I hesitate to comment about what oil is best for the Gamma II vs. the Theta II, etc. but I've gone with the idea that a "thin" 5w-30 like PP is likely the best option for my Gamma II commuter....as is mid-grade gas. I'm probably more interested in issues with the timing chain than I am engine failures or ultimate longevity with the Gamma if I'm not going to have it more than 125K miles or so.
I'm not convinced that using a 3.5 HTHS oil in the Theta II will stave off engine issues if they're somehow baked in, but I don't doubt that the 5w-20 vs. 5w-30 argument would probably apply differently to these two engines.
My understanding is that the Gamma II has been a relatively trouble-free engine since its 2012 introduction. The Accent ( Gamma II engine ) apparently has the lowest recall / take-back rate ( .10 per 100,000 vehicles ) which is the least of any vehicle sold in the U.S. as of last year and the 5 year period since its introduction....so whenever I see these Theta-based threads I don't really gloat, I just laugh if they lump all Hyundai engines together and it's suddenly 1987 again.
Yes I have been using Enerburn for the last year or so. At first I did see a major decrease in regen % at 500 mi., but now I'm not sure if it was attributed to the very cold weather we experienced last year at this time or the Enerburn. I am continuing to use it currently, but not so sure into the future once my current stock is exhausted.
Enerburn is why you have high iron. Pouring iron into your fuel, which makes it's way into the oil.
The box statement is written to make it look like it's 99% @ 5 microns. With an asterix after "at 5 microns" that leads to no additional info. Advertising hype in action.
You are correct. I was simply tying to convey that because the asterisk is undefined anywhere on the box, it's an unknown. I agree that they are using near-unethical methods for advertising, but I was just trying to stick to the full statements; because they don't define the asterisk on the box, it's "unknown", versus the defined statements on their website.
As I mentioned in the post above this ... this kind of deceptive practice would lead me away from PG on principle alone. The product may be OK, but it's nothing I cannot get from other brands that are more descriptive and less deceptive. I vote with my dollars; won't spend my money to reward this kind of malarkey.
Reviewing the responses, it seems there are, broadly, two issues here. They could go by other names, but IMO, Safety and Convenience are serviceable labels.
As for Safety, generally, the cartridges offer more paths to catastrophe. Our Avalon is a perfect example. You have to open and reclose the main filter compartment, be sure to properly place the finicky o-ring, making sure it stays in place during install, AND you're supposed to tighten to a specific torque. And then there's the absurd "pre-drain" feature, which is just another opening with yet another o-ring that has to be properly placed. Just another possible failure point, IMO. With the spin-on, the single seal installs "automatically" as you spin the filter on. And its "guts" are pre-installed in the right places. You can probably tell I don't like cartridges... 🙄😜
As for Convenience, everything I just said, vs "spin off then on..." Of course, a cartridge set up on TOP of the engine is probably as convenient as anything else.
My conclusion: assuming reasonable placement, the Spin-On is a clear winner.
BUT, Spin-Ons aren't perfect either, and here's my single datum point in that direction: As a kid, we were leaving on a road trip in Dad's '73 Dodge Dart. We literally left from the oil change shop. A mile or so later we got sudden smoke, stench and an OP warning light! The old Spin-On filter's seal had stuck to the flange, and the tech didn't notice! The resulting "double seal" didn't last long! They towed us back for free, fixed it, and all was good. 40+ years later, I still carefully check for that when I do a change. 😳 I hope nobody drove a motorcycle over that stretch of road for a while...😳😳
As a moderate with libertarian leanings I think it's interesting that credit reporting:
1. Started out with sites like free credit report.com that had all sorts of gotcha make money on the rubes hooks. 2. Government came back with annualcreditreport.com that cleaned up the abuses. 3. The market responded with creditkarma and FICO sites hooked to credit cards which are available constantly, not just once a year.
Well since 5w40 meets the industry standard in terms of Cold Crank to - 30c / -22F, what is it you are hoping that 0w40 will do? I run a 10w30 in my diesels and it does fine even at the sub zero range.
Depends on your definition of camping. To some, a nylon tent and a sleeping bag are the only sleeping requirements. If that suits you, a bus with the seats torn out would be much, much better than sleeping on the ground with the potential of water leaks or a stiff wind blowing down the tent in the middle of the night.
IF OTOH, you have dreams of a luxury motorhome on the cheap, forget it.
What do you mean by best oil? I have met many people with 400,000 miles on their Toyotas running what ever oil and filter is on sale or what ever oil and filters the Quickie lube place use. I will say the best oil is which ever oil you choose that is from a major blender and has the proper specs.
Been using Cremo for a long time, it's unbelievably slick so there is no drag. I have been using Trac ll's with the comfort strip since they came out, I guess I don't watch commercials and don't really understand why you guys are getting your undies in a bunch, you don't pay attention to oil marketing.
Not the biggest fan of the huge chrome grill but I think it is the cleanest looking truck of the bunch. The Rams have been for a while. The GM and Ford trucks have just been hideous in my opinion. Trucks are vehicles that usually hold their value longer and IMO the styling should be more conservative. The GMT400 trucks come to mind, as a good clean condition one still looks great today.
The ride before the last one I took, was the oil change ride-in-- that one was about two hours. I call the ride right after an oil change the oil change ride-in. Wash that engine down inside with clean hot oil for couple hrs before the real cold weather sets in !!!
I'll loan some to people who font have the funds to do these cosmetic improvements. It's like money;I got that and it's fun to pass a little bit on not to be a handout but a hand up. I will get what I need and pass a bit for free or for a break even price at most. We are here on this planet to be good neighbors to others and help thy fellow man. Does NOT apply to my stash of redline oil or any archoil products though.
I hope you didn't think I was criticizing your choice to buy all that stuff. It's still a great haul, and I give you points for passing your good fortune on to others. It was just an observation from someone who's been there. Even if you don't find any other amazing hauls for a while, you're in great shape for years
It's –21°F here as I post this, (9:45 a.m.) with the low tonight forecast to drop to –26°F — not windchill temperatures.
I still want to know how long a Tesla or any other electric would remain mobile after a full charge in those temperatures, even with the heater and everything else that can be turned off turned off, with the driver and passengers cocooned in hooded parkas, ear muffs, mitts and mukluks. Surprise, surprise: Internet searches turn up nothing but crickets.
Welcome to 1910.
I think the key would center around the fact that the car can't be charged in freezing weather but can be charged in a cold garage with results that are likely closer to charging in 10C temperatures. To the degree that it's preheated would probably dictate how much the range would deviate. The Range Mode function on the Tesla limits the heaters which would help but it doesn't take very long for things to get up to temperature so I'm not sure extreme cold weather specifically dictates the range as much as the environment where the car is stored/charged and the kind of trips involved.
I'm sure driving a short distance and having the car turned off for a few hours then rinse and repeat in those temps would impact it considerably more than driving an hour and restarting 20 minutes later would...or commuting 10 miles and being parked in a warm garage all day..but I'm not sure they could give you approximations of the differences between the two based on where it was charged, how long it's been driven, different pre-heating levels, etc. I would think that Tesla could give you a range but it would probably be broad and who knows how applicable to your circumstance.