Grabbed a bottle of Pennzoil Semi-Syn with an O-Reilly $5 off $5 coupon so I got a quart for $.52 OTD. Threw in one ounce and added 5.2 gallons ($20) of Mobil 87 octane to a nearly empty tank in the Montego. I will run this ratio all summer and keep track of my results. Currently my in-dash CPU is showing 21.0 MPG avg.
first dose of TCW3 today
- Thread starter dwcopple
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I applaud your additive approach as I do, however, if it's like my Corolla, you won't see much benefit in mileage. I view it as a maintainer. A combatant with the effects of ethanol. I see more results in the '86 B-2000, with a smoother idle and easier cold crank situation. I assume it's the lubrication of the carburetor. I'm using 1 oz per 5 gallons of fuel.
Oh, and I use the same Pennzoil Marine, TC-W3. I put it in the 2-cycle engines as well. No ill effects yet.
Oh, and I use the same Pennzoil Marine, TC-W3. I put it in the 2-cycle engines as well. No ill effects yet.
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You can get some Chevron pro-guard for $.42 after the $5 coupon also.
I'm going to run this as a maintenance/slow clean dose + UCL: ~6oz Chevron Pro-Guard + 2oz TCW3 per ~12gal fillups.
UCL + a bit of PEA for cleaning, and almost free with the O'reilly deal.
I'm going to run this as a maintenance/slow clean dose + UCL: ~6oz Chevron Pro-Guard + 2oz TCW3 per ~12gal fillups.
UCL + a bit of PEA for cleaning, and almost free with the O'reilly deal.
Originally Posted By: surfstar
You can get some Chevron pro-guard for $.42 after the $5 coupon also.
I'm going to run this as a maintenance/slow clean dose + UCL: ~6oz Chevron Pro-Guard + 2oz TCW3 per ~12gal fillups.
UCL + a bit of PEA for cleaning, and almost free with the O'reilly deal.
Just an FYI.. Techron Concentrate Plus has the highest concentration of PEA in the Techron lineup, does more. $6.50 Walmart. If you want it all in one bottle, as the name says Gumout all-in-one also has higher concentrations of PEA than Pro-Guard, does more including a heavy dose of friction modifier/UCL. Treats 35 gals. $7.XX Walmart
You can get some Chevron pro-guard for $.42 after the $5 coupon also.
I'm going to run this as a maintenance/slow clean dose + UCL: ~6oz Chevron Pro-Guard + 2oz TCW3 per ~12gal fillups.
UCL + a bit of PEA for cleaning, and almost free with the O'reilly deal.
Just an FYI.. Techron Concentrate Plus has the highest concentration of PEA in the Techron lineup, does more. $6.50 Walmart. If you want it all in one bottle, as the name says Gumout all-in-one also has higher concentrations of PEA than Pro-Guard, does more including a heavy dose of friction modifier/UCL. Treats 35 gals. $7.XX Walmart
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Just an FYI.. Techron Concentrate Plus has the highest concentration of PEA in the Techron lineup, does more. $6.50 Walmart. If you want it all in one bottle, as the name says Gumout all-in-one also has higher concentrations of PEA than Pro-Guard, does more including a heavy dose of friction modifier/UCL. Treats 35 gals. $7.XX Walmart
Yeah, I know the pro-guard is 'watered' down, but for $.42ea with this promo, it works great as a maintenance dose. I usually go with regane/AIO for full-dose cleanings as it is the best $/oz for PEA.
Just an FYI.. Techron Concentrate Plus has the highest concentration of PEA in the Techron lineup, does more. $6.50 Walmart. If you want it all in one bottle, as the name says Gumout all-in-one also has higher concentrations of PEA than Pro-Guard, does more including a heavy dose of friction modifier/UCL. Treats 35 gals. $7.XX Walmart
Yeah, I know the pro-guard is 'watered' down, but for $.42ea with this promo, it works great as a maintenance dose. I usually go with regane/AIO for full-dose cleanings as it is the best $/oz for PEA.
Originally Posted By: cancov
I applaud your additive approach as I do, however, if it's like my Corolla, you won't see much benefit in mileage. I view it as a maintainer. A combatant with the effects of ethanol. I see more results in the '86 B-2000, with a smoother idle and easier cold crank situation. I assume it's the lubrication of the carburetor. I'm using 1 oz per 5 gallons of fuel.
