The Importance Of Filter Burst Strength>?

[ULVER]

I recently have read several articles, concerning the importance of canister burst strength. We hear so much about flow and filtering, but not too much along the lines of filter strength itself.

Most of the concern seemed to be with pressure spikes. I would guess this would be at start-up in cold weather? Or as the oil reaches a thicker nature in extreme heat? Or both?

Doing a bit more research, seemed to reveal that most see the Mobil 1 ($10-12) as just about the best made filter available. I've always liked the K&N. I believe both are made by Champion. Again, I'm talking canister strength.

In a totally unscientific bit of testing, I did a bit of filter squeezing, at a couple places. The Motorcraft 820, my Interceptor's OME, could be physically indented slightly, without a lot of effort. Sean Hyland Racing uses this filter on all the engines he builds, around the 4.6 motor, and likes them. He said he ad only seen one fail, and it was an internal problem, brought on by neglect.

I found three I thought were tough as nails, aside from the Mobil and K&N. They were an AC/Delco, a Bosch, and the wonder-cheapie Wal Mart's Super Tech. Let me guess: These are all basically the same filter.

Just curious, if pressure spikes, and canister strength is a legit area of concern?

 

[labman]

quote:

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Originally posted by ULVER:
They were an AC/Delco, a Bosch, and the wonder-cheapie Wal Mart's Super Tech. Let me guess: These are all basically the same filter.

Just curious, if pressure spikes, and canister strength is a legit area of concern?

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My hacksaw and tape measure say the Delco and ST may be similar, but the Delco has about 1 1/2 times as much filter area. Bosch?

Most filters are tucked up where it is safe. Certainly not an issue in my Ecotec.

 

[TC]

Some random filter max pressure spec's:
Fram PH3600: 250-300 psi
Fram HP-1: 500 psi
K&N HP2009: 550 psi
Wix 51515R: 500 psi
Mobil 1: 601 psi

All this is pretty moot. Engines typically produce 40-90 psi normal oil pressure at high RPM. Even accounting for pressure spikes and filter fatigue by tripling the higher number (and we're being truly overcautious here), one arrives in the 250-300 psi range, which even the lowly Frams achieve. So overpressuring an oil filter would almost always require a damaged shell or defective seam, or a faulty engine oil pressure bypass valve. As Labman suggested, another factor is exposure to debris, such as a filter exposed to the elements like Dennis Hopper's skull in "Easy Rider." Going to a thicker shell MIGHT be of significance for such exposed filters, although I suspect only modestly. In the Overboost.com study, Mobil 1 had the thickest shell at 0.0175", while PureOne had the thinnest at 0.0116".

 

[Gary Allan]

The only time I remember this being an issue, other than a defect, was in the 1970 (1970 1/2 for the Camaro) Boss 302 and Camaro Z/28 that were in direct comp with each other. They found that both of these engines ..off the show room floor could blow the filters apart. They then used HP1 and HP2 Frams @ $16 each at the time. Internal pressure reliefs aren't a foolprook set up if the vane area and the combo rpm and oil visc is too much for it to shunt.

 

[TallPaul]

I am looking at my '95 F150 owner's manual and for the 460 V8 it says to use the standard FL-1A, except for "Off Road/Severe Duty" use the FL-1HP. I believe the FL-1HP is a high burst strength filter.

 

[ediamiam]

I have an air-cooled 60's Porsche where stock oil filtration uses a bypass. On the engine rebuild a full-flow oil filtration system was installed. The recommended filter is the Fram HP1 because of the high startup oil pressures that occurs. There is a Purolator equivalent I will probably try at some point, and its nice to know that Wix has an offering in the same pressure range.

 

[JohnnyO]

On most street engines I don't think it would be a problem.

 

[unDummy]

If you damage the filter during the installation, I'm betting that burst strength might be something to worry about.

I have a simple rule with filters. If it has a dent or a dimple, throw it out. If you oversqueeze it, and it dimples but pops back(like a soda bottle), you just weakened that filter. Use a stronger brand or be more careful.

Also, don't rule out mfg defects. There are bound to be filters with built in damage that might cause the filter to pop.
Defective filter bypass, defective supplier filter media or metal sheets, defective oil pump or its pressure relief valve, dumb owner reving engine to limiter when cold, using 60wt oil during an artic winter........... can possibly cause a failed filter. But, I would think that coincidence would be the norm. Multiple issues need to work together to cause the filter to fail.

 

[sawed-off]

quote:

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Originally posted by ULVER:
I recently have read several articles, concerning the importance of canister burst strength. We hear so much about flow and filtering, but not too much along the lines of filter strength itself.

Most of the concern seemed to be with pressure spikes. I would guess this would be at start-up in cold weather? Or as the oil reaches a thicker nature in extreme heat? Or both?

Doing a bit more research, seemed to reveal that most see the Mobil 1 ($10-12) as just about the best made filter available. I've always liked the K&N. I believe both are made by Champion. Again, I'm talking canister strength.

Just curious, if pressure spikes, and canister strength is a legit area of concern?

---

You won't have any problems with a spin-on filter becoming a pipe bomb on a street car. Some of the race units have wire in their construction for just reasons. I know WIX has some, but I can't quote any part numbers. When you're at max pressure on and off for constant span of time, the cases can fatigue and fail.Then you factor in the heat, debris in the oil and such, then there you go. Most racers won't use a spin-on unless rules make them or their cost prohibits them from going with a dry sump.

 

[XS650]

quote:

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Originally posted by TC:
In the Overboost.com study, Mobil 1 had the thickest shell at 0.0175", while PureOne had the thinnest at 0.0116".

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Here's two more.

I just measured the shells from two Napa Golds I cut open a while ago.

1334, Honda applications
and
1036, GM applications

The both measure 0.016/0.017 inches thick.

The Fleetguard for the same GM application was a bunch thicker and stronger by feel, but I don't have one here to measure now.