Which one would you choose and why?
pennzoil ultra vs M1
- Thread starter cjohns79ut
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Whichever is cheaper, both are high quality oils, my personal choice would be PU.
I use Pennzoil. I have used Ultra in the past and may well again.
Both oils are fantastic. Either way you are fine. To me, really comes down to grade. Want a OW oil? Then between M1 an Ultra, you want M1, as there is no Ultra in 0W oil. GIven the same weight in both brands, I chose Ultra (or Platinum) because Mobil 1 has shown higher iron levels in numerous used oil samples. Enough to make a difference in real world use or engine longevity? Probably not. Enough to bother OCD BITOG types like me? Definitely.
Mobil 1 has one big advantage regardless of grade: availability. It is available nearly everywhere. Every store that I can think of that carries oil carries M1. That isn't the case (sadly) with Pennzoil Ultra.
Both oils are fantastic. Either way you are fine. To me, really comes down to grade. Want a OW oil? Then between M1 an Ultra, you want M1, as there is no Ultra in 0W oil. GIven the same weight in both brands, I chose Ultra (or Platinum) because Mobil 1 has shown higher iron levels in numerous used oil samples. Enough to make a difference in real world use or engine longevity? Probably not. Enough to bother OCD BITOG types like me? Definitely.
Mobil 1 has one big advantage regardless of grade: availability. It is available nearly everywhere. Every store that I can think of that carries oil carries M1. That isn't the case (sadly) with Pennzoil Ultra.
Depends on the viscosity.
02 Kia Sportage with 83k... I want a oil the cleans well. Manual says 5w30
Any SN dino will clean your Kia. PYB FTW LOL
I have wanted to Buy 6, no 7 quarts of Pennzoil Ultra 10w-30 for a Oil Change for my 2001 SilverStone Metallic Jeep Cherokees 4.0 maby next OCI around the 1st of the New Year. With a Bosch Distance Oil filter in the Oversize for a 4.0, cant remember filter #, its at home. Whatever fits a 80s Ford 300, 302, 351, etc.
My personal opinion I don't think it's good to switch brands...
Switching bands is fine. If it bothers you, then go to Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum, as Ultra availability can be spotty at best.
Originally Posted By: HyundaiGuy
Want a OW oil? Then between M1 an Ultra, you want M1, as there is no Ultra in 0W oil. GIven the same weight in both brands, I chose Ultra (or Platinum) because Mobil 1 has shown higher iron levels in numerous used oil samples.
You echoed my sentiments exactly. I will say that M1 EP does not seem to show the higher iron on UOA and if I catch it on sale I will use that.
Want a OW oil? Then between M1 an Ultra, you want M1, as there is no Ultra in 0W oil. GIven the same weight in both brands, I chose Ultra (or Platinum) because Mobil 1 has shown higher iron levels in numerous used oil samples.
You echoed my sentiments exactly. I will say that M1 EP does not seem to show the higher iron on UOA and if I catch it on sale I will use that.
Wheres this ultra SN you speak of
And the pp specs are around here for SN
And the pp specs are around here for SN
I can't speak on the cleaning ability of M1. However out of the Pennzoil or even the Rotella I have been using lately the Ultra cleaned most thoroughly.
There is a layer of stuff on the inside of my valve cover that I didn't even know existed until I used Ultra. Reason is: it looks like it was suppose to be that color (black). Ultra actually poked holes in it and was slowly eating away at this stuff. That was last year that I used Ultra for the entire year at 6 month intervals which was approx 4500 miles each change.
This year I have used T6 5w40 full synthetic and T5 10w30 blend Rotellas which was (and is going to be current fill is only one month so far) 6 month intervals. I did add Marvel to the T5 on this service as noted in my signature. This year the gunk layer or whatever you want to call it hasn't changed much. In summary the Ultra is amazing from my experience with it in cleaning.
