Well Pump Won't Shut Off...

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Well Pump continues to run. Seems to be building pressure. Not sure the PSI that it's suppose to shut off though. What should I check?
 
So what's happening? It builds until a relief gets tripped and then it is blowing water out? Domestic water should be 50ish psi.
 
The cut-out pressure is usually 50-60 psi. You'll want to shut it off at the breaker so it doesn't damage itself.

It should have a grey plastic box that measures about 3 x 3 x 5", with a small acorn nut on top. This is the pressure switch. After shutting off the breaker, take a look inside, the contacts are probably stuck together. You can manually un-stuck it, but it will probably stick again in the near future. You'll want to buy a new one, they aren't to hard to install, but if you have any doubts, have a plumber or electrician install it. Get the Square-D brand, it's the only one I know of that's any good. You might want to add a pressure gauge at the same time if it doesn't already have one.
 
I agree with everything Cardenio327 says. Plus I will add that I had the same issue with my well. The cause was a blockage in the 1/4" pipe that the pressure switch was mounted to. I ended up replacing the square D pressure switch and that piping. That solved the pump staying on issue.
 
submersible pump down in the well, or jet pump in the house?
ours is a shallow well jet pump(well is only like 25 ft deep)few years back, woke up to hear the pump running...no one else home, softener didn't appear to be recharging...checked the outside spigots, all off. pressure was holding steady, but pump wouldn't shut off...

turns out, the "drive shaft" for lack of a better term had broken. meaning the motor was running non stop, but not turning the pump,or drawing anything up from the well.

replaced with new fully cast iron pump(Goulds).. still working fine now 5 yrs or so later.
 
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Cardenio327 s correct

With my well, about every couple of years silt/dirt gets into the pressure switch and the pump runs on or runs longer then it should. The silt is blocking full pressure to the switch.

I used to clean them, but they are so cheap I just replace. Just buy the correct unit based on your on/off pressures and you may have to fine tune
 
yep, I agree that the pressure switch is either bad or the nipple feeding it is clogged....make sure you replace the nipple when redoing the switch....well water is tough on fittings.
 
Thanks Guys...I started by cleaning the tube from the pump all the way to removing the pressure switch and it shuts off now. But it shuts off a little past 80 PSI. I'll have to see if stands the test time.
 
Originally Posted By: Warstud
Thanks Guys...I started by cleaning the tube from the pump all the way to removing the pressure switch and it shuts off now. But it shuts off a little past 80 PSI. I'll have to see if stands the test time.


80 psi will introduce leaks in your home and also waste lots of electricity. You may also burn out your pump.

I would suggest replacing the pump switch and see if that corrects it.
 
Have you tried making adjustments on the current pressure switch? I would not run mine with 80psi. How much PSI do you have in the pressure tank? What is the tank rated for? I would find a switch that is in that rating range.
 
Originally Posted By: Fleetmon
80 psi is too high IMO.....could cause you to come home to a major leak

Originally Posted By: rjundi

80 psi will introduce leaks in your home and also waste lots of electricity. You may also burn out your pump.

I would suggest replacing the pump switch and see if that corrects it.


my great uncle found this out(HIGH pressure leaks..) after the city ran a new MAIN water Trunk line down the road a couple hundred feet from his house some years back.(main feeding into 2 correctional facilities, the local Dana Plant, and Ford Engine plant) shortly after the new line came "online" they started getting lots of leaks - their son who is a plumber came out, tested the line Pressure - 100 PSI!

shortly thereafter he did a complete re-pipe on the house.
 
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I run a Goulds 2HP, 3 stage jet pump at 70PSI on, 90PSI off. But, my home is fairly new, all copper, and well suited for high pressure. I had my builder configure the shower with 6 shower heads and a capable large drain system.

It's wonderful.
 
Originally Posted By: Cujet
I run a Goulds 2HP, 3 stage jet pump at 70PSI on, 90PSI off. But, my home is fairly new, all copper, and well suited for high pressure. I had my builder configure the shower with 6 shower heads and a capable large drain system.

It's wonderful.


I bet. But when do you condemn that currently new copper to a lower pressure?
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: Cujet
I run a Goulds 2HP, 3 stage jet pump at 70PSI on, 90PSI off. But, my home is fairly new, all copper, and well suited for high pressure. I had my builder configure the shower with 6 shower heads and a capable large drain system.

It's wonderful.


I bet. But when do you condemn that currently new copper to a lower pressure?


Never! Not only is 90PSI well within the capabilities of copper pipe in home applications, but,,,

Drawn copper pipe is capable of handling very high pressures. Even 1 inch copper pipe (what I use) is rated for a normal working pressure of 275PSI at 200 degrees F.


Working pressure table:
http://www.copper.org/applications/plumbing/techref/cth/tables/cth_table3c.html

Burst pressure table:
http://www.elkhartproducts.com/downloads/Copper-Water-Tube-Calculated-Burst-Pressure.pdf
 
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