Valvoline VR1 in bikes?

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Hello.

I'm sorry to bother with this question but I could not find discussion about this aspect:

Valvoline VR1 (mineral) being racing oil how are it's cleaning capabilities for example in bikes?

I read on a bike forum that an engine, which had been run on VR1, needed to be opened for non-oil related reasons and the engine insides had been very, very dirty.

I would like to try VR1 after Motul 3000 and would like to hear your thoughts on this subject, please?
 
You should be able to find a LOT of good talk on VR-1 as a bike oil. I use it...many others use it and it has shown GOOD Oil analysis reports here.

What kind of bike you running?
 
If you use Google, you'll find quite a bit of discussion on oil, mineral and otherwise in bikes, so much so that it might almost be interpreted as a religious debate... Just about ANY (detergent) oil will be more than adequate in keeping your engine free of sludge provided it is CHANGED regularly and in a timely fashion. Not kidding, even the $2.50 a quart Wal-Mart brand will provide you decent protection should it be changed frequently.

I use Rotella T 15-40 in my Ducati and change it every 1500 miles along with the filter, which is, heaven forbid, a Fram (XG3614, I installed an adapter on the spigot). I could probably get away with changing it less frequently; say every 3,000 to 4,000 miles.

You COULD run the MOST EXPENSIVE mineral or synthetic oil and change it every 3,000 to 6,000 miles but ultimately a UAO is going to tell you how much viscosity breakdown has occurred or give indicators of other problems. There are quite a few UAO's right here which might give you some idea on how it (the VR1) performs in a motorcycle.

From my reading, the greatest issues faced with motor oil in a motorcycle are viscosity breakdown (due to the shared sump with the transmission) and potential thermal breakdown (for air cooled engines).

This statement best illustrates the problem:

"I read on a bike forum that an engine, which had been run on VR1, needed to be opened for non-oil related reasons and the engine insides had been very, very dirty."

There are quite a few information sources on the web, as a matter of fact; the amount of it is absolutely overwhelming. Furthermore, sifting the "wheat from the chaff" can be an insurmountable task. Did the owner of that bike frequently change the oil? Was he/she the first owner of the bike? How had the bike been run? It is questions like this that will yield the likely culprit with regards to the sludge buildup/deposits in the engine. I highly doubt that the VR1 was the problem.

For you particular application, I would consider the following:

- Is your bike air cooled or water cooled?
- What environment do you ride in (average temperature)?
- Is your bike modified?
- What does the manufacturer recommend, particularly with regards to viscosity?
- Do you race your bike?
- Do you commute daily on your motorcycle and how far/long do you ride?
- Where do you live (will play an important factor in brand availability)?

I am personally a fan of the HDEO’s (Rotella/Delvac/etc.) but just about any of the name brands are decent oils…

I hope this helps, we have VR1 here locally as well (Fort Worth, TX) and I had considered running it as well, seems like a decent choice from a reputable manufacturer. So in answer to your query, I would not hesitate to try it, just remember change interval. Bikes tend to break down oils faster than automobiles, even the motorcycle specific oils. By the way, I make no claim to being an expert on this subject and my views are solely my own, your mileage will vary…
 
Thanks guys for the replies.

This is for my BMW K1100LT (liquid cooled, separate gear box) which sees mostly touring use. OCI is 5000 km (appr. 3000 miles).

As suggested I dug up some VR1 UOAs and as a layman I tried to interpret what they were trying to tell me. Looks good, though.

With this "racing oil" worry I was thinking about the levels of detergents compared to the usual "street oils". Apparently they are on acceptable level and therefore there's no reason not to try the VR1.

Thanks again, guys.
 
Valvoline have VR1 in a few different forms which makes it easy to get mixed stories on the subject.

They have the "racing only" oils and these are lower in detergency to the normal VR1. They are designed to be used for racing, hence the lower detergency and increased frequency for change.
 
Originally Posted By: Qwiky
Valvoline have VR1 in a few different forms which makes it easy to get mixed stories on the subject.