Science timeout. Look, there's a lot of badmouthing ethanol out there, but the only BAD thing it ever does is attack certain materials (polymers in gaskets and fuel lines) in older vehicles. If you've eliminated these materials from the fuel system, then ethanol isn't harming a darn thing, and in fact at the usual 10-15% ratio it will do a superb job of keeping moisture OUT of your fuel system and is also a good cleaning agent and octane booster. Similarly, if you still HAVE these materials in your fuel system for ethanol to attack, NO ADDITIVE is going to counter its effects.
I'm not much of an additive user and I make no secret of that, but I'll refrain from saying TCW3 is in any way bad or even that it doesn't do some good. I'm just saying that acting as "a combatant to the effects of ethanol" is not something that it does in any way, shape, or form. IF you think you're suffering bad effects from ethanol, the only solution is to re-gasket your carb and /or replace fuel lines with ethanol compatible materials. If your engine is electronically fuel injected and made in this century, its 99 and 44/100ths percent probable that it already has fully compatible materials.
I applaud your additive approach as I do, however, if it's like my Corolla, you won't see much benefit in mileage. I view it as a maintainer. A combatant with the effects of ethanol. I see more results in the '86 B-2000, with a smoother idle and easier cold crank situation. I assume it's the lubrication of the carburetor. I'm using 1 oz per 5 gallons of fuel.
Science timeout. Look, there's a lot of badmouthing ethanol out there, but the only BAD thing it ever does is attack certain materials (polymers in gaskets and fuel lines) in older vehicles. If you've eliminated these materials from the fuel system, then ethanol isn't harming a darn thing, and in fact at the usual 10-15% ratio it will do a superb job of keeping moisture OUT of your fuel system and is also a good cleaning agent and octane booster. Similarly, if you still HAVE these materials in your fuel system for ethanol to attack, NO ADDITIVE is going to counter its effects.
I'm not much of an additive user and I make no secret of that, but I'll refrain from saying TCW3 is in any way bad or even that it doesn't do some good. I'm just saying that acting as "a combatant to the effects of ethanol" is not something that it does in any way, shape, or form. IF you think you're suffering bad effects from ethanol, the only solution is to re-gasket your carb and /or replace fuel lines with ethanol compatible materials. If your engine is electronically fuel injected and made in this century, its 99 and 44/100ths percent probable that it already has fully compatible materials.
"I see more results in the '86 B-2000, with a smoother idle and easier cold crank situation. I assume it's the lubrication of the carburetor. I'm using 1 oz per 5 gallons of fuel. "
My '07 Grand Prix had the same symptoms. Gave it a try over a year ago. Now I use it every tank. Should I miss, the engine reminds me. Smoother idle and easier starting and not just for carburetors. Only car out of 5 that gets the treatment.
My '07 Grand Prix had the same symptoms. Gave it a try over a year ago. Now I use it every tank. Should I miss, the engine reminds me. Smoother idle and easier starting and not just for carburetors. Only car out of 5 that gets the treatment.
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Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Look, there's a lot of badmouthing ethanol out there, but the only BAD thing it ever does is attack certain materials (polymers in gaskets and fuel lines) in older vehicles.
Are we ignoring all the problems associated with phase separation of ethanol fuel??
Look, there's a lot of badmouthing ethanol out there, but the only BAD thing it ever does is attack certain materials (polymers in gaskets and fuel lines) in older vehicles.
Are we ignoring all the problems associated with phase separation of ethanol fuel??
Originally Posted By: Gabe
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Look, there's a lot of badmouthing ethanol out there, but the only BAD thing it ever does is attack certain materials (polymers in gaskets and fuel lines) in older vehicles.
Are we ignoring all the problems associated with phase separation of ethanol fuel??
Yes - and I guess we're also assuming that Ethanol isn't highly hydrophilic, readily absorbing moisture from the air and solubilizing any trace of water in storage tanks up to the point of phase separation.
And I guess we're also assuming that per v/v, Ethanol doesn't have a lower heat of combustion than hydrocarbons, resulting in less power output per gallon.
aaaaaaand while we're at it, I guess we're also assuming that resources otherwise allocated to food/foodsource production aren't diverted to ethanol production, resulting in increased food/foodsource production costs.
aaaaaaaaand we're also assuming that Ethanol was never highly subsidized by good ol' uncle sam, incentivizing the 10% blend beyond that which supply and demand could support at the time.
