1977 Dodge 360. Unknown mileage/oil type

[ExDelayed]

1977 Dodge truck, 360/automatic with 71,000 miles. I recently purchased this vehicle and was wondering the condition of the engine. I figured that this would be the easiest way to find the condition of the engine. I found the results to be very disappointing.

• 77 Aluminum
• 21 Chromium
• 901 Iron
• 52 Copper
• 108 Lead
• 35 Tin
• 5 Molybdenum
• 1 Nickel
• 42 Manganese
• 76 Potassium
• 32 Boron
• 92 Silicon
• 152 Sodium
• 854 Calcium
• 687 Magnesium
• 678 Phosphorus
• 1054 Zinc
• 3 Barium

• 59.4 SUS Viscosity @ 210
• 235 Flashpoint
• 6.5 Fuel
• ? Antifreeze
• TR Water
• 0.8 Insolubles

We don't want to ruin your holiday but just avout everything that we can find wrong with an oil sample, we found wrong in this one. All wear was found at abnormal level. The cause could be coolant contamination of the oil, or if this engine was just repaired for a coolant contamination problem, the silicon could be abrasive dirt left in the block by the mechanic and it could be the cause. Manganese is from Canadian gas. If the engine can be saved you will need multiple, short run oil changes to flush it out. Pressure check the cooling system.

 

[Robbie Alexander]

Tin at 35? Whew! that's high!

21 Chromium
52 Copper
Not that bad considering the other numbers.

Do what they say and run several (several) very very very short OCI's.

 

[Ken4]

quote:

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Originally posted by ExDelayed:

[*]235 Flashpoint

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Wow, look at that flashpoint. Im surprised the oil didnt ignite!

 

[Steve S]

This is what to do ,First change the oil and filter after 2 or 3,000 miles resample,with the fresh oil does it smoke? how does it run? do a compression test. Is the truck an every day driver or a spare vehicle?

 

[ExDelayed]

quote:

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Originally posted by Steve S:
This is what to do ,First change the oil and filter after 2 or 3,000 miles resample,with the fresh oil does it smoke? how does it run? do a compression test. Is the truck an every day driver or a spare vehicle?

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It doesnt smoke at all. Its very cold blooded but once it gets warm it drives good. Ill get a compression test as soon as I bring it home (later this week). This is just a spare. I wanted something that was RWD that I could play around with.

quote:

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Originally posted by Chris142:
I'd guess that the previous owner overheated it. Blew the headgaskets or cracked the heads, dumping coolant into the oil then drove it to the repair shop.

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I could see that happening. I have already replaced the valve cover gasketsm (oil leaks) but it was done after the test. The passenger side had never been touched, the drivers side had a lot of blue RTV silicone on the gasket. I didnt think to check to see if there were marks on the head bolts.

 

[Chris142]

I'd guess that the previous owner overheated it. Blew the headgaskets or cracked the heads, dumping coolant into the oil then drove it to the repair shop.

At the repair shop the mechanic used abrasive discs to clean the gasket surfaces then you bought the truck.

I'd change the oil and filter, run it for 1000 miles then change it again.

After 3-4K send in another sample.

Don't worry too much. These old engines can take lots of abuse and it still may have lots of life in it.

 

[TR3-2001SE]

This looks like the previous owner never changed the oil. I have known or know people who do this.
Hope it can be salvaged.

 

[XS650]

quote:

---

Originally posted by ExDelayed:
It doesnt smoke at all. Its very cold blooded but once it gets warm it drives good. Ill get a compression test as soon as I bring it home (later this week). This is just a spare. I wanted something that was RWD that I could play around with.

---

If it doesn't smoke, has decent compression and isn't making any death rattles, just change the oil and drive the sucker.

Maybe first change after 1,000 miles with some highway driving at full operating temperature, then go on a 3,000 mile change schedule. I don't see any sense in using a premium oil. But with the amount of crud that may be coming loose with fresh oil and highway driving, go for a filter with a lot of square inches of filter media.

I'm sure you will be advised to flush the engine. My personal prejudice is that sludge that is firmly in place in an engine and not doing any harm is best off staying in place where it will do no harm instead of being circulated through bearings because of some miracle flush.

