02 Passat 1.8T, 4492mi Castrol Syntec 0W/30 (GC)

[woodardhsd]

What do you guys think? I'm pretty happy considering the gamble I took on this car with no service history. I'm wondering if the fuel dilution is due to my wife's driving style; too much idling time, and not very much time in boost. Almost grandma style, but not quite.


Mike

 

[VeeDubb]

Thanks for posting. Was this mostly summer driving and what was the hwy/street driving split? This report is consistent with my last report on my 1.8T Passat with similar mileage. Fuel dilution was present, which lowered viscosity and increased oxidation and potential deposit formation. Your insolubles of .4 are relatively high for such low mileage.

 

[StoicDude]

The wear metals look fairly good, but the insolubles are a bit higher. What kind of oil filter do you use? OEM?

I have been getting fuel dilution consistently in my car. I dont know if it is the 1.8Ts that do it or the oil or what else is going on.

I usually shift my car below 3000 RPMS. Its not something that I really pay attention to, but because I commute in off hours I like using my cruise control and just taking it easy. The car gets good throttle application almost every day, and it goes close to redline at least 2 times a week, so I dont know if driving out of boost as naything to do with the fuel dilution.

 

[woodardhsd]

I am using the Mahle OC-105 filter, (the equivalent to the big kahuna, Mann W950/4). I'd say the mileage was split about 60% highway/40% city. The oil was in the car from the end of June to the 1st of September, the hottest months in eastern NC, August particularly.

Could the high insolubles be related to a minor sludge problem?

 

[RI_RS4]

Quote:

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Could the high insolubles be related to a minor sludge problem?

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In a 1.8T sludge monster? Most likely. Keep the oil changes coming frequently. In NC you don't need a 0W-30 either. A 5W-30, 5w-40, or even a more shear stable 10W-30 or 10W-40 would be more appropriate. Your dilution will get much worse in the winter.

 

[woodardhsd]

That sucks, but I'm not that worried because the top end looks pretty good with the valve cover off, and the oil pan seems to be pretty clean. No lifter noise and the cam chain adjuster is nice and quiet. It probably wasn't maintained as well as it should be by its previous owner.

Any specific oils you would recommend? Mobil 1 0W-40 and this GC are the only VW approved oils I can find around here, and they are tough to find. I'd rather not have to mail-order engine oil, but I will if it gets be a better one. I went with the GC because I'd heard of the Mobil 1 shearing worse than this stuff.

Would it be best to run something thicker during the summer, but run the GC in the winter when it's colder? Or should I stick to the same grade all year?

 

[VeeDubb]

The GC is a pretty thick 30 wt and probably almost the same viscosity as the m1 0w-40. I noticed that your mileage is at aronund 79K. Has the car received the 80k major service yet which includes new plugs, air filter, etc? If not, that may be part of your problem. The car may need a good tune up. You might also run a good fuel injector cleaner through.

 

[woodardhsd]

Car was bought used in Jan 07 w/68K. Spark plugs (NGK copper, the platinum PFR6Q's were hard to find), air filter, and oil change were done the first weekend (there was a small Wix filter on when I bought it). Since then I have replaced the entire PCV system, diverter valve, all 4 vacuum lines, the fuel filter, and the injecter o-rings, and replaces the coolant temp sensor. I also ran a tank of fuel treatment (cant remember which) through in May. I may try to put the OEM plugs back in shortly to see if the fuel improves this time around.

Can anyone recommend a good fuel treatment? What about fuel? My wife always fills up with teh cheap stuff (always 93, though)

 

[VeeDubb]

I've been using BioPlus by Renewable Lubes. RS_4 seems to have good success with it when he pulled his plugs at 25k. It's also cost effective. You use only one ounce for maintenance and 2 oz for cleanup. I got two 12 oz bottles with shipping for around $24. Much cheaper over the long run then Techron which requires a whole bottle for cleanup.