Yeah, assuming all those things, Ethanol is a great source of automotive fuel.
Now, science time-in...
After meticulously gauging fuel mileage over the course of 200,000 miles, my truck gets about 4-5% better mileage on 100% gasoline/0% ethanol, over the E10 blends. However, the 3 toyota corolla 1.8Ls I tracked over the course of 4 years did not seem to care one way or the other... I guess I'll just put the cheapest gas in the Corolla and put the 100% gas in the truck - no, wait, I can only get E10 in my area. So science is back on a time-out and politics is back in.
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Look, there's a lot of badmouthing ethanol out there, but the only BAD thing it ever does is attack certain materials (polymers in gaskets and fuel lines) in older vehicles.
Are we ignoring all the problems associated with phase separation of ethanol fuel??
Yes - and I guess we're also assuming that Ethanol isn't highly hydrophilic, readily absorbing moisture from the air and solubilizing any trace of water in storage tanks up to the point of phase separation.
And I guess we're also assuming that per v/v, Ethanol doesn't have a lower heat of combustion than hydrocarbons, resulting in less power output per gallon.
aaaaaaand while we're at it, I guess we're also assuming that resources otherwise allocated to food/foodsource production aren't diverted to ethanol production, resulting in increased food/foodsource production costs.
aaaaaaaaand we're also assuming that Ethanol was never highly subsidized by good ol' uncle sam, incentivizing the 10% blend beyond that which supply and demand could support at the time.
Yeah, assuming all those things, Ethanol is a great source of automotive fuel.
Now, science time-in...
After meticulously gauging fuel mileage over the course of 200,000 miles, my truck gets about 4-5% better mileage on 100% gasoline/0% ethanol, over the E10 blends. However, the 3 toyota corolla 1.8Ls I tracked over the course of 4 years did not seem to care one way or the other... I guess I'll just put the cheapest gas in the Corolla and put the 100% gas in the truck - no, wait, I can only get E10 in my area. So science is back on a time-out and politics is back in.
Originally Posted By: cancov
I applaud your additive approach as I do, however, if it's like my Corolla, you won't see much benefit in mileage. I view it as a maintainer. A combatant with the effects of ethanol. I see more results in the '86 B-2000, with a smoother idle and easier cold crank situation. I assume it's the lubrication of the carburetor. I'm using 1 oz per 5 gallons of fuel.
Oh, and I use the same Pennzoil Marine, TC-W3. I put it in the 2-cycle engines as well. No ill effects yet.
Pretty much.
Originally Posted By: Gabe
Adding marine two stroke oil to your car's gas tank to improve fuel economy is a dumb idea.
Spoken like a true expert. Now sit down son and let the adults talk.
I've found that adding tc-w3 and acetone to my fuel increases mileage and run times in every engine I put it in.
Not scientific however my wallet can tell the difference,as well as my monthly fuel bill since its decreased considering I get dyed fuel for my equipment.
Numbers don't lie,and when your running 18 small motors for 10-12 hours a day distributed over various crews you notice a difference when they are burning less gas. And tc-w3 seems to keep the rubber in the carbs from drying out.
Just my years of experience however make whatever assumptions you chose.
I applaud your additive approach as I do, however, if it's like my Corolla, you won't see much benefit in mileage. I view it as a maintainer. A combatant with the effects of ethanol. I see more results in the '86 B-2000, with a smoother idle and easier cold crank situation. I assume it's the lubrication of the carburetor. I'm using 1 oz per 5 gallons of fuel.
Oh, and I use the same Pennzoil Marine, TC-W3. I put it in the 2-cycle engines as well. No ill effects yet.
Pretty much.
Originally Posted By: Gabe
Adding marine two stroke oil to your car's gas tank to improve fuel economy is a dumb idea.
Spoken like a true expert. Now sit down son and let the adults talk.
I've found that adding tc-w3 and acetone to my fuel increases mileage and run times in every engine I put it in.
Not scientific however my wallet can tell the difference,as well as my monthly fuel bill since its decreased considering I get dyed fuel for my equipment.
Numbers don't lie,and when your running 18 small motors for 10-12 hours a day distributed over various crews you notice a difference when they are burning less gas. And tc-w3 seems to keep the rubber in the carbs from drying out.
