What could cause this paint chips

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I noticed all these chips when rotating my tires today for the vibration concern I posted earlier. I hate to be "that guy"
But this was the side I had the rocker panel fixed and they sectioned it from right above this area to Midway under the car (between the doors)
The other side doesn't have these types of chips. This job was done 7 months ago. The car doesn't see any gravel roads only thing it really see is as Highway and it's Missouri so we do have the salt and Cinders on the road this time of year but still I wouldn't think it would look this bad and it's all the way down to the primer on every chip you see how would you guys handle this what would cause this what do you think?


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If it's the passenger side, that side always seems to get blasted more due to stuff running down the crown of the road.
 
Leading edges always take more abuse from road debris, pretty common imo. Looks like the door is too far inset to protect that leading edge, therefore paint chips .
 
That's probably true. But my wife has the same car with more miles than my entire car much less the paint job and it doesn't look like that.
 
Originally Posted By: Danno
Leading edges always take more abuse from road debris, pretty common imo. Looks like the door is too far inset to protect that leading edge, therefore paint chips .


Picture angle kind of makes it look like that but in person it's flush. I took the picture kind of cockeyed because it was raining really hard and I did want to kneel on the ground
 
Originally Posted By: ram_man
That's probably true. But my wife has the same car with more miles than my entire car much less the paint job and it doesn't look like that.


Could be, but if this is replacement paint on a section that couldn't be hot baked on, it may be softer.

My understanding, could be wrong, is that if a replacement panel (hood, trunk, hatch, door) gets painted, it's done then baked at high heat. Maybe not factory hot, but hot all the same.

If the body structure gets painted, to prevent damage to plastics, rubbers, seals, etc., its baked much lower.
 
If I took it to them what should I reasonably expect them to do? I dont want to be out of line but I also want the paint to be right as well.
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: ram_man
That's probably true. But my wife has the same car with more miles than my entire car much less the paint job and it doesn't look like that.


Could be, but if this is replacement paint on a section that couldn't be hot baked on, it may be softer.

My understanding, could be wrong, is that if a replacement panel (hood, trunk, hatch, door) gets painted, it's done then baked at high heat. Maybe not factory hot, but hot all the same.

If the body structure gets painted, to prevent damage to plastics, rubbers, seals, etc., its baked much lower.


Also depends on the shop. Some don't have a bake booth at all. That paint chips REALLY easily, I know from experience. The difference between a properly baked paint job that's designed to mirror OEM hardness and one that isn't is significant.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: ram_man
That's probably true. But my wife has the same car with more miles than my entire car much less the paint job and it doesn't look like that.


Could be, but if this is replacement paint on a section that couldn't be hot baked on, it may be softer.

My understanding, could be wrong, is that if a replacement panel (hood, trunk, hatch, door) gets painted, it's done then baked at high heat. Maybe not factory hot, but hot all the same.

If the body structure gets painted, to prevent damage to plastics, rubbers, seals, etc., its baked much lower.


Also depends on the shop. Some don't have a bake booth at all. That paint chips REALLY easily, I know from experience. The difference between a properly baked paint job that's designed to mirror OEM hardness and one that isn't is significant.


Would you expect this though so bad so soon? Would you say anything ?
 
The shop should have a warranty, top tier shops have life time warranties.

And the whole repair/repaint vs. OEM paint, repaint will Never be as durable as OEM, due to the bake process. 180 degree's OEM, vs. 140 degree's if a repair facility even bakes it at all. Rocker panel= No bake!

Also, the problem could easily be a bad prep, paint process. I can't tell from here. Take it back to the shop, and try to be professional about it, hopefully they will be also.
 
Originally Posted By: ram_man
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: ram_man
That's probably true. But my wife has the same car with more miles than my entire car much less the paint job and it doesn't look like that.


Could be, but if this is replacement paint on a section that couldn't be hot baked on, it may be softer.

My understanding, could be wrong, is that if a replacement panel (hood, trunk, hatch, door) gets painted, it's done then baked at high heat. Maybe not factory hot, but hot all the same.

If the body structure gets painted, to prevent damage to plastics, rubbers, seals, etc., its baked much lower.


