Search results

Weird, I don't see it when I visit the site or even by typing in the P/N.

From my observations, there are plenty of V6 designs over the years that last just fine, run smooth, and get good MPG. There are plenty of other examples but the Buick 3800 proved that point by itself, long ago. However, historically there are even more I-4 designs that are darn good engines...

AFAIK there's no OE upgraded part for the lifters that will almost certainly tick by 150K. No OE revised part for GM 6Lx0 torque converters that burn the TC clutch out in as little as 60-70K miles or AFM lifters that just, stick in their compressed position and require disassembly of the whole...

Thank you. In the case of just generally poorly-made things (not just a bad batch, etc.) the blame lies on the company designing the product and dictating the specs and quality, not the company in another country contracted to make it.

Especially with something like the Grand National, the only thing keeping any GN-specific parts available at this age is enthusiast demand. It's predictable/understandable that the majority of support for a car like that would move to aftermarket if not niche specialist - I'm heavy in those...

Basic technology involving the primary components was a major factor then. Metallurgy, lubrication, etc. There were a few exceptions - Mercedes, for one, was achieving modern-day longevity from a majority of their powertrains designed in the 70's. That's a tiny fraction of the limitation to...

I think this "evolving precedent", if you will, for durability of original parts and availability/quality of their replacements is evidence to support my opinion that we, the consumer, are being taken advantage of to a perpetually greater degree by the manufacturers.

I know Trax/Encore aren't one of GM's best sellers, but it's far from a truly rare model.

I've been a small town, solo mechanic since 2016. Work on a little bit of everything, lots of semi-new and some old. The other day a repeat customer dropped off their 2017 Buick Encore because the wipers (that had only worked on high for several months) quit altogether. Looked up the wiring...

I haven't seen a truly high number of vehicles meeting this criteria so it's more of a casual observation, but the rear main seal seems to have a much higher rate of starting to leak above 250K.

1981-83 Mercedes 240D. Hands down.

Inherent fear of turbochargers/engines with them is a 20+ year old mindset. There are plenty of N/A engines with chronic issues, and a good percentage of boosted designs that prove very reliable. It all depends on the specific design aka how much of a crap the manufacturer gave about it...

Not ideal but I don't consider that high. Zero or near-zero oil consumption is something you can get lucky with but can't be counted on from a new, run-of-the-mill consumer car. Especially if you only follow the recommended OCI's and, in some cases, oil spec. I bought a Chevy Cruze new in...

A lot of vehicles don't need more than their value (or, especially, replacement cost) spent on them to get where that truck is at, in the shape it's in. The operator just needs to understand what causes critical wear/what doesn't, what's money wasted on maintenance and what isn't, and realize...

I have to think they are comprehensively the better for it.

Black diesel is one name for waste motor oil turned into fuel.

Looking for recommendations where to send a sample from my first batch of black diesel to get some data on how well my setup is filtering, and the lubricity (HFRR) of my initial blend. Suggestions?

The fear of a thinner oil is that it doesn't keep a good enough oil film between the parts to prevent metal/metal contact. That the wear numbers are so consistent between high-quality 5W40's and the 30 weights indicates that's not a concern in this engine. The blacked out column is an old...

Second run of a 10w30 in this engine, continuing to debunk the fear of 30 weights and thin 40 weights in these engines. Other columns (L to R) are Schaeffer's 5/40, M1 euro 0/40, Schaeffer's 5/40 in my other 617, and T5 10/30.

Rotella T4/5, Valvoline Blue, or Motorcraft (all diesel formulations) 10w30, 15w40 if it burns quite a bit. Those have enough zinc, with more appropriate additives for daily use and cleaning up/keeping the engine clean than "classic" or "racing" oils. Cheaper and, in most places, easier to find...