2015 Mazda3 2.5L Amsoil SS 0W-20 @ 6589, 22800 mi.

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This is my first post; I've lurked and learned for a long time.

2015 Mazda3 with the SkyActiv 2.5L engine. First owner. I ran factory fill for 1000 miles, then Amsoil Signature Series 0W20 with the OEM filter, as there wasn't consensus that the Amsoil (or any aftermarket) filters had the correct bypass spring pressure for that motor. I was a little nervous about the first oil analysis to be honest, as I had ridden with the dealer when shopping for the car, and he drove it hard right after startup - with ~200 miles on it, so I assumed it had a lot of similar drives before I bought it. The comments on the first analysis were that it was fine, other than somewhat elevated copper and silicon, which they suspected was due to break-in residuals. 2nd analysis comments agreed that had been the case, with the only issue this time being somewhat low flashpoint; they mentioned the engine not being warmed up enough, which was true - I drove it up the street for a few miles, but the oil temp when I drained it was probably 100-120 F.

Didn't do an analysis at the second fill as I was moving and just needed new oil. Decided after this 3rd analysis that I'll probably only do it every now and then until I get to the end of the warranty period, at which point I'll start doing TBN and stretching the OCIs. For now I'm trying to keep it close to 7500 miles, per Mazda's spec. I might do one next time to see if it's holding up for the short drives we're doing here.

Code:


OIL AMS SS 0W20 -

MILES IN USE 5216 7800

MILES 6589 22800

SAMPLE TAKEN 8/24/15 12/4/16



ALUMINUM 3 4

CHROMIUM 0 0

IRON 16 11

COPPER 12 4

LEAD 0 0

TIN 1 0

MOLYBDENUM 248 136

NICKEL 0 1

MANGANESE 1 0

SILVER 0 0

TITANIUM 0 0

POTASSIUM 0 2

BORON 149 61

SILICON 20 9

SODIUM 6 8

CALCIUM 3664 3318

MAGNESIUM 16 10

PHOSPHORUS 795 642

ZINC 916 708

BARIUM 2 0



SUS VIS 210ºF 56.6 52.1

cSt @ 212ºF 9.25 7.91

FLASHPOINT ºF 390 370

FUEL %
WATER % 0.0 0.0

INSOLUBLE % TBN 0.3
 
Last edited:
The 11 ppm was the last sample, at 22800 miles. The 16 ppm was from the first sample.

I did not get a TBN sample. The report read TR for that entry; typed that in wrong too. I was trying to get the columns to line up and it was a pain, sorry.
 
Stephan_G,
welcome2.gif
to BITOG, glad you're here.

I'm an Amsoil fan also so
thumbsup2.gif
on your oil choice. Looks good. I couldn't tell the TBN either, what was the actual number after the most recent run?

I'm considering a Mazda as next vehicle, how has it been so far?

Originally Posted By: Brybo86
11 ppm iron over 22800 miles
or 11pm iron over 6589 miles?


First Iron was 16ppm in 5216 miles.

Second Iron was 11ppm in 7800 miles - it's coming down nicely.
 
Originally Posted By: Kuato
I'm an Amsoil fan also so
thumbsup2.gif
on your oil choice.


I've been a fan of it since forever - my dad got it for the first time in the early 90s for a '65 VW Beetle, and said it brought engine temps down so much, you could touch the block after a drive (air-cooled). Don't know how much exaggeration has crept into that story by now, but they make great stuff. The only thing I've gone away from with it is a '97 Jeep Grand Cherokee I just picked up; it has Rotella T6 after doing a lot of reading here. Looking forward to see how that is, since the motor has over 200K on it.

Originally Posted By: Kuato
I couldn't tell the TBN either, what was the actual number after the most recent run?


Didn't do TBN, mis-typed. They reported TR for insolubles on the first sample - what does that mean?

Originally Posted By: Kuato
I'm considering a Mazda as next vehicle, how has it been so far?


