1968 Volkswagen Beetle oil recommendations

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Any idea what would be best to use in this thing? It has only 55K original miles on it. I believe my dad (who has owned it since my grandad passed away) has been using Pennzoil 10w30. I'm going to be getting the car for my daughter to drive around town and was wondering if this is the right weight oil to use. Any recommendations?
 
I'd go thicker, 15w40 or 20w50. 20-50 used to be "the thing" for aircooled VWs in the day. Especially in TX.
 
They can run hot, being air cooled.
I was heavily into bugs and dune buggys for a while.
A 10-40 or 15-40 HDEO would be very good in your locale.
But sure, the 10-30 is fine for light driving and short trips.
 
My dad put almost 250K on 2 bugs. A 70 and a 74 running Pennzoil 10w40 year round. I remember a few trips in Summer from Ca to TX in them. Never had any engine work done to either.
 
My 63 Beetle has been running great on Rotella Dino 15W40 for quite a few years now....130K+ miles without an oil-related problem. I think 10W30 is too light.
 
Great--thanks for the feedback! I know this doesn't really go in this section of the forums, but I'll ask anyway since it is related to this thread.

I've never done an oil change on a bug. I know they have a screen instead of a filter. Does everyone generally just clean the screen and put it back in? Can you just drain the oil and clean the screen every other change? What is the recommended procedure? It looks like a bigger pain than doing an oil change with a regular canister filter.

Also, anyone know the oil capacity of a '68 Beetle with the 1500cc engine? I'm sure I can look it up, but I'll go ahead and ask.

Thanks in advance!
 
A VW engine can probably benefit from the HDEO's additive mix. 15w40, you can get the 5qt jugs of the Motorcraft 15w40 for about $15 these days, and that's a pretty good deal. Leaves plenty left over for you to top off as needed in between. Or if you don't burn hardly ANY oil, that's enough for two changes (I believe the sump capacity on the old bugs is a hair over 2.5qts)
 
Check your manual, but as I recall your oil capacity should be 2.5L or 2.6 quarts. I would put in 2.5 qts, run for a minute or two, let sit for 5 minutes, then check and top off if needed.

The oil screen is so coarse as to be practically useless. Every other oil change would be fine for cleaning it and re-installing. You'll need a new gasket when you drop the screen....and don't overtorque the screws holding the plate on.
 
I owned a then new 1972 Beetle. The owner's manual called for straight 30 weight & straight 20 weight oils. Even with the 20 wt oil it was a bear to start in the real cold winter temps. Though I never had any other problems with oil viscosity causing engine problems.

Whimsey
 
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with a 3qt capacity and no real filter i would not look for extended drain intervals in this one
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whats the manual say about oci?
 
In my last air cooled VW, a Vanagon, I used 10W-40 winters and either that or a 30W summers.
If I had one now, I'd use a 15W-40 summers and 10W-30 winters.
The air cooled vdubs have pretty low specific output, but they need every little Percheron just to keep moving, so they get worked pretty hard within their limits.
I don't think that a 20W-50 is needed with modern oils.
 
Originally Posted By: mrdctaylor
Great--thanks for the feedback! I know this doesn't really go in this section of the forums, but I'll ask anyway since it is related to this thread.

I've never done an oil change on a bug. I know they have a screen instead of a filter. Does everyone generally just clean the screen and put it back in? Can you just drain the oil and clean the screen every other change? What is the recommended procedure? It looks like a bigger pain than doing an oil change with a regular canister filter.

Also, anyone know the oil capacity of a '68 Beetle with the 1500cc engine? I'm sure I can look it up, but I'll go ahead and ask.

Thanks in advance!

5 pints in the sump so when you get the three quarts, don't overfill.
After changing the screen a few times you'll get good at it and won't think twice. Clean it every time and those 10 mm bolts go on in a star pattern like wheel lugs so you don't have leaks. Get the torque from a Chilton's or All-data or some internet source.
+1 on the 15w40.
 
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Originally Posted By: fdcg27
...they need every little Percheron just to keep moving, so they get worked pretty hard within their limits.


Percherons? Those are big horses.
I'm thinking about horses the size of Shetlands.
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Originally Posted By: A_Harman
Briggs & Straton lawn-mower oil.


funny but still a good recommendation
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an sae 30 wouldnt be a bad choice, especially one with good ZDDP levels
 
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