Best oil for 2007 Repsol 1000rr?

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I just picked up a 2007 Repsol Edition CBR1000rr.

Owner's manual says to use 10W-30, but that in warmer weather, 10W-40 is ok.

Previously, I used Repsol full-synthetic 10W-50 in my 954rr and it worked great.

I live in Atlanta where is gets very hot and humid, and I wil be doing some track days here and there.

I do change the oil and filter every 1,000-1,500 miles. Yeah, I know that is excessive when using synthetic, but it makes me feel better, knowing that while I am out wailing on the bike, that the oil is fresh and clean.

So my question is, whould I just use 10W-40 like Mobil1 MX4T, or can I keep using the Repsol 10W-40 4T race formula with this new bike?

Will the 10W-50 cost me any HP? I know that if the oil is thicker at operating temp, that it might not flow as well and could increase oil pressure in some cases. But I think that synthetic oil flows better than dino oil at the same viscosity, does it not?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!
 
Correction, I guess there is no edit feature here...

The Mobil1 is 10W-40, the Repsol I am considering is 10W-50, not 10W-40.
 
my testing shows that mobil1 mx4t 10w40 will shear out of grade in less than 2 hours. good luck with that!

however, motul 5100 10w50 held up.

your bike, your choice.
 
I believe they recommend a 10w30 for increased power output. I personaly would use Amsoil 20w50 for your application which would be MUCH more shear stable. You don't need the cold cranking characteristics of a 10wXX oil.
 
That's what I thought. Who makes a decent 10W-30 synthetic?

As far as sheer stability goes, I change the oil every 1,000 miles or so, religiously, give or take a hundred miles.

So longevity is not a concern as that oil is only in there a short time.

I want the best protection, but I want the performance as the manufacturer intended.

But I don't see any 10W-30 synthetic motorcycle oil at any of the dealers or shops that I go to.
 
I'm sure a Honda dealership will soon sell you their new Synthetic 10W-30 if you feel you need it. Unless your bike actually spec's some arcane oil beyond JASO MA? The Repsol 1000RR is mechanically identical to other 2007's?

Unless you are actually racing this bike on a track it is almost impossible that you would ever, under any possible circumstance (well... maybe if you were racing in Nome when the temp was -20 F) be able to notice any difference between any 10W-30, 10W-40 or 20W-50 oil, certainly not when the bike was at operating temp.

1,000 mile oil changes on street bikes, after the 1st one, are meaningless, IMHO. For this interval you could use dino: Suzuki has a 20W-40 that's pretty reasonable (or USED to be so).

The fact that some people run their oil for 150 miles and then change it and get an O/A done only proves that carbon-based life forms on this, the 3rd planet from the Sun, typically operate on a bell-shaped curve...

I would suggest any of the Amsoil AME 15W-40, AMO 10W-40 or their regular 20W-50 Synthetic would be optimal for 3K intervals.

You can change the oil & filter every time you ride the bike if you wish: drain the gas tank, too. Air filter?

New tires every time you ride would always be nice. Be SURE you scrape them up a little bit 1st as they can kill you until the factory finish is worn off!

Cheers!
 
No need to be condescending. I am meticulous in the care of my bikes, that's all. An ounce of prevention...

I know that I change the oil more than is needed. I don't care.

All I really need to know is if the Repsol 10W-50 Full synthetic race formula is a good choice for my new toy. :)
 
Then what do I need?

You say I do not need 10W-xx oil. The manual calls for 10W-30 or 10W-40 if you live in a hot part of the country.

So would that not indicate that I need 10W-XX oil?

The Repsol is $40 for a 1 gallon jug. This isn't about price, I just want to know if it's a good oil for this bike as I already have some sitting here.
 
The race bikes we prep (600's and ducati's mostly) get 30w redline which is rated 10w30. Not saying it's the best oil but we've seen thicker oils sump on the dyno and the 30w makes more power. I believe Honda is starting to spec 10w30w on some of the newer engines because the tolerances are tighter.

Those litrebikes are REALLY hard to get the rings to take a set on the street. There are so darn fast and light it's hard to load the motor and stay alive and keep your license. Many also use very hard bore coating and low tension rings. Not unusual to take 10k miles or more to fully seat the rings, they often use a little oil in the meantime and don't make full power. Not unusual to see them make more power at 20k than they do new. There's an ongoing debate about synthetics and break-in, so depending on what side of the debate your on with this you might consider skipping the synthetics until you get her run in good.
 
Repsol had a deal where you got a Repsol T-shirt, cap and a poster if you bought 4 quarts. My biggest draw to use that product.

My first choice would be one of the top oils in this 26 oil/10 ASTM test at http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf . If the manual specifies 10W40, I'd go that route.

However, Amsoil makes a Formula 4-stroke Small Engine oil 10W30 that meets JASO MA/MB for wet motorcycle clutches. Info found at http://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g2217_rev9_06.pdf . It does not specifically list motorcycles, but the specs look good. VI=146, Flash point = 457F, Fire Point 493, Noack volatility = 4.1, HTHS = 3.25, TBN = 8.4. You might call Amsoil Tech Support at (715) 399-TECH and see if any motorcycles are using this. A site sponsor can get you this in a few days.
 
Sorry if I was condescending...

Actually, if it actually takes 10K miles (wileyE) to break in a new engine nowadays it is dang (durn? D***!?) sure there will be a bunch of used bikes available with their engines NOT BROKEN IN YET!

I recall reading that the average motorcycle never even SEES 10K! Almost all the ads for used Harleys around here all have two things in common: mileage is less than 2-3K on 'em and they always include something like "...$19,565 invested, best offer over $16K".

Seriously, the advantages of synthetic vs. dino must be SO small in the 1st thousand miles of an OCI as to be virtually negligible.

Cheers!
 
I would take a serious look at the Redline website and contact their oil tech there. They make excellent racing products. They will have a solution for you(maybe 2 possibilities).
 
Quote:


Sorry if I was condescending...

Actually, if it actually takes 10K miles (wileyE) to break in a new engine nowadays it is dang (durn? D***!?) sure there will be a bunch of used bikes available with their engines NOT BROKEN IN YET!

I recall reading that the average motorcycle never even SEES 10K! Almost all the ads for used Harleys around here all have two things in common: mileage is less than 2-3K on 'em and they always include something like "...$19,565 invested, best offer over $16K".

Seriously, the advantages of synthetic vs. dino must be SO small in the 1st thousand miles of an OCI as to be virtually negligible.

Cheers!




Drain a Harley Vtwin at 100 miles sometime. You won't believe the amount of debris. The dino oil won't really make ANY difference in 1000 miles. In fact many people prefer it because it allows initial wear in sooner. But I like synthetic break in because it actually extends the initial wear period from what I can tell by a factor of almost 2. So I multiply break in miles by 2 when breaking in with syn. Maybe I am just anal about breaking in a new engine.
smirk.gif
 
So, in the spirit of the original question, is the Repsol 4T 10W-50 a decent oil to use in this bike in an area like Atlanta where it gets really freakin hot in the summer?
 
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