06 F250 6.0 5k on truck 2200 on Delvac 1300 15w40

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My first diesel and first oil analysis. Blackstone ran the analysis. I changed breakin oil at 2800 miles and filled with Mobil Delvac 1300 15w40. Took this sample at 5,000 miles on truck so this analysis has 2200 miles on it. I wanted to kind of set a baseline. I run a lot of short trips only 2 miles to/from work. Some towing of 4500#.

First # is my oil, after dash is Universal avg.

Aluminum 2 - 3
Chromium 1 - 1
Iron 16 - 24
Copper 21 - 4
Lead 6 - 3
Tin 4 - 1
Moly 34 - 21
Nickel 0 - 0
Manganese 1 - 0
Silver 0 - 0
Titanium 0 - 0
Potassium 4 - 4
Boron 32 - 32
Silicon 42 - 11
Sodium 0 - 3
Calcium 2547 - 3115
Magnesium 354 - 77
Phosphorous 1289 - 1093
Zinc 1350 - 1248
Barium 0 - 2
TBN 7.4 - "High according to Blackstone"
Flashpoint 405 - >415
Fuel 1.0% - Antifreeze 0 - 0
Water 0 - 0
Insoluables 0.3 -
Questions I have:

1. Will a long drive maybe once/week reduce the amount of fuel in oil or once it is there it stays.

2. The high Silicon from the sand casting of the block?

3. TBN kind of low for only 2200 miles on the oil?

4. I am going to add an Oilguard bypass filter and would like to extend OCI to at least 10,000 miles. Should I go with synthetic? With the high shearing of the 6.0 I am thinking the bearing tests on here favor Shaefers 7000 or 9000 would be best for the 6.0 Powerstroke.

5. Where is the high copper from?

I live in Tampa Bay so mostly hot weather. One trip/year to WV in winter. Otherwise no cold weather operation. Any tips/help/advice greatly appreciated!
 
Congrats on the new truck. Your readings are normal for the type service and a new truck. Your silicon is normal at this point.

With those short trips you may need to take a week end drive. Agressive comes to mind when entering an on ramp. (I had to do this last night by choice, with speed limiter removed by chip programming.)
 
quote:

Originally posted by 59 Vetteman:
(I had to do this last night by choice, with speed limiter removed by chip programming.)

by choice my dairy-air
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lol.gif

Red-Line-Tony
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[ March 03, 2006, 05:47 PM: Message edited by: 59 Vetteman ]
 
What was the viscosity reading for this sample?

1) Yes, but the 6.0 engine is known for fuel dilution problems. I think they've fixed it for 06, so yours is probably caused by the short trips. A long drive on the highway weekly would help.

2) Yes. Its also from gasket leaching.

3) Yes, but its due to the fuel dilution and the new engine. New engines can be harder on oil during break-in.

4) I would leave out the OilGuard Bypass filter, personally. If I were to use one, I'd use the Amsoil (element) or Motorguard (TP). People have had better results with the latter, but the TP filters require frequent change out (2-3K) and the amount of make-up oil needed over a long drain due to the frequent TP changes is ridiculous. If you're going to do long drains, stick with the Amsoil elements. Amsoil is soon launching a kit for the 6.0 system within a few months, so give them more time. I'd personally run dino until 10K on the engine to allow for the silicon and wear values to drop further.

Redline 15w40 is probably the most shear stable in this application, period. The Ester basestocks are very shear stable. Schaeffer's is good but all of the 5W40 I've seen in the PSD have fared no better viscosity wise than other dinos. However, though viscosity is important, wear is still fine despite oil shearing down to the 10cst range, so I wouldn't worry too much about it.

Schaeffer's 15W40 or 5W40 is your best choice in FL for 10K drains. I wouldn't use a bypass filter, personally, as its unneeded. I'd also stick to 7500 mile drain intervals while under warranty.
 
quote:

I wouldn't use a bypass filter, personally, as its unneeded.

You had me until you said that. Why wouldn't you recommend a bypass oil filter? A Motor Guard initial setup is relatively inexpensive. A bypass oil filter keeps particles from floating around in your oil causing excessive wear, your oil stays cleaner which extends drain time and keeps TBN high. Insolubles are removed (goes back to particles being removed).

From what I can tell you state that make up oil is excessive during TP change, which is your reasoning for not recommending a bypass filter? I change out my roll of TP and add 3/4's of a quart of oil and I'm topped back off. That doesn't seem excessive.
 
Well, if you're adding 3/4 qt of oil every 2500 miles (or so), over a 10K drain, you'll be replacing 25% of the original oil.

Plus, what if the original poster did not do a good job with installing his bypass filter, and he reduces the oil flow?

Although bypass filters are quite durable (parts wise), I personally believe in the "simpler is better" theory, as in fewer things can go wrong. One reason why I've personally held off on bypass filters is the unfortunate event of a family member borrowing the vehicle, and during that time a hose fails, and all of the oil is evacuated from the system.
 
Now what do I do? Flip a coin? My personal opinion is the bypass, even the Oilguard system is a good idea.

Stands to reason though that a bypass filter could skew UOA results which could possibly mask a problem for a while...

The SUS viscosity @ 100C was 65.9. The comments said it had sheared to a 30W.

Some people have upgraded to SST braided oil lines which should improve reliability.

Not intending to start a war here, just want to do what's best for my truck at a reasonable cost.

Thanks for any "constructive" input. I consider everyone's opinions and then form my own.
 
After two more drains with 15w40 dino at 3K intervals, run your desired oil for the desired drain interval. Analyze the oil again, and see if the results require the usage of a bypass filter. More than likely, the bypass filter would not be necessary for you to achieve your desired drain interval.
 
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