Just my years of experience however make whatever assumptions you chose.
Originally Posted By: dwcopple
oh brother, what has this turned into...?
LOL, sorry if I took the thread off-topic ; )
I've used TC-W3 in several 4-stroke motors, everything from 140cc air-cooled lawnmowers to v-twin carb'd motorcycles to v-8 LSx engines. I certainly haven't noticed any ill effects, but I think mileage gains are highly dependent on the type of engine it is being used in.
oh brother, what has this turned into...?
LOL, sorry if I took the thread off-topic ; )
I've used TC-W3 in several 4-stroke motors, everything from 140cc air-cooled lawnmowers to v-twin carb'd motorcycles to v-8 LSx engines. I certainly haven't noticed any ill effects, but I think mileage gains are highly dependent on the type of engine it is being used in.
Originally Posted By: dwcopple
oh brother, what has this turned into...?
Nothing that I intended, that's for dang sure. So let's be crystal clear:
First and foremost, the ONLY thing I am saying which is directly germane to this thread is this: The simple fact is that a 2-stroke oil, regardless of its added fuel stabilizers and other benefits, WILL NOT "counter" ethanol effects on fuel system components (most of which are positive anyway- cleaning and keeping water in suspension so it doesn't corrode metal parts). Just replace the old incompatible fuel lines and gaskets. That's the only possible way to get rid of those side effects. Many of the other "effects" that are always blamed on ethanol (such as fuel degradation during storage) are true of ANY oxygenated fuel. Same thing happens with MTBE-boosted fuel, been there, done that- old MTBE gasoline smells like paint thinner and pours like napalm (ok, slight exaggeration) just like aged ethanol-boosted fuel does. Its just something we have to live with, so use TC-W3 as your long-term storage stabilizer if you want. Or Sta-Bil, or whatever. That's a good use of an additive.
Now for all the tangential arguments that have been brought up:
Of course ethanol produces slightly lower mileage, and I'm not advocating we all switch to E-85. I agree that ethanol is a BAD choice for a gasoline replacement. But again, science and engineering pressures demand that fuels capable of safely and effectively operating in modern engines with compression anywhere over 8:1 have to have some form of octane boosters and detergent additives, as well as oxygenates to meet emissions requirements. There are lots of options for that, but all have drawbacks and advantages, and many of them share ethanol's lower energy content per gallon. Picking one is a compromise, and its just part of what you suffer with to create a usable gasoline additive package. Looking at ONLY the engine/vehicle side of the equation, probably the best performing octane booster was tetraethyl lead, with methyl-manganse trycarbonyl close behind. But viewed from the negative side effects half of the equation, it was the worst. It aint coming back, we don't WANT it back, deal with it. For unleaded fuel the best performing cost-effective octane/oxygenate additive was MTBE, but its just a nasty substance with a long lifespan in the environment, and a propensity to get into groundwater. Its not as neurotoxic as TEL, but its tendency to get in the water makes it possibly even worse overall. Then there are various hydrocarbons that will boost octane rating, but they're expensive, don't address the need for oxygenate, and are derived from the same feedstock as the fuel itself. Ethanol in concentrations of 10-15% ("E-10" to "E-15") raises octane very well, breaks down if it gets in the environment, and is a good compromise overall. Running around looking for "100% gasoline" is about as forward thinking and beneficial as going out of your way to use non-detergent single-grade engine oil.
Phase separation? Excessively hygroscopic fuel? Really? You gotta be kidding, it just doesn't happen at additive level (E10 or thereabout) concentrations, but you DO get a meticulously DRY fuel system because it is enough ethanol to make small concentrations of water miscible with the gasoline. I've had 2 vintage vehicles that routinely sit for months at a time and may go 9 months on a single tank of fuel. I've had ZERO ill effects with E10 right out of the pump, and frankly I had more problems with MTBE fuel 15 years ago.
I'm fully on board with ethanol being a BAD choice as a full-on biofuel / gasoline replacement. The arguments about low energy content, negative net energy, wasted foodstuff, and many others are all very valid.... when you're talking about E85 to full-on pure ethanol fuel. But as an additive, its got rather little downside, and worries about it are virtually always overblown.
oh brother, what has this turned into...?
