One Last Ford Modular Motor Oil Question- Mobil 1

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Original Topic- 4.6 Modular Motor, Mustang:5W-20 OR 5W-30?
What is this person referring to, nothing, something???
** Quote Originally Posted by mvpperformance View Post
The 30 weight will be fine just please do not use Mobil1 like alot of nutswingers. They changed the formula recently and it has turned to [censored]. There are alot of ls platform engines failing from cams going flat and bearing issues. Common denominator in these is Mobil 1 oil. Don't believe it if you don't want to.too. The info us out there about this issue if anyone cares to actually look for it, I won't do all the work for you. The reason it sucks now is the greatly reduced the true anti wear ingredients in it.**
 
Absolute tripe.

GM continues to use Mobil 1 5w-30 with many of their new engines, and it also has a number of other manufacturer approvals.

Roller cams don't go "flat" unless you have a lifter failure. And that would be a mechanical issue and have nothing to do with the oil.
 
Originally Posted By: 229
Nothing he knows anything about?

+1
crackmeup2.gif
 
I agree with Overkill. I use Mobil 1 5W-30 exclusively in my 2003 Saturn and my 2007 Nissan Frontier and have since new. I have 105,000 on the Saturn and about 50,000 on the Fronty. I can see the overhead cam lobes through the fill hole in the Saturn and believe me, there is no visible wear!
 
Comes from the same people that said PYB was the worst because it was full of wax. Almost all of these guys are not members of BITOG. After some time BITOGer's get to the truth. FWIW---Oldtommy
 
I have a 2010 F150 with 4.6 , have run Mobil 1 in various flavors in it and my wife's mustang GT for tens of thousands of miles...all run like new. This is simply not true and most likely a case of mistakes on their part and looking for a scapegoat.
 
What an absurd comment. There is an RP VS Mobil 1 thread here where the mobil cams had a deeper wear scar but once the scar was measured it turned out to be immeasurable iirc.
I'm no fan of Mobil 1 however to say that Mobil 1 oils are causing engine failures is absurdity.
I'm also a mustang enthusiast and the mod motors do great on the 20 grade oils so going up a grade isn't necessary unless you have a consumption issue or you drive it hard enough to raise oil temps enough that film strength is compromised,which is very hard on the street and would only be a factor during track use.
Ignore the entire comment. The only thing I can say about Mobil 1 in my old 2v is that the engines acoustics became more noticeable(louder valve train). I doubt that the extra noise will contribute to more wear though so I wouldn't and am not worried about it.
I used nothing but 40 grades in my mustang because I felt that 20 grades were evil and my engine would dissolve. I now see how absurd that way of thinking is and 20 grades are not shortening engine life. In fact engines are lasting longer than ever before using 20 grades.
I've now got a 4v from a Mach in my 2000gt. I haven't gotten it dyno tuned yet since I'm running a very big nitrous shot and I've got Mac headers and prochamber exhaust,as well as various intake changes and an oil cooler,so using a 20 grade will not concern me in the least this season.
Just to re-iterate,and remember I'm a thicker is better guy,unless you have a condition that requires thicker oil I would run the recommended 20 grade and enjoy the minor fuel savings and less start up wear,as well as a free'er revving engine.
I'll bet tig is rolling in laughter right now. The guy runs 0w-20 AFE Mobil in his ford engines,at 10000 mile intervals,and his engines are spotless inside and there is no visible cam wear in the pics he has posted.
The only part of the posted quote that is true is that Mobil adjusted their formula,which every oil producer does. Additive costs change as do supply and environmental factors but I doubt the oil is worse performing in 99.99999999% of drivers engines.
And I'm no Mobil fan either.
 
Well using the logic that Mobil 1 5w-30 sucks now cause of the reduced anti-wear additives, you can conclude the every API SN oil sucks.

