Why conventional oil for break in?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted By: JT1
I'm sorry....what is a CamEro

crackmeup2.gif


I'm not sure, but a CamAro is an old Spanish word meaning "small, shrimp-like creature" (a mole cricket actually), an old French word meaning "friend", or an old term for "loose bowels".

From this I gather a Camaro is actually a friendly, yet small, shrimp-like creature with diarrhea.

How do you like your Camaro?

Camarodish.jpeg

20.gif
 
The redline info had a grain of truth in it. The line about '20 to 30 minutes on a dyno at low rpm'.

At least that is close.

Here's the bottom line. The rings are seated in literally seconds. The rotating assembly is either right or wrong, so no need there for any elaborate break in procedure.

Too many cars ship with syn now to keep pushing these old outdated ideas on people. Bunch of outdated [censored] as far as new cars go.

The only place for a careful break in is on a purpose built engine that was built professionally. And even then it's all over in a few minutes!
 
Originally Posted By: JT1
I'm sorry....what is a CamEro


A misspelled Camaro...

And your boss is falling for the koolaid that Mobil wants. He can run any syn that meets the GM spec (and most of them do).

His warranty will be fine.

Bill
 
I always run my NEW cars 3,000 miles on dino oil BEFORE switching to Mobil 1. I have never had any problems doing this, no cars use an excessive amount of oil.

NOW, my 1998 Corvette came with Mobil 1 from the factory. It only uses a maximum of 1/2 quart in 6,000 miles, if that much.

Although the Corvette engine (LS1) is essentially the same as the Camaro, the Corvette specifies synthetic oil because of potentially higher oil temperatures. GM was too cheap to put in an oil cooler when they could specify synthetic oil (slight mileage and horsepower increases don't hurt either as well as a "kick-back" from Mobil for using their oil.)
 
Last edited:
I think break in oils actually started back in the early 50's and were non-detergent oils with no anti wear additives at all. These oils would help old metal technology piston rings seat in quicker.
 
I always thought they used ND oils because the 'shavings' of new parts would drop to the bottom of the crankcase and not be carried as an abrasive in the oil.
21.gif
 
Metal shaving today will either drop out or go in to the filter. The detergents and dispersants only hold very fine particles in suspension. Any shaving large enough will drop.

The main reason the ND oils were so the rings could actually come in contact with the cylinders. Anti-wear additives in oil leave a protective coating on the cylinders.
 
Smooth bores and moly rings allow the use of synthetics for break in. Iron rings and synthetic oil will take a very long time to seat the rings if at all. After 3K or a few passes down the 1/8 mile synthetic is fine.
 
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Originally Posted By: JT1
I'm sorry....what is a CamEro


A misspelled Camaro...

And your boss is falling for the koolaid that Mobil wants. He can run any syn that meets the GM spec (and most of them do).

His warranty will be fine.

Bill


I suspected it wasn't true but wasn't 100% sure enough to kill one of his sacred cows. Besides, I've drank a lot of koolaid myself...some of my own making.
 
I started driving back in the early 60's and I've heard every theory known to man about how to break in a new motor. I have always done it the way my Dad taught me and that is to just drive it. Don't baby it, don't hot rod it, just drive it. I've done that on every car I've owned and have never had an oil consumption problem with any of them, from Ford to FIAT and everything in between.
 
Originally Posted By: Johnny
I have always done it the way my Dad taught me and that is to just drive it. Don't baby it, don't hot rod it, just drive it. I've done that on every car I've owned and have never had an oil consumption problem with any of them,



Very good advice! Don't baby it just drive it...
 
Originally Posted By: shpankey
I was always taught you need to do some revv braking to help seat them. ie downshift braking


Actually, I've heard a version of this fairly recently. It seems some early Muranos were having oil consumption problems. After investigating (so the story goes), they discovered the ones burning oil had been really 'babied' for the suggested 1200 mile break-in. The CVT really doesn't apply much engine braking, especially when driven conservatively. After reading this, I used my paddle shifters fairly regularly to 'downshift' for the balance of my '10 Maxima break-in. WAY too early to know if this has had any impact.

As above - I don't know ANY of this - but I read it on the interwebs, so it must be true!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top