Ford Escape trans service

[oilboy123]

I have a friend that wants to change his trans fluid. I forgot the year.
Do all the Escapes take mercon V fluid? I believe it is just front wheel drive.

Do any of you service your own by the drain plug route. The filter is not supposed to be user servicable. So it looks like a drain only or a line flush. Is this correct?

My Ford service DVD said to drain out the fluid and replace with 3.9 qts Mercon. Does not say Mercon V.
Thanks for any info

 

[drewjp]

I believe Mercon V can be used wherever Mercon is specified. I believe it is a newer, better version. Much like ATF+4 vs. ATF+3...

My sister has an Escape, but luckily, the previous owner did a tranny service right before he sold it!

 

[bdai]

Only the newest Escapes, 2007 and 2008, came with Mercon V from the factory. Older Escape will have Mercon/DexIII fluid. You may or may not have shudder issues if you switch to Mercon V, but in my opinion, I would stick with straight Mercon, especially if you aren't doing a flush.

You're right, filter replacement requires a complete transmission teardown and isn't included in normal maintenance. I usually service via the drain plug (takes 3/8" extension) and fill with 3.5 qts, then top off while doing a running level check. I recently did a full flush while switching over to Dexron VI, using a method developed by members of another Escape board. I won't advocate Dexron VI yet, as I only have 400 km on it, but I don't have any problems to report either.

Here's the DIY flush procedure:

Quote:

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Originally posted by prowler
1. Remove drain plug and drain 3.9 quarts.
2. Install 7 quarts.
3. Pump out 6 quarts.
4. Top off with approx. 3 quarts.

Draining and replacing the 4 quarts from the pan before the flush is started is the key. The tranny will never run dry this way.

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[ewetho]

Latest Ford Fluid is

Mercon, MerconV, DexronIII H Spec

Replacing Mercon with MerconV.

When servicing the Escape in the shop it is always MerconV. No issues yet. Actually they seem happier with V.

 

[dgreen]

I just do drain and fills on my parent's 06 Escape. I drain about 3.9 qts through the drain plug, and add 3.9 back about every 6 months. 5 extra minutes when I change the oil, about $10 extra each time. $20 per year to keep a fairly week tranny running strong.

Whatever you do, remind your friend to be sure and perform some type of service on a regular basis. Good Luck.

 

[dgreen]

Sorry I forgot to add, I use dino Castrol Merc/DexIII.

 

[oilboy123]

Thanks for the info.

With the line flush do you do it near the trans cooler or at the trans?
What type of connection is it? Quick connect or rubber hose.

 

[Roger]

With the Escape up on ramps, remove the drivers-side black plastic underbelly pan. This way you can see the 2 hoses running to the transmission from the radiator tranny cooler. There are 2 black rubber hoses running from the cooler in the front of the car. Each one attaches to a metal tube that attaches to fittings on the transmission. The tube attached to the front of the transmission is the outlet (i.e. fluid is discharged from the transmission here). The fitting in the rear of the transmission (and also closest to the front wheel) is the inlet (i.e. fluid enters the transmission here). To flush the transmission and the external cooler, you need to disconnect the rubber hose from the metal pipe that connects to the rear of the transmission (the inlet). Simply remove the hose clamp with pliers.

 

[bdai]

To add to that, I find it easier to jack up the driver's side of the car for a transmission flush. That way, with the wheels removed, the inlet hose is staring you right in the face, and it's easier to see all the bolts and the single plastic screw holding the splash guard on. Also, since you're down there, remove all the 10-mm bolts holding on the splash guards and apply some anti-seize. I had one bolt rust to the fitting and rip right out of the plastic when I tried to remove it, after only two years of owning the car.

 

[Big Jim]

I bought about six feet of clear plastic hose from the local hardware store and attach it as noted above then drop it into a 5 gallon plastic bucket.

I took the time to calibrate the bucket. I filled the bucket one quart at a time and marked the side with each quart up to fifteen quarts.

Using the calibrated bucket with the hose extended into it, I pull the trans dipstick, insert a trans funnel, have an assistant start the car and I feed oil into the funnel at the same rate as it comes out. If I fall behind, I have my assistant shut it down while I catch up.

The Escape holds 10 quarts of fluid. I put 11 quarts through it.

I change the add on filter at the same time. reconnect the trans hose, start the engine and adjust the fluid level as needed. If I didn't have a filter to change, the fluid level would be exact due to measuring what came out.

Even with removing the shield for access and cleaning up when done its only a half hour job.

If the old fluid is really crummy, allow two to five extra quarts to get a good flush. You should flush until the fluid coming out is as pristine as the fluid going in. Most of the time that will only need the same quantity as the shop manual calls for or maybe one or two more.

 

[onion]

I got a question about that sort of transmission flush- I've heard it described lots of times around here. I know that on most transmissions I've worked on (tractors and heavy equipment), the transmission oil generally runs through the higth pressure circuits (of whatever sort) first, then through the cooler at a reduced pressure, then back into the transmission through the lube circuit. I'm pretty sure most automotive transmission are set up similarly. So when you do this sort of bucket flush... aren't you essentially running the transmission without any lube oil for however long it takes to pump those 11 quarts? Seems like that wouldn't be good for it.