In regards to the 5w-20 specification for the 2001+ 4.6L V8:
If you tend to beat on your Mustang, I would definitely use a 30 grade. Mobil 1 5w-30 is fine. The car is specified for a 5w-20 blend (HTHSV 2.6). I would stick with a thinner 30 grade oil (HTHSV 3.0), for heavier abuse pick a thicker 30 grade (HTHSV 3.3-3.5). Consider Mobil 1 10w-30 for summer and Mobil 1 0w-30 for winter. If your gentle and rarely do WOT accelerations, a 0w-20 is adequate for all year.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: travlnman
I have a 2010 F150 with 4.6 , have run Mobil 1 in various flavors in it and my wife's mustang GT for tens of thousands of miles...all run like new. This is simply not true and most likely a case of mistakes on their part and looking for a scapegoat.


Or someone pushing a personal agenda for whatever reason.
Any API oil will perform fantastic in a mod motor at 5000 mile intervals. The engines are proven durable with various grades from 20 to 40,and the only actual difference would be extending the interval using a synthetic.
 
Originally Posted By: RobbS
Original Topic- 4.6 Modular Motor, Mustang:5W-20 OR 5W-30?
What is this person referring to, nothing, something???
** Quote Originally Posted by mvpperformance View Post
The 30 weight will be fine just please do not use Mobil1 like alot of nutswingers. They changed the formula recently and it has turned to [censored]. There are alot of ls platform engines failing from cams going flat and bearing issues. Common denominator in these is Mobil 1 oil. Don't believe it if you don't want to.too. The info us out there about this issue if anyone cares to actually look for it, I won't do all the work for you. The reason it sucks now is the greatly reduced the true anti wear ingredients in it.**


50.gif
 
Thank you everyone.
* Someone spoke for him stating that his information came from here (BITOG) in his own words: " The thread I read was talking about the new minimum requirements on the industry, and how Moble 1's new formula was lacking." In addition to what was stated above about the cams, bearings.
-AGAIN, thank you everyone. I love this site so much. Big brains, it's awesome. Thanks, -Robb
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: travlnman
I have a 2010 F150 with 4.6 , have run Mobil 1 in various flavors in it and my wife's mustang GT for tens of thousands of miles...all run like new. This is simply not true and most likely a case of mistakes on their part and looking for a scapegoat.


Or someone pushing a personal agenda for whatever reason.
Any API oil will perform fantastic in a mod motor at 5000 mile intervals. The engines are proven durable with various grades from 20 to 40,and the only actual difference would be extending the interval using a synthetic.


01.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
What an absurd comment. There is an RP VS Mobil 1 thread here where the mobil cams had a deeper wear scar but once the scar was measured it turned out to be immeasurable iirc.
I'm no fan of Mobil 1 however to say that Mobil 1 oils are causing engine failures is absurdity.
I'm also a mustang enthusiast and the mod motors do great on the 20 grade oils so going up a grade isn't necessary unless you have a consumption issue or you drive it hard enough to raise oil temps enough that film strength is compromised,which is very hard on the street and would only be a factor during track use.
Ignore the entire comment. The only thing I can say about Mobil 1 in my old 2v is that the engines acoustics became more noticeable(louder valve train). I doubt that the extra noise will contribute to more wear though so I wouldn't and am not worried about it.
I used nothing but 40 grades in my mustang because I felt that 20 grades were evil and my engine would dissolve. I now see how absurd that way of thinking is and 20 grades are not shortening engine life. In fact engines are lasting longer than ever before using 20 grades.
I've now got a 4v from a Mach in my 2000gt. I haven't gotten it dyno tuned yet since I'm running a very big nitrous shot and I've got Mac headers and prochamber exhaust,as well as various intake changes and an oil cooler,so using a 20 grade will not concern me in the least this season.
Just to re-iterate,and remember I'm a thicker is better guy,unless you have a condition that requires thicker oil I would run the recommended 20 grade and enjoy the minor fuel savings and less start up wear,as well as a free'er revving engine.
I'll bet tig is rolling in laughter right now. The guy runs 0w-20 AFE Mobil in his ford engines,at 10000 mile intervals,and his engines are spotless inside and there is no visible cam wear in the pics he has posted.
The only part of the posted quote that is true is that Mobil adjusted their formula,which every oil producer does. Additive costs change as do supply and environmental factors but I doubt the oil is worse performing in 99.99999999% of drivers engines.
And I'm no Mobil fan either.