 

[Tones]

Report looks great. About the only negative as others have pointed out is the insolubles. This is probably due to fuel dilution and subsequent burn off. I use the FP60 in my Volvo turbo and really like it. The Volvos have a reputation for fuel dilution also. No fuel is found in my UOAs. The FP60 cleans and lubricates the injectors.

 

[blmqzjc]

Quote:

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Quote:

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Could the high insolubles be related to a minor sludge problem?

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In a 1.8T sludge monster? Most likely. Keep the oil changes coming frequently. In NC you don't need a 0W-30 either. A 5W-30, 5w-40, or even a more shear stable 10W-30 or 10W-40 would be more appropriate. Your dilution will get much worse in the winter.

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Could you elaborate as to why his location in NC is even pertinent? If I understand Dr. Haas correctly, you WANT to run the thinnest oil at startup as possible. I run M1 0w40 in FL in my 1.8T, and am switching from 10w30 to 5w30 in my Elantra based on Haas's writings.

Why is a lower pour point bad, whether he's in Alaska, NC, or on the equator for that matter? I agree with you that GC 0w30 is not particularly "needed", as it might be in a super cold climate, but it certainly can't hurt, and only help, right?

Appreciate your thoughts.

 

[dcoyne78]

I had a fuel dilute problem in my Prius and RLI Biosyn helped a lot, this is available in many different viscosities and Terry Dyson seems to think the products are excellent. Do a search on "Renewable Lubricants Inc", to check these out. Also note that sometimes Blackstone under reports fuel dilution so that it would concern me if they reported 1.0 for fuel dilution.

Dennis

 

[audi_guy]

woodardhsd,

Here my UOA's for M1 0w40 and GC Green in my 1.8t. They are for the same general time of the year and southern climate as your's. Given your UOA and mine, I'd say stay with the GC year round. That's what I'm doing and sleeping like a baby knowing the elvish elixir of life is protecting my 1.8t to Teutonic perfection.

http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...true#Post255884

 

[wgtoys]

Personally I wouldn't change a thing. Those are excellent wear numbers, which in the end is what is most important (assuming the engine isn't sludging up).

I would keep an eye on the insolubles, they may come down as your close attention to the car may be more than it enjoyed with the previous owner.

One thing I wonder about is whether or not the car had a good long run prior to it's oil change. Some people start a cold car, let it idle for a few minutes, then change the oil. That would be a set up for relatively high fuel dilution levels in the oil. If you are going to be worried about the fuel dilution reading then it is important to change the oil right after a good 20 minute or longer at speed run of the vehicle so that any fuel has a chance to evaporate off. In some cases it can take over 1/2 hour for the oil to get up to it's steady state high temperature range.

 

[woodardhsd]

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One thing I wonder about is whether or not the car had a good long run prior to it's oil change. Some people start a cold car, let it idle for a few minutes, then change the oil. That would be a set up for relatively high fuel dilution levels in the oil. If you are going to be worried about the fuel dilution reading then it is important to change the oil right after a good 20 minute or longer at speed run of the vehicle so that any fuel has a chance to evaporate off. In some cases it can take over 1/2 hour for the oil to get up to it's steady state high temperature range.

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Maybe I should have run the car a little longer before I did the change. I picked the car up from my wifes work and drove it the 5 miles (55mph hwy) to the house and immediately put it on the ramps and drained the oil. Should I run it a little longer the next time?

 

[audi_guy]

Quote:

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Maybe I should have run the car a little longer before I did the change. I picked the car up from my wifes work and drove it the 5 miles (55mph hwy) to the house and immediately put it on the ramps and drained the oil. Should I run it a little longer the next time?

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I would. My 1.8t takes at least 10 miles at hwy speed to get the oil to operating temperature.

ag

 

[rustlerdude]

Keep the oil changes 5k and under for this engine. As everyone knows it is prone to sludge the oil pickup screen. Just because the top end looks good does not mean the pickup screen isnt getting clogged. The only two methods of resolving this sludge problem is droping the pan and replacing the pick up tube or auto rxing it before the oil light comes on.