Flip the coin and on the Mazda in my signature has had reg Pennzoil (PYB Pennzoil yellow bottle). From whenever the SN change over started happening ( I don't remember when that was) I have been using SN rated PYB in it. There is some nice cleaning going on in that thing too. That car was bought used with 80,000 miles on it and since then hasn't cleaned up fully (now with 186,000 miles). So far using PYB SM, Pennzoil high mileage, and PYB SN the SN has done very well.
In short my hypothesis is that [most likely] the latest SN spec in a motor oil will clean more then we have seen previously. What I'm saying is conventional oil narrowing the cleaning gap between conventional and synthetics. Since I am a SOPUS fan I can only share my experiences with such.
P.S. I say go Ultra if you can find it.
There is a layer of stuff on the inside of my valve cover that I didn't even know existed until I used Ultra. Reason is: it looks like it was suppose to be that color (black). Ultra actually poked holes in it and was slowly eating away at this stuff. That was last year that I used Ultra for the entire year at 6 month intervals which was approx 4500 miles each change.
This year I have used T6 5w40 full synthetic and T5 10w30 blend Rotellas which was (and is going to be current fill is only one month so far) 6 month intervals. I did add Marvel to the T5 on this service as noted in my signature. This year the gunk layer or whatever you want to call it hasn't changed much. In summary the Ultra is amazing from my experience with it in cleaning.
Flip the coin and on the Mazda in my signature has had reg Pennzoil (PYB Pennzoil yellow bottle). From whenever the SN change over started happening ( I don't remember when that was) I have been using SN rated PYB in it. There is some nice cleaning going on in that thing too. That car was bought used with 80,000 miles on it and since then hasn't cleaned up fully (now with 186,000 miles). So far using PYB SM, Pennzoil high mileage, and PYB SN the SN has done very well.
In short my hypothesis is that [most likely] the latest SN spec in a motor oil will clean more then we have seen previously. What I'm saying is conventional oil narrowing the cleaning gap between conventional and synthetics. Since I am a SOPUS fan I can only share my experiences with such.
P.S. I say go Ultra if you can find it.
Someone should do the PU before and after picture, that would be great. I'm so tempted to try PU now ....
Originally Posted By: dparm
Depends on the viscosity.
I totally agree with dparm on this. M1 0w40 would be my choice over PU 5w40 all day. PU 5w20 would be my choice for an extended drain over M1 5w20. The 5w30 PU and M1 are both excellent so it would come down to either a coin flip, sale or if I needed some cleaning done.
PS: I truly believe PU has a natural cleaning ability that is slightly better than other oils in its class. I did a change on my uncle's Accord about a year ago. The dipstick had some varnish on it that was not coming off with M1. PU had it shining like new within 500mi.
Depends on the viscosity.
I totally agree with dparm on this. M1 0w40 would be my choice over PU 5w40 all day. PU 5w20 would be my choice for an extended drain over M1 5w20. The 5w30 PU and M1 are both excellent so it would come down to either a coin flip, sale or if I needed some cleaning done.
PS: I truly believe PU has a natural cleaning ability that is slightly better than other oils in its class. I did a change on my uncle's Accord about a year ago. The dipstick had some varnish on it that was not coming off with M1. PU had it shining like new within 500mi.
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Originally Posted By: cjohns79ut
02 Kia Sportage with 83k... I want a oil the cleans well. Manual says 5w30
I'm a Pennzoil Platinum/Ultra person myself but with that weight I'd buy the cheapest option and go 7500 changes provided those miles come within a year.
02 Kia Sportage with 83k... I want a oil the cleans well. Manual says 5w30
I'm a Pennzoil Platinum/Ultra person myself but with that weight I'd buy the cheapest option and go 7500 changes provided those miles come within a year.
It's not too hard to beat Mobil 1 when it comes to keeping your engine wear to a minimum. Most all your mainstream conventional oils will beat it no problem. Why people continue to buy it when the UOA section consistently shows high wear metals with all types of engines is beyond me.
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