Sounds like a nice Mustang. By the way, What oil do you run in that beast?
 
The anti wear reduction part says it all. And as if that was recent. The original writer calls himself MVP performance. I wouldn't let him change my oil. The percentage of group 4 basestock changed,and all oil got their zddp reduced when the SN spec came to fruition,not just Mobil,all of them. What the guy doesn't say is that the levels of friction modifiers increased to compensate for the zddp reduction. And truth be told the elevated levels of friction modifiers are proving to protect better and contribute to less wear in engines,not more.
Mr. Mvpperformance doesn't have a clue.
 
I have a buddy that has 1970 Chevelle with a very big and powerful engine. I don't remember the cid but we figured it out to be 9.2 litres, and runs 10-30 Mobil 1 with no problems. He races this car every weekend also.
And no I'm not a Mobil 1 fanboy, although I have tried it a couple times.
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
What an absurd comment. There is an RP VS Mobil 1 thread here where the mobil cams had a deeper wear scar but once the scar was measured it turned out to be immeasurable iirc.
I'm no fan of Mobil 1 however to say that Mobil 1 oils are causing engine failures is absurdity.
I'm also a mustang enthusiast and the mod motors do great on the 20 grade oils so going up a grade isn't necessary unless you have a consumption issue or you drive it hard enough to raise oil temps enough that film strength is compromised,which is very hard on the street and would only be a factor during track use.
Ignore the entire comment. The only thing I can say about Mobil 1 in my old 2v is that the engines acoustics became more noticeable(louder valve train). I doubt that the extra noise will contribute to more wear though so I wouldn't and am not worried about it.
I used nothing but 40 grades in my mustang because I felt that 20 grades were evil and my engine would dissolve. I now see how absurd that way of thinking is and 20 grades are not shortening engine life. In fact engines are lasting longer than ever before using 20 grades.
I've now got a 4v from a Mach in my 2000gt. I haven't gotten it dyno tuned yet since I'm running a very big nitrous shot and I've got Mac headers and prochamber exhaust,as well as various intake changes and an oil cooler,so using a 20 grade will not concern me in the least this season.
Just to re-iterate,and remember I'm a thicker is better guy,unless you have a condition that requires thicker oil I would run the recommended 20 grade and enjoy the minor fuel savings and less start up wear,as well as a free'er revving engine.
I'll bet tig is rolling in laughter right now. The guy runs 0w-20 AFE Mobil in his ford engines,at 10000 mile intervals,and his engines are spotless inside and there is no visible cam wear in the pics he has posted.
The only part of the posted quote that is true is that Mobil adjusted their formula,which every oil producer does. Additive costs change as do supply and environmental factors but I doubt the oil is worse performing in 99.99999999% of drivers engines.
And I'm no Mobil fan either.

Thanks. I have a stock 96 Cobra. What oil are you a fan of? If you don't mind me asking??
 
Originally Posted By: RobbS

Thanks. I have a stock 96 Cobra. What oil are you a fan of? If you don't mind me asking??


If i had a can like that, i would beat on it often and autocross it alot. I would use Mobil 1 0w-40 in that case.
 