 

[Ken2]

ExDelayed

I'd put in a new thermostat so it warms up OK, and buy a bottle or two of Schaeffer's Neutra from Tim Mills. That will safely clean the engine. Then, as said, clean and renew the other fluids and just drive it. If it's an automatic, use a bottle if Neutra in the transmission for 1000 miles, then do some ATF changes. Don't neglect changing the coolant, brake fluid or gear oils...this is for reliability.


Ken

 

[bretfraz]

If there is ever a test case for trying Auto-RX to see what kind of improvements can be obtained, this is it.

I agree with those who suggest to change the oil ASAP and run it for 1000 miles or so. After the next OCI, try Auto-RX and see what it can do.

Obviously fix the oil leaks and do the compression check, if only for establishing a baseline. And keep us posted. These "Back From The Brink" stories are always the most compelling for me.

 

[Steve S]

After reading all of the above they all are on the same train of thought. WE ARE SO GOOD!!!

 

[TheTanSedan]

With so few miles (assuming oem or even a replacement engine) this vehicle has likely sat for one or more very long period of time.

Run some diesel-spec oil, get it out on the highway after a major tune-up; put some real highway miles on it (say, within a 50-mile radius of the house). Repair components as necessary.

Here are a couple of tech links, that, while they deal with the B/RB Chrysler (361, 383, 413, 440), will nonetheless help with the scope of a major tune-up. Hoses, belts, carb; consider that everything ought to be replaced or rebuilt. As emissions compliance should be moot, consider having the distributor re-timed for more pep, economy and longevity. The carb may also need to be rejetted. (Retain any EGR equipment).

http://pub54.ezboard.com/fmotorcitymoparpagesfrm38.showMessage?topicID=173.topic

http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/312/index.htm

If it has "Lean Burn" ignition, 86 it:

http://www.sixpackcuda.us/electronic.html

I think the analysis numbers are essentially meaningless until the vehicle is truly back "in service"; any vehicle sitting a long time has dried out seals, corrosive build-ups, etc.

Go system-by-system, and replace all that is questionable. The motor will respond with better numbers once its op-temp parameters can be re-set by renovation and a few thousand miles of driving on an optimized carburetor and ignition.

Use FUEL POWER & LUBE CONTROL before and after an AUTO-RX cleaning.

I have a 1971 Chyrsler 383, and these products work extremely well. The FUEL POWER will more than pay for itself by keeping the combustion chambers cleaned out. I would do the high-mileage ARX routine.

1] Diesel/Gas-spec oil, 5W or 15W-40; (cheap oil filter). LUBE CONTROL at 6 ozs initial and 3 ozs at 1k; 2 ozs FP per 5-gals/gas initial; 1 oz per 5 thereon. 500 miles total.

2] (same); 2000 miles.

3] ARX with diesel oil/high-mileage scenario (per website instructions); (with FP).

4] Redline 10W-40 for 5k (and best-quality, lowest restriction oil filter).

Although this entails quite a few miles for a non daily-driver, a year or two as a diligent process will, IMO, be well worth it as other repairs proceed and problems are corrected.

[ December 30, 2003, 01:41 AM: Message edited by: TheTanSedan ]

 

[MillerMan]

one thing about the old 318/360 engine, the exhuast passage thru the intake gets coked/plugged up, also make sure that the mainfold heat riser is working, it is a weighted thermo spring on one of the exhuast mainfolds, don't force it, lube it first if stuck with pentating spray(when cold). next make sure the hot air duct that goes to the air filter house is all there and working all of the above causes them to run bad when cold at start up and untill the motor is almost full warm.

 

[DaveJ]

I agree with the above recomendtions. Carquest carrys a Ford truck filter that is the same thread as the Mopars but is a 2 quart filter part # 85773. Do two 2000 mile oil changes with Delo 400 15W40 and these filters then a K&N Gold filter # HP-3001 and a good Dino oil. I am a member at a question and answer board for MOPAR's. I cant list the site here but will E-mail it to anyone.They are very helpfull and have a truck section under Little Red Express. I have a 78 LRT with a tired 360. Also see http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html for oil filter tests on MOPAR's. DaveJ

[ January 16, 2004, 07:08 PM: Message edited by: DaveJ ]