Nothing that I intended, that's for dang sure. So let's be crystal clear:
First and foremost, the ONLY thing I am saying which is directly germane to this thread is this: The simple fact is that a 2-stroke oil, regardless of its added fuel stabilizers and other benefits, WILL NOT "counter" ethanol effects on fuel system components (most of which are positive anyway- cleaning and keeping water in suspension so it doesn't corrode metal parts). Just replace the old incompatible fuel lines and gaskets. That's the only possible way to get rid of those side effects. Many of the other "effects" that are always blamed on ethanol (such as fuel degradation during storage) are true of ANY oxygenated fuel. Same thing happens with MTBE-boosted fuel, been there, done that- old MTBE gasoline smells like paint thinner and pours like napalm (ok, slight exaggeration) just like aged ethanol-boosted fuel does. Its just something we have to live with, so use TC-W3 as your long-term storage stabilizer if you want. Or Sta-Bil, or whatever. That's a good use of an additive.
Now for all the tangential arguments that have been brought up:
Of course ethanol produces slightly lower mileage, and I'm not advocating we all switch to E-85. I agree that ethanol is a BAD choice for a gasoline replacement. But again, science and engineering pressures demand that fuels capable of safely and effectively operating in modern engines with compression anywhere over 8:1 have to have some form of octane boosters and detergent additives, as well as oxygenates to meet emissions requirements. There are lots of options for that, but all have drawbacks and advantages, and many of them share ethanol's lower energy content per gallon. Picking one is a compromise, and its just part of what you suffer with to create a usable gasoline additive package. Looking at ONLY the engine/vehicle side of the equation, probably the best performing octane booster was tetraethyl lead, with methyl-manganse trycarbonyl close behind. But viewed from the negative side effects half of the equation, it was the worst. It aint coming back, we don't WANT it back, deal with it. For unleaded fuel the best performing cost-effective octane/oxygenate additive was MTBE, but its just a nasty substance with a long lifespan in the environment, and a propensity to get into groundwater. Its not as neurotoxic as TEL, but its tendency to get in the water makes it possibly even worse overall. Then there are various hydrocarbons that will boost octane rating, but they're expensive, don't address the need for oxygenate, and are derived from the same feedstock as the fuel itself. Ethanol in concentrations of 10-15% ("E-10" to "E-15") raises octane very well, breaks down if it gets in the environment, and is a good compromise overall. Running around looking for "100% gasoline" is about as forward thinking and beneficial as going out of your way to use non-detergent single-grade engine oil.
Phase separation? Excessively hygroscopic fuel? Really? You gotta be kidding, it just doesn't happen at additive level (E10 or thereabout) concentrations, but you DO get a meticulously DRY fuel system because it is enough ethanol to make small concentrations of water miscible with the gasoline. I've had 2 vintage vehicles that routinely sit for months at a time and may go 9 months on a single tank of fuel. I've had ZERO ill effects with E10 right out of the pump, and frankly I had more problems with MTBE fuel 15 years ago.
I'm fully on board with ethanol being a BAD choice as a full-on biofuel / gasoline replacement. The arguments about low energy content, negative net energy, wasted foodstuff, and many others are all very valid.... when you're talking about E85 to full-on pure ethanol fuel. But as an additive, its got rather little downside, and worries about it are virtually always overblown.
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: Gabe
Adding marine two stroke oil to your car's gas tank to improve fuel economy is a dumb idea.
Spoken like a true expert. Now sit down son and let the adults talk.
Numbers don't lie,and when your running 18 small motors for 10-12 hours a day distributed over various crews you notice a difference when they are burning less gas. And tc-w3 seems to keep the rubber in the carbs from drying out.
Just my years of experience however make whatever assumptions you chose.
We ain't talkin' small motors here, Grandpa.
For some reason, people are under the impression that there is some magical elixir that can be dumped into the gas/oil that will improve performance, fix headgaskets, dissolve varnish, extend oil life, restore compression, prevent shudder, decrease emissions, prevent overheating, decrease wear, clean injectors, fix fuel sending units, prevent misfires, extend fuel pump life, reduce carbon build up, extends spark plug life, prevent sticking valves, eliminate chatter, reduce internal friction, eliminate gum build-up, improve cold flow, reduce oil consumption, strengthen hot oil, quiet noisy engines, fixes rear main seal leaks, repairs radiators, fills scratches on cylinder walls, balance shear stability, prevent blow-by, fix heater core, cushions worn bearings, prevents smoke, improves acceleration, cleans throttle bodies, removes water, increases oil pressure, stops corrosion, increases engine life or improve fuel economy.
