Infrequently run engines more likely to wear?

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Say you have two identical engines in two identical cars. Car A is used every day of the week, car B is used once a week. Let's say the oil is a 0W-20 and the climate is normal (winters are cold, summers are hot but nothing extreme either way).

What's the general consensus on wear? Would the engine on car B wear more than car A because there is less oil film on the parts after sitting one week since the last run? Or is the surface tension between the close parts enough to keep an oil film there indefinitely? Surely some parts will lose oil film right? Like maybe parts of the timing chain?

Then again maybe this behavior (if it exists at all) occurs within a span of time short enough (over night for example), such that starting the engine every day is actually worse than starting it once a week?
 
I have a 1997 GMC sierra that only sees between 800 to 1200 miles per year. It sits for months at a time. When I do use it I heat it up fully and drive it long distances and then it gets parked in the garage again till next time. I get my oil analyzed and it always shows pretty low wear in single digits across the board for the most part.
 
It depends what type of engine you have. Some older ones have hydraulic lifters like my old Mercedes M103. I notice that if I dont drive it for 6 months then all the oils drain out of it and it is very noisy on start up with clacking. Was rebuilding head gasket.

I let it idle for 30 mins which helps draw oil back in to quiet it down before I drive it again. Its probably best to crank engine once a week to keep the parts coated in oil so they dont rust.
 
Sorry should have mentioned that, let's say it's not hydraulic lifters and it's just the normal solid ones you have to adjust.

Engines can rust inside? Seriously?!? I always thought even though the oil returns to the sump, there's at least a microscopic film left behind (not enough to protect against wear). That's worrying.

So if I were to pour engine oil on metal and leave it vertical, the oil will be completely dry after a while? I'm going to try that as an experiment, didn't know that.
 
My '73 Chevy is rarely driven. It has a carburetor. I squirt MMO down the carburetor after a fully warmed run. It may sit a year in an enclosed warm garage. Smokes at startup due to the MMO. The fuel tank is drained. Fresh fuel is added prior to a run.
 
Originally Posted By: 190E26FTW
Its probably best to crank engine once a week to keep the parts coated in oil so they dont rust.


They DO NOT.

I deal with a lot of used engines from wrecking yards. If the rain can't get in it, the engine internals will stay that way forever without "rusting inside".

I have pulled engines out of cars that have have not run and sat in a cow pasture for 50+ YEARS! Including old cars from the 1920's and 30's.... If you DON'T let water in, they will NOT rust (from just sitting).
 
After sitting, I'd say letting it warm up fully would offset any damage. If you ain't running it, you ain't wearing it. Boat engines sit for months on end at times and never seen to have a problem is stored and started correctly.
 
I asked a similar question about my motorhome diesel (on this forum). I was worried about the same thing. The oil forms a Tribo-layer film on the metal surfaces throughout the OCI...so sitting for months at a time shouldn't cause anymore wear at start up. My regimen is once or twice a month I run it to full temp. Someone posted a chart that showed most wear might occur somewhere between cold and full temp. So logically, the less startups should result in less wear over an OCI. Correctly me if I am wrong, but that is my impression from the titbits I have gathered.
 
Vehicle with less hot cold cycles would fair better. the difference in oil protection between 1 day and a week is minimal. Sure oil drains to the sump, but you either have oil pressure or you don't. but think of the numbers, if the car started daily accumulates say 5 seconds of startup time with no oil pressure, will the car started once a week take 5 seconds to get oil pressure? Doubtful.

Also cold starts are hard on engines because of excessive fuel. Running rich coupled with cold oil (additives haven't activated yet) makes cold starts an engine's worst enemy. There's a reason police cars and taxi's can last so many miles without much engine wear: the engine doesn't cool down much!

http://papers.sae.org/600190/
 
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All good points!

Quote:
Also cold starts are hard on engines because of excessive fuel.

And that's purely for emissions? To warm up the cat faster? At what point does it stop being rich? I'm assuming the temperature just has to be enough for the system to go into closed loop and not full operating temperature?
 
Easier to start a rich mixture, especially in the cold. Rich mixture also helps warm up the car faster, which again shows why a warm engine is a happy engine.
 
Originally Posted By: NoNameJoe
All good points!

Quote:
Also cold starts are hard on engines because of excessive fuel.

And that's purely for emissions? To warm up the cat faster? At what point does it stop being rich? I'm assuming the temperature just has to be enough for the system to go into closed loop and not full operating temperature?


Have you ever had a carbureted vehicle?

Generally, if the mixture is set correctly a car with a carb will not start easily when cold unless it is "choked." Basically, when you choke a carb what you're doing is increasing the vacuum in the throat which leads to a richer mixture and-as said-is easier to ignite. Ambient temperatures actually don't make a huge difference here-you'll often need to choke a cold car when it's 100º outside, although it certainly will be easier to start than when it's 0ºF. BTW, the carbed car I have now doesn't have a true choke, but does have a mechanism to enrich the mixture in the carburetors.