Amazing! It's my wife's car, but I drive it anytime we go anywhere. She had a '12 Mazda3 with the 2.3L before, and while that was good, the extra power from the 2.5 is really noticeable when you need it, but it will still get mid-high 30 MPG on the interstate. Both have been hatchbacks, so there's plenty of space. Handling is sharp, power is good, the UI for the stereo/nav unit is miles better than anyone else's out... I love Mazda. My in-laws bought a '16 CX-5 based on how much we liked the 3. I've driven that too, and it's like a slightly bigger 3. Drives like a car, but has a little more clearance and interior space. I'd love to get one of the new CX-9s if we have more kids.
 
Originally Posted By: Stephan_G
Originally Posted By: Kuato
I'm an Amsoil fan also so
thumbsup2.gif
on your oil choice.


I've been a fan of it since forever - my dad got it for the first time in the early 90s for a '65 VW Beetle, and said it brought engine temps down so much, you could touch the block after a drive (air-cooled). Don't know how much exaggeration has crept into that story by now, but they make great stuff. The only thing I've gone away from with it is a '97 Jeep Grand Cherokee I just picked up; it has Rotella T6 after doing a lot of reading here. Looking forward to see how that is, since the motor has over 200K on it.


Is yours the 4.0? I have owned several and all had very low wear metals on Amsoil 5w30 and I took one as high as 12k on a change (90% highway). Rotella's a good choice.



Originally Posted By: Stephan_G

Originally Posted By: Kuato
I couldn't tell the TBN either, what was the actual number after the most recent run?


Didn't do TBN, mis-typed. They reported TR for insolubles on the first sample - what does that mean?


TRace. Could have been any number of things just keep an eye on it next time.



Originally Posted By: Stephan_G

Originally Posted By: Kuato
I'm considering a Mazda as next vehicle, how has it been so far?


Amazing! It's my wife's car, but I drive it anytime we go anywhere. She had a '12 Mazda3 with the 2.3L before, and while that was good, the extra power from the 2.5 is really noticeable when you need it, but it will still get mid-high 30 MPG on the interstate. Both have been hatchbacks, so there's plenty of space. Handling is sharp, power is good, the UI for the stereo/nav unit is miles better than anyone else's out... I love Mazda. My in-laws bought a '16 CX-5 based on how much we liked the 3. I've driven that too, and it's like a slightly bigger 3. Drives like a car, but has a little more clearance and interior space. I'd love to get one of the new CX-9s if we have more kids.



Thanks! I'm a bit too tall for the -3 and -6 (a shame my head is on that support bar that goes across, they're very nice) so am considering the CX-5 for myself (or the wife who is in the market also). Couple of test drives...they're much nicer than given credit for....
 
Yes, I have the 4.0. I have a thing for Inline-6 motors. Parents had an '89 F-150 with the 300-6 in it that I drove as a teenager. Sixes in trucks/truck-like-vehicles seem to be indestructible. Torquey beasts!

I was torn between the Rotella T6 and GC 0W-40. I might run that next time just to see how it does, although Amsoil is always a safe choice. About to change out the front and rear diff fluids with Severe Gear.
 
Originally Posted By: E150GT
I want to post my 2016 mazda analysis using the dealer oil from Idemitsu with moly but I am too dumb to figure it out.


There is a "how to" thread on here, have a look....
 
Originally Posted By: Stephan_G
Yes, I have the 4.0. I have a thing for Inline-6 motors. Parents had an '89 F-150 with the 300-6 in it that I drove as a teenager. Sixes in trucks/truck-like-vehicles seem to be indestructible. Torquey beasts!

I was torn between the Rotella T6 and GC 0W-40. I might run that next time just to see how it does, although Amsoil is always a safe choice. About to change out the front and rear diff fluids with Severe Gear.