Originally Posted By: johnnydc
Originally Posted By: Clevy
What an absurd comment. There is an RP VS Mobil 1 thread here where the mobil cams had a deeper wear scar but once the scar was measured it turned out to be immeasurable iirc.
I'm no fan of Mobil 1 however to say that Mobil 1 oils are causing engine failures is absurdity.
I'm also a mustang enthusiast and the mod motors do great on the 20 grade oils so going up a grade isn't necessary unless you have a consumption issue or you drive it hard enough to raise oil temps enough that film strength is compromised,which is very hard on the street and would only be a factor during track use.
Ignore the entire comment. The only thing I can say about Mobil 1 in my old 2v is that the engines acoustics became more noticeable(louder valve train). I doubt that the extra noise will contribute to more wear though so I wouldn't and am not worried about it.
I used nothing but 40 grades in my mustang because I felt that 20 grades were evil and my engine would dissolve. I now see how absurd that way of thinking is and 20 grades are not shortening engine life. In fact engines are lasting longer than ever before using 20 grades.
I've now got a 4v from a Mach in my 2000gt. I haven't gotten it dyno tuned yet since I'm running a very big nitrous shot and I've got Mac headers and prochamber exhaust,as well as various intake changes and an oil cooler,so using a 20 grade will not concern me in the least this season.
Just to re-iterate,and remember I'm a thicker is better guy,unless you have a condition that requires thicker oil I would run the recommended 20 grade and enjoy the minor fuel savings and less start up wear,as well as a free'er revving engine.
I'll bet tig is rolling in laughter right now. The guy runs 0w-20 AFE Mobil in his ford engines,at 10000 mile intervals,and his engines are spotless inside and there is no visible cam wear in the pics he has posted.
The only part of the posted quote that is true is that Mobil adjusted their formula,which every oil producer does. Additive costs change as do supply and environmental factors but I doubt the oil is worse performing in 99.99999999% of drivers engines.
And I'm no Mobil fan either.


Sounds like a nice Mustang. By the way, What oil do you run in that beast?


Before I blew up the 2v I used various different 40 grades. From rotella t-6 with a can of mos2 to conventional hdeos. My cams show no wear whatsoever and I put 100k on it.
The 2v died after it shot out another plug but this time a chunk got ingested and chipped the piston,so this year I've got a 4v installed.
Track days will be the mighty M1 0w-40 with a couple quarts of tgmo to thin it a bit but in between track days,and IF an interval comes up I'll be using whatever 20 grade is on sale or in my stockpile.
I'm running a 2 stage plate kit this season which is capable of 300hp. I'd be retarded to spray that size shot all at once,it will snap connecting rods for sure since the Mach 1's that were matched to manual trannies came with everything forged except the connecting rods,so that's the weakest link.
The auto's had a 6 bolt cast crank and the manuals had an 8 bolt forged crank. The aluminum blocks can withstand 800hp with proper tuning and as long as I spray in stages and don't hit it all at once with that much nitrous I shouldn't have any issues.
I'd rather have boost over nitrous and will at some point bolt the m112 blower I have on top of this car but once I do that's when it will be track only,and no more daily driving. As my summer dd I'd rather have nitrous because the engine is only stressed at the track while spraying instead of running boosted full time.
That's my though process anyways.
I want to build a fox body before this one becomes a dedicated track car. I have a Capri that I'm building with a friend this season. We are welding in a cage because anything faster then 12s needs one. I've got an automatic for it. It's the overdrive version and I was thinking of at least 3600 stall speed for the converter and a trans brake.
I figure the Capri will keep my need for speed at the track satiated and keeps my 2000 as a driver,instead of a trailer queen.
I know,big plans right.
I was considering fuel injection on a 351w but because its a track car we are going with a 750 double pumper,big cam,8000 rpm,tubbed with a narrowed rear end.
It won't have good road manners but should haul in the 1320.
 
Originally Posted By: johnnydc
I have a buddy that has 1970 Chevelle with a very big and powerful engine. I don't remember the cid but we figured it out to be 9.2 litres, and runs 10-30 Mobil 1 with no problems. He races this car every weekend also.
And no I'm not a Mobil 1 fanboy, although I have tried it a couple times.


Awesome car. My uncle has the ls-6 454. He bought it brand new in 1970. It's completely stock and rarely sees the light of day. The torque that engine has is incredible and will break the tires loose at will.
He says that his car,because its all original and has the ls-6 engine and colour combo is worth 250000 grand and he has seen them go for more at the Barrett-Jackson auction. He said he bought it for 9000 which in 1970 is the equivalent to something like 80 thousand in today's dollars.
He has already willed it to me when he dies,since I'm the only gearhead in our family.
I'm almost looking forward to him dying(I know,I know but come on,what a car). It's got drum brakes iirc. In the 70s I guess stopping wasn't really a concern.
Hehehe
 
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