then begin using the GM OLM with these M1EP oils.
I wouldn't recommend regular M1 for your 6.0L engine, but you might want to look at the EP formulas. It is more expensive, but it holds its viscosity better and seems to work well in my engine. Plus you can find it at any location and leave it in for longer OCIs to offset some of the cost.
I am not ready to jump on the M1EP bandwagon entirely, but I really like it so far. I will wait for the UOA to see the actual results.
I have a 2001 with the 8.1 and have used Mobil 1 in it since I've had it (35K). I've had a couple UOAs done and my choice of oil is working well.
I mix 5 quarts of 10w-30 with 2 quarts of 15W-50. It was someone here that reccomended the mix but I can't remember who.
I tried the 10w-30 by itself but my truck was using too much for my liking (1/2-1 quart between changes) With the addition of the 15W-50 my truck doesn't use any oil now.
IMO the Rotella would be fine in your truck. In fact when I'm out of the M1 I stocked up on,I have been thinking of trying the Rotella. Its a pretty good deal if you buy it at Walmart,IIRC its about $13 for 5 qts.
I mix 5 quarts of 10w-30 with 2 quarts of 15W-50. It was someone here that reccomended the mix but I can't remember who.
I tried the 10w-30 by itself but my truck was using too much for my liking (1/2-1 quart between changes) With the addition of the 15W-50 my truck doesn't use any oil now.
IMO the Rotella would be fine in your truck. In fact when I'm out of the M1 I stocked up on,I have been thinking of trying the Rotella. Its a pretty good deal if you buy it at Walmart,IIRC its about $13 for 5 qts.
i heard of a similar mixture for the ls1's in the camaros. 4qts 10w30 and 2 qts of 15w50.
if you do decide to go with amsoil, please order from one of the three amsoil site sponsors, Pablo, Don Stefanik or msparks
if you do decide to go with amsoil, please order from one of the three amsoil site sponsors, Pablo, Don Stefanik or msparks
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