T6 is an awesome choice I may run it next, I am using the GC 0w40 now. Cranks and starts great and seems to have been a good choice, although my weak lifter can be pretty noisy on it.
 
Originally Posted By: Kuato
Amaoil makes a 0w40....
smile.gif



Oh, I know. I found a thread here that was specifically comparing oils for the AMC 4.0, and it found that 40 weight wasn't any better than 30. However, it's what's available in T6, so it's what I ran. I figure since this Jeep has probably had all sorts of oils through its lifetime, I'm going to guinea pig it, and swap oils from one change to the next to see how they do. One of the main draws of HDEO for that motor is the increased ZDDP, since they're flat tappet.

Originally Posted By: KCJeep
T6 is an awesome choice I may run it next, I am using the GC 0w40 now. Cranks and starts great and seems to have been a good choice, although my weak lifter can be pretty noisy on it.


Are you going to post a UOA for the GC? Really interested in trying that out.
 
Driving it hard during the first few hundred miles is the best thing for an engine break-in wise. Ask most engine builders, they recommend driving this [censored] out of an engine for 500 miles or so, dump the oil, and consider it broken-in.
 
Originally Posted By: 1JZ_E46
Driving it hard during the first few hundred miles is the best thing for an engine break-in wise. Ask most engine builders, they recommend driving this [censored] out of an engine for 500 miles or so, dump the oil, and consider it broken-in.


Not to derail this thread off topic but although I agree about pushing an engine hard during break in is healthy, I've seen plenty of new engine builds where they would strap the car to a dyno and run the engine in slowly over like 30 mins to break it in before opening it up to measure power. They specifically mentioned taking it easy, some as much as 1,000 miles of "variable load driving".

Who buys a new car and then drives it like you stole it anyway? I mean, I do mine but I'm not the norm.


OP, My 2014 Mazda 3 with 2.0L has a menu in the infotainment system for maintenance and it allows me to choose a set interval based by 500 mile intervals of YOUR choice or a second option which Mazda says takes actual engine operating conditions into account and suggests an oil life based on that.

Even with my abusive driving, I'm usually at 60% oil life left after 4,000 miles mixed city driving with A LOT of spirited redline action.

Have you thought about using this option and let the car suggest when it's time to change the Lube based on YOUR driving style and conditions???
 
Regarding engine break-in, I like to follow the manufacturer recommendation, which is usually avoiding constant load, full throttle, and high RPM for 500-1000 miles.

Originally Posted By: Artem
Have you thought about using this option and let the car suggest when it's time to change the Lube based on YOUR driving style and conditions???


I have considered it, although I need to check to see if this TSB applies to me. Right now I'm trying to get an idea of baseline life; after the powertrain warranty is up, I'll be changing oil based on analysis.
 
Originally Posted By: Artem
Not to derail this thread off topic but although I agree about pushing an engine hard during break in is healthy, I've seen plenty of new engine builds where they would strap the car to a dyno and run the engine in slowly over like 30 mins to break it in before opening it up to measure power. They specifically mentioned taking it easy, some as much as 1,000 miles of "variable load driving".


Originally Posted By: Stephan_G
Regarding engine break-in, I like to follow the manufacturer recommendation, which is usually avoiding constant load, full throttle, and high RPM for 500-1000 miles.


From what I hear from engine builders (I know a few), the best sort of driving for engine break-in is to head to a twisty mountain road and get after it. Lot's of "variable load" and revs throughout the entire rev range. This type of variable load driving is probably what the OP's car had (short stints of high load, followed by low load). I don't think they took it to their nearest circle track and ran it flat out for hundreds of miles...
 
I went by what Mazda has written in the owner's manual. I figure that's the safest way to avoid any possible warranty claim issues, if that came up.

I do wonder if anyone has done any actual wear studies with new engines and various types of break-in procedures, though. Just like everything else in the automotive world, there are a lot of anecdotes, without much backing them up. I'm not saying you're wrong, I just would like to see a controller comparison.
 
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