Sorry; I'm not buying it.
Originally Posted By: Gabe
Adding marine two stroke oil to your car's gas tank to improve fuel economy is a dumb idea.
Spoken like a true expert. Now sit down son and let the adults talk.
Numbers don't lie,and when your running 18 small motors for 10-12 hours a day distributed over various crews you notice a difference when they are burning less gas. And tc-w3 seems to keep the rubber in the carbs from drying out.
Just my years of experience however make whatever assumptions you chose.
We ain't talkin' small motors here, Grandpa.
For some reason, people are under the impression that there is some magical elixir that can be dumped into the gas/oil that will improve performance, fix headgaskets, dissolve varnish, extend oil life, restore compression, prevent shudder, decrease emissions, prevent overheating, decrease wear, clean injectors, fix fuel sending units, prevent misfires, extend fuel pump life, reduce carbon build up, extends spark plug life, prevent sticking valves, eliminate chatter, reduce internal friction, eliminate gum build-up, improve cold flow, reduce oil consumption, strengthen hot oil, quiet noisy engines, fixes rear main seal leaks, repairs radiators, fills scratches on cylinder walls, balance shear stability, prevent blow-by, fix heater core, cushions worn bearings, prevents smoke, improves acceleration, cleans throttle bodies, removes water, increases oil pressure, stops corrosion, increases engine life or improve fuel economy.
Sorry; I'm not buying it.
Originally Posted By: Gabe
For some reason, people are under the impression that there is some magical elixir that can be dumped into the gas/oil that will improve performance, fix headgaskets, dissolve varnish, extend oil life, restore compression, prevent shudder, decrease emissions, prevent overheating, decrease wear, clean injectors, fix fuel sending units, prevent misfires, extend fuel pump life, reduce carbon build up, extends spark plug life, prevent sticking valves, eliminate chatter, reduce internal friction, eliminate gum build-up, improve cold flow, reduce oil consumption, strengthen hot oil, quiet noisy engines, fixes rear main seal leaks, repairs radiators, fills scratches on cylinder walls, balance shear stability, prevent blow-by, fix heater core, cushions worn bearings, prevents smoke, improves acceleration, cleans throttle bodies, removes water, increases oil pressure, stops corrosion, increases engine life or improve fuel economy.
Sorry; I'm not buying it.
My girlfriend's 4-year old son thinks that science is magic.
In reality, there are chemical additives that individually can accomplish most of the things you list above, at least to some degree. And if you've purchased motor oil or gasoline at any point in the past 75 years, you've already 'bought it', even if you don't know it.
There IS a lot of snake oil out there - but that doesn't make everything snake oil.
For some reason, people are under the impression that there is some magical elixir that can be dumped into the gas/oil that will improve performance, fix headgaskets, dissolve varnish, extend oil life, restore compression, prevent shudder, decrease emissions, prevent overheating, decrease wear, clean injectors, fix fuel sending units, prevent misfires, extend fuel pump life, reduce carbon build up, extends spark plug life, prevent sticking valves, eliminate chatter, reduce internal friction, eliminate gum build-up, improve cold flow, reduce oil consumption, strengthen hot oil, quiet noisy engines, fixes rear main seal leaks, repairs radiators, fills scratches on cylinder walls, balance shear stability, prevent blow-by, fix heater core, cushions worn bearings, prevents smoke, improves acceleration, cleans throttle bodies, removes water, increases oil pressure, stops corrosion, increases engine life or improve fuel economy.
Sorry; I'm not buying it.
My girlfriend's 4-year old son thinks that science is magic.
In reality, there are chemical additives that individually can accomplish most of the things you list above, at least to some degree. And if you've purchased motor oil or gasoline at any point in the past 75 years, you've already 'bought it', even if you don't know it.
There IS a lot of snake oil out there - but that doesn't make everything snake oil.
MrQuackers
Site Donor 2024
Works for me. Pretty cheap "snake oil"
Originally Posted By: Gabe
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: Gabe
Adding marine two stroke oil to your car's gas tank to improve fuel economy is a dumb idea.
Spoken like a true expert. Now sit down son and let the adults talk.