Also depends on the shop. Some don't have a bake booth at all. That paint chips REALLY easily, I know from experience. The difference between a properly baked paint job that's designed to mirror OEM hardness and one that isn't is significant.


Would you expect this though so bad so soon? Would you say anything ?


I would expect it on soft paint if you are regularly seeing small road debris like tiny stones getting kicked up that wouldn't necessarily chip OEM paint.

Maybe talk to the shop, ask them if they use a bake booth? And ask them about the chips?
 
Plastic panels painted without a "plastic bonding" primer perhaps. Or paint without a flexible additive.
 
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I had a car with paint chips that had been repaired by a large shop. They wouldn’t cover it, their warranty only covers peeling paint, not rock chips.
 
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
I had a car with paint chips that had been repaired by a large shop. They wouldn’t cover it, their warranty only covers peeling paint, not rock chips.


This is kind of what I'm afraid of and I understand that rock chips happen but that seems like an awful lot in a short amount of time especially when the other side doesn't exhibit the same look at all my concern isn't really the chips but it's how bad will it get in years not months
 
Ram_man, I've got a similar situation on the leading edge of the pass side slider door on our minivan. I had some body work done on the rocker panel 6 months ago and they blended the paint part way up the door. This part of the door sticks out slightly and must be catching the road grime blast.

I took it back to the body shop to see if they would fix it. They'll fix it, but not for free. It's not technically part of their repair. They told me to touch it up with dealer touch up paint and gave me a piece of 3M clear body protector tape to make covers for these areas. They claim this issue is super common.
 
Originally Posted By: KneeGrinder

And the whole repair/repaint vs. OEM paint, repaint will Never be as durable as OEM, due to the bake process. 180 degree's OEM, vs. 140 degree's if a repair facility even bakes it at all. Rocker panel= No bake!

Also, the problem could easily be a bad prep, paint process. I can't tell from here. Take it back to the shop, and try to be professional about it, hopefully they will be also.


Probably bad prep or too much hardener in the clear, the paint is not too soft its too hard IMO, soft paint wouldn't chip as easily.
OEM paint is not the best these days, its thin, relies on a properly applied e-coat for adherence and many are now 1K or WB clears.
You see the issues with some paints peeling, clears decaying, etc. High quality after market paint properly applied can be far superior to OE.

Baking OE is basically only done today for speed, the temps you give are C not F and most OE baking is less than 80c today the reason is handling time at the factory not durability except on 1K clear systems still common on some Asian cars.
These can be repainted with 2K and no bake and achieve the same or superior result.

There are 3 basic types of paint and different drying processes, first is the old enamel which dried through solvent evaporation and curing in the case of acrylic enamel a hardener is used, baking this really made it more durable.

Second is through almost pure solvent evaporation as in lacquer, acrylic lacquer did cure to some extent baking non acrylic didn't add much durability.

Then there is modern 2K which cures through a chemical reaction process, the base coat is usually solvent or water based while the clear many times uses no solvents only a Catalyst. These can be baked for faster handling times but it is not required for full strength and durability to be achieved which usually occurs within 24 hrs.
Think of 2K like an epoxy, you let it cure at ambient temp and it may take 24 hrs to through harden, if you shorten the time by warming it the end result is the same only you can use it sooner.

I agree the OP should take it back, let them repair it and apply some protective film over it after a week or so.
This pdf has some good info on OE paint.
 
Trav,
I have been in some manufacturing plants in the 90's that used the same exact paint material that I used in my shop, PPG DBC with a DCU clearcoat, and at that time their bake temp was 180 Fahrenheit. The OEM paint was much harder, much more durable, scratch and chip resistant. I'm not debating the hard/soft paint is the reason the paint is coming off. It has no bearing on the matter. If it was bonded well to the surface it would not be chipping off so easily. It is either an "overlap" of a blend, or just a bad prep paint process. An overlap, if it is just that, would have only been sanded with say 1200/1500 grit and there for, would not be bonded very well and be very prone to chipping. At this point, we are just internet speculators...lol, Cheers


P.S. Here in US we have waterborne basecoats and still have very good acrylic urethane clearcoats, and only the big major cities with smog problems have to used very expensive waterborne basecoats.
 
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