 

[bdai]

No, you're adding fluid to the pan as it's being pumped out, so you never run dry. It's the same concept as those "flush machines" in a dealership, except you're doing all the measuring yourself.

 

[Drew2000]

I have used a 2-bucket method for flushing. The escape has a tranny plug, so dump the oil and replace 1 gallon.

Extend the inlet and outlet cooler lines, one in each bucket. Dump about four gallons of ATF in the bucket with the return line to the tranny. Start car, move shifter through the gears a few times. Stop car when fresh oil bucket is almost empty. Check ATF level per mfgs. instructions and adjust if needed. Discard old oil properly.

This method will completly change out the crummy old fluid and ensure the tranny never runs low on oil during flush.

Drew

 

[onion]

Quote:

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No, you're adding fluid to the pan as it's being pumped out, so you never run dry. It's the same concept as those "flush machines" in a dealership, except you're doing all the measuring yourself.

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I know that you're adding fluid to the pan as it's being pumped out... and it's true that the PUMP never runs dry using this method. Thing is, unlike those "flush machines" at the dealership... the oil is dumping straight from the cooler line and into a bucket. Therefore, no fluid is going back INTO the transmission (from the cooler- not the dipstick tube) to lube various bearings, shafts, bushings, clutch packs, etc. Seems to me that that isn't very good for the tranny.

A "flush machine" pumps new fluid back in as the old stuff is pump out- hence the transmission has proper lubrication during the flush.

 

[oilboy123]

I have never done the suck out of a container method. I like the fact that it is straight forward.

You might be on to something. That is something I might try...........so the suction line is in the fresh bucket.

I see....Hmm

I might have him do an Auto-rx dose before the flush, he mentioned that he had some shudder in the trans...... Then maybe Amsoil.

 

[oilboy123]

As long as there is fluid in the trans pan your pump has fluid pressure. So no harm ho foul.

 

[onion]

It ain't that simple... and I see that I'm making precious little progress in my stint as a prophet of transmission doom.

First of all- a transmission cooler line will not "suck" in any literal sense. Period. Try it if you want, but you're wasting time and buckets.

Second- yes, your pump will have pressure. That pressure normally pushed the fluid through the main pressure circuit, where it CAN branch off to engage band/clutches if you're 'in gear'. This pressure is regulated by a valve of one sort of another- it varies by make/model. After said valve, that pressure pushes the fluid through the torque converter, then through the transmission cooler, then back into the transmission through the lube circuit- where assorted bearings, bushings, shafts, gears, and thingys that need oil are lubricated.

Now, Class- take note of that last step. Notice again- after the transmission cooler, the fluid goes back into the transmission through the lube circuit- where assorted bearings, bushings, shafts, gears, and thingys that need oil are lubricated.

Now, if one were to disconnect a transmission line and run it into a bucket... then oil would not flow back into the transmission through the lube circuit- where assorted bearings, bushings, shafts, gears, and thingys that need oil are lubricated.

Seems like this wouldn't be very good for a transmission- to run without proper lubrication.

 

[SWHeat]

Where in said "circuit" does it mention the transmission oil pan? I mean does it cool the trans before to oil drops into the pan? Or, does it drop to the pan, go through the filter to cool the trans? I think it depends on the make and model if I'm not mistaken.

Either way. With the home method. You are only running the trans intermittently and under no load. I've done it three times on three different cars. No problems with any of them. Sweet way to do it yourself and get the fluid you want in it and make sure it is done right.

 

[Big Jim]

Quote:

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It ain't that simple... and I see that I'm making precious little progress in my stint as a prophet of transmission doom.

First of all- a transmission cooler line will not "suck" in any literal sense. Period. Try it if you want, but you're wasting time and buckets.

Second- yes, your pump will have pressure. That pressure normally pushed the fluid through the main pressure circuit, where it CAN branch off to engage band/clutches if you're 'in gear'. This pressure is regulated by a valve of one sort of another- it varies by make/model. After said valve, that pressure pushes the fluid through the torque converter, then through the transmission cooler, then back into the transmission through the lube circuit- where assorted bearings, bushings, shafts, gears, and thingys that need oil are lubricated.

Now, Class- take note of that last step. Notice again- after the transmission cooler, the fluid goes back into the transmission through the lube circuit- where assorted bearings, bushings, shafts, gears, and thingys that need oil are lubricated.

Now, if one were to disconnect a transmission line and run it into a bucket... then oil would not flow back into the transmission through the lube circuit- where assorted bearings, bushings, shafts, gears, and thingys that need oil are lubricated.

Seems like this wouldn't be very good for a transmission- to run without proper lubrication.

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I do know that this is a wide practice. The transmission is not under any real use during this kind of a flush. The only thing really spinning is the front pump. None of the gears are turning or the car would be moving. For the light load involved and the short time involved there just doesn't seem to be any damage. Cars that have had this style of trans flush are not dropping like flies and being towed back into the dealerships or shops that performed the work.

 

[EricZoom]

I would just do a drain-refill with the drain plug every other oil change like i do on my 04 Mazda6, and that should keep the fluid fresh.