In any case, one of the principle problems-regardless of the fuel delivery mechanism-is that cold gasoline doesn't vaporize as easily as warm gasoline. Remember that only gasoline vapors burn, so by dumping more in(a richer mixture) you can actually get a mixture that burns.

A rich mixture is actually bad both for emissions reasons and for engine health. Rich mixtures dump out VOCs, CO, and can actually cook a catalytic converter(not generally a problem with fuel injection). A rich mixture also increases fuel dilution of the oil. The ECM will lean out the mixture as quickly as it possibly can in a fuel injected car for this very reason, although it will only do so in such a way as the engine will support it.

BTW, by the 1960s most American cars had automatic chokes, and I think for m/y 1975 it became a requirement for all US market cars for emissions reasons(prevent people from inadvertently choking it too long or forgetting to turn it off). My MG has a manual choke-I start the car fully choked(or with the fuel enrichment circuit fully engaged) and then once it starts I back off the choke as much as will support the car continuing to run. If I drive, the car reaches operating temperature in about 3 minutes or less, and as it warms up I back off the choke more and more. With an automatic choke, you typically push the pedal all the way to the floor to "set" it(on many carb designs, that also activates the accelerator pump to squirt gasoline into the intake and "prime" the engine). As the engine warms up, the carb either uses an electric heater or monitors the water temperature to take the choke off.

I know carbs are ancient tech in the automotive world now, but still the basic operating principles of a gasoline IC engine are the same regardless of the way fuel is delivered.
 
If car B warms up fully and gets a good run in it's weekly drive, then there should be no difference in lifespan, mile for mile.

If Car B is a short tripper and gets moved a lot without warming up, then I'd worry about acidic condensation buildup inside of the engine. Chemical wear is quite slow, but sure!
 
Originally Posted By: bunnspecial
Originally Posted By: NoNameJoe
All good points!

Quote:
Also cold starts are hard on engines because of excessive fuel.

And that's purely for emissions? To warm up the cat faster? At what point does it stop being rich? I'm assuming the temperature just has to be enough for the system to go into closed loop and not full operating temperature?


Have you ever had a carbureted vehicle?

Generally, if the mixture is set correctly a car with a carb will not start easily when cold unless it is "choked." Basically, when you choke a carb what you're doing is increasing the vacuum in the throat which leads to a richer mixture and-as said-is easier to ignite. Ambient temperatures actually don't make a huge difference here-you'll often need to choke a cold car when it's 100º outside, although it certainly will be easier to start than when it's 0ºF. BTW, the carbed car I have now doesn't have a true choke, but does have a mechanism to enrich the mixture in the carburetors.

In any case, one of the principle problems-regardless of the fuel delivery mechanism-is that cold gasoline doesn't vaporize as easily as warm gasoline. Remember that only gasoline vapors burn, so by dumping more in(a richer mixture) you can actually get a mixture that burns.

A rich mixture is actually bad both for emissions reasons and for engine health. Rich mixtures dump out VOCs, CO, and can actually cook a catalytic converter(not generally a problem with fuel injection). A rich mixture also increases fuel dilution of the oil. The ECM will lean out the mixture as quickly as it possibly can in a fuel injected car for this very reason, although it will only do so in such a way as the engine will support it.

BTW, by the 1960s most American cars had automatic chokes, and I think for m/y 1975 it became a requirement for all US market cars for emissions reasons(prevent people from inadvertently choking it too long or forgetting to turn it off). My MG has a manual choke-I start the car fully choked(or with the fuel enrichment circuit fully engaged) and then once it starts I back off the choke as much as will support the car continuing to run. If I drive, the car reaches operating temperature in about 3 minutes or less, and as it warms up I back off the choke more and more. With an automatic choke, you typically push the pedal all the way to the floor to "set" it(on many carb designs, that also activates the accelerator pump to squirt gasoline into the intake and "prime" the engine). As the engine warms up, the carb either uses an electric heater or monitors the water temperature to take the choke off.

I know carbs are ancient tech in the automotive world now, but still the basic operating principles of a gasoline IC engine are the same regardless of the way fuel is delivered.


Interesting! Nope never had a carbureted vehicle. Learn something new here all the time.

Quote:
If car B warms up fully and gets a good run in it's weekly drive, then there should be no difference in lifespan, mile for mile.

Yup, at least a nice long drive is definitely reasonable once a week.
 
My 1976 Honda Accord - first year and one of the first 1000 made - had a manual choke.

I still have the window sticker $3995

68 hp 5 speed stick - but it would scoot.

met CA emissions without a cat can.
 
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Cars that are frequently used are more reliable than cars that are rarely used, cars that just sit break down more from my experience and what mechanics that i know have told me.

However, what is better, frequent short trips where the engine does not warm up, or less frequent use but long highway trips where the engine warms up, the latter is undisputably better.


Eric the car guy has a great video on the subject on YT.
 
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