They have the "racing only" oils and these are lower in detergency to the normal VR1. They are designed to be used for racing, hence the lower detergency and increased frequency for change.

Now it starts to make sense. We only have the "street" oil available here, as far as I can tell. Thanks, mate.
smile.gif
 
There's a few uoa's in the uoa motorcycle section of different bikes that are using Vr-1. Vr-1 seems to hold up very well according to the testing labs. I use it and it performs as good or better then others I have tried.,
 
Right,

I have been flushing the BMW with short OCIs with dino Motul 3000 20W-50 and changed it today to dino Valvoline VR1 20W-50 with Hiflo HF163 filter.

The VR1 is so light in color and hard to see in the old oil window that I accidentally overfilled the sump and had to take some out. I swear that the engine was not this smooth with Motul - I mean, this engine is now silky smooth.
 
Originally Posted By: Finn
Right,

I have been flushing the BMW with short OCIs with dino Motul 3000 20W-50 and changed it today to dino Valvoline VR1 20W-50 with Hiflo HF163 filter.

The VR1 is so light in color and hard to see in the old oil window that I accidentally overfilled the sump and had to take some out. I swear that the engine was not this smooth with Motul - I mean, this engine is now silky smooth.


The VR1 will work well for your application. We have been using it in a variety of motorcycles both water-cooled and air-cooled and it gives excellent service.

My experience is that the shifting improves with a fresh oil change, regardless of the brand of oil.

Your experience may vary.
 
VR1 is good stuff. If I were not using BradPenn in my Harley, I'd run it.

The new Crocker company chose VR1 for their first bike off the line, a recreation of the famous Crocker Special from the 1930s.

Crocker_VR1.jpg
 
Motul meets the clutch friction gate, VR1 does not and it says dont use in a wet clutch, so you may or may not have issue, but when an oil manufactuer actually states that on the bottle there's probably a good reason.

JUst run one of the 15w40 diesils, if need a budget oil that will do just about everything you need. Or Run the amsoil 15w40 diesil the amf type, its stout stuff and less than $10, Amsoil is known for top line cleaning.

as far Real synthetic, you cant beat that
 
Originally Posted By: Mackelroy
Motul meets the clutch friction gate, VR1 does not and it says dont use in a wet clutch, so you may or may not have issue, but when an oil manufactuer actually states that on the bottle there's probably a good reason.


I take any claims not to use the oil in a motorcycle at the same value of the purolator website telling me not to use a pureone filter on a motorcycle.

Both Purolator and Valvoline sell a motorcycle product line, which IMO is inferior to other products they sell. Ive used VR1 and Pureone products on motorcycles without a problem, and I'm 100% sure I'll never have a problem. It's all marketing. as soon as they realized bikers were using VR1 and not the expensive motorcycle oil, they wrote "not for use in motorcycles" or whatever it says on the bottle. pure marketing.

you misspelled diesel and manufacturer, FYI.
 
Originally Posted By: Mackelroy
Motul meets the clutch friction gate, VR1 does not and it says dont use in a wet clutch, so you may or may not have issue, but when an oil manufactuer actually states that on the bottle there's probably a good reason.

JUst run one of the 15w40 diesils, if need a budget oil that will do just about everything you need. Or Run the amsoil 15w40 diesil the amf type, its stout stuff and less than $10, Amsoil is known for top line cleaning.

as far Real synthetic, you cant beat that

BMW K1100 (as well as K100, K75 and early K1200) has dry clutch and separate gearbox.

The consensus amongst BMW riders over here is to use a mineral 20W-50.
 
[/quote]
BMW K1100 (as well as K100, K75 and early K1200) has dry clutch and separate gearbox.

The consensus amongst BMW riders over here is to use a mineral 20W-50. [/quote]

I have 3 BMWs in the garage now from 1972 to 2011.. I have VR1 in stock for all of them. I have no doubt I am getting more than sufficient lubrication from Valvoline.
 
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