Numbers don't lie,and when your running 18 small motors for 10-12 hours a day distributed over various crews you notice a difference when they are burning less gas. And tc-w3 seems to keep the rubber in the carbs from drying out.
Just my years of experience however make whatever assumptions you chose.
We ain't talkin' small motors here, Grandpa.
For some reason, people are under the impression that there is some magical elixir that can be dumped into the gas/oil that will improve performance, fix headgaskets, dissolve varnish, extend oil life, restore compression, prevent shudder, decrease emissions, prevent overheating, decrease wear, clean injectors, fix fuel sending units, prevent misfires, extend fuel pump life, reduce carbon build up, extends spark plug life, prevent sticking valves, eliminate chatter, reduce internal friction, eliminate gum build-up, improve cold flow, reduce oil consumption, strengthen hot oil, quiet noisy engines, fixes rear main seal leaks, repairs radiators, fills scratches on cylinder walls, balance shear stability, prevent blow-by, fix heater core, cushions worn bearings, prevents smoke, improves acceleration, cleans throttle bodies, removes water, increases oil pressure, stops corrosion, increases engine life or improve fuel economy.
Sorry; I'm not buying it.
Several of the things you've mentioned can actually be remedied with a good UCL. I have 5 fuel floats remedied with it now, not to mention a few other things off your list. YMMV
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: Gabe
Adding marine two stroke oil to your car's gas tank to improve fuel economy is a dumb idea.
Spoken like a true expert. Now sit down son and let the adults talk.
Numbers don't lie,and when your running 18 small motors for 10-12 hours a day distributed over various crews you notice a difference when they are burning less gas. And tc-w3 seems to keep the rubber in the carbs from drying out.
Just my years of experience however make whatever assumptions you chose.
We ain't talkin' small motors here, Grandpa.
For some reason, people are under the impression that there is some magical elixir that can be dumped into the gas/oil that will improve performance, fix headgaskets, dissolve varnish, extend oil life, restore compression, prevent shudder, decrease emissions, prevent overheating, decrease wear, clean injectors, fix fuel sending units, prevent misfires, extend fuel pump life, reduce carbon build up, extends spark plug life, prevent sticking valves, eliminate chatter, reduce internal friction, eliminate gum build-up, improve cold flow, reduce oil consumption, strengthen hot oil, quiet noisy engines, fixes rear main seal leaks, repairs radiators, fills scratches on cylinder walls, balance shear stability, prevent blow-by, fix heater core, cushions worn bearings, prevents smoke, improves acceleration, cleans throttle bodies, removes water, increases oil pressure, stops corrosion, increases engine life or improve fuel economy.
Sorry; I'm not buying it.
Several of the things you've mentioned can actually be remedied with a good UCL. I have 5 fuel floats remedied with it now, not to mention a few other things off your list. YMMV
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
.... Then there are various hydrocarbons that will boost octane rating, but they're expensive, don't address the need for oxygenate, and are derived from the same feedstock as the fuel itself. ...
440Magnum, I agree with most of your post, but:
Do engines using electronic fuel injection with feedback (like oxygen sensors) have any need for oxygenate in gasoline? I thought the only benefit of oxygenates in gasoline was in the bad old days of carburetted automotive engines.
.... Then there are various hydrocarbons that will boost octane rating, but they're expensive, don't address the need for oxygenate, and are derived from the same feedstock as the fuel itself. ...
440Magnum, I agree with most of your post, but:
Do engines using electronic fuel injection with feedback (like oxygen sensors) have any need for oxygenate in gasoline? I thought the only benefit of oxygenates in gasoline was in the bad old days of carburetted automotive engines.
UPDATE:
Drove a bit this weekend to Tawas City from Bay City. 30 miles of highway, cruise set at 79MPH, 35 miles of two lane avg 60MPH and my indicator is now showing 21.6 MPG. I have not reset that thing in around 2K miles so that much improvement in 130 miles of weekend driving is pretty significant I think. Maybe not? Who knows?
Drove a bit this weekend to Tawas City from Bay City. 30 miles of highway, cruise set at 79MPH, 35 miles of two lane avg 60MPH and my indicator is now showing 21.6 MPG. I have not reset that thing in around 2K miles so that much improvement in 130 miles of weekend driving is pretty significant I think. Maybe not? Who knows?
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