If money wasn't a concern... Oil, Filter, OCI

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I'd run a Euro-spec oil, Fram Ultra/Donaldson Blue filters(unless OEM uses Mann or Mahle fleece filters - JDM "upgrade" if FU or Donaldson doesn't fit) and 10/15K OCIs.

I think an ACEA A3/B3-rated oil with higher HTHS and lower NOACK will help with turbos and some engines are just plain hard on oil - Toyotas for example. dexos2 if it had to go into a GM product.
 
Pretty much the same oils I run now.. whatever semi-syn or full-syn is either on sale, on clearance, or running at a good price.. I'll lock myself into a Fram Ultra as far as filters go.. No sense in saving a couple bucks when the FU is the best at any price.
 
If money was no concern, I'd be doing a lot of traveling. Amsoil or M1 AP for 20,000 OCIs with a Fram Ultra.
 
Royal Purple XPR 5w20/30, RP or Amsoil filter. 10,000 mile OCI. RP XPR oils have quadruple the amount of synerlec and their most stout oil!
 
Originally Posted By: StevieC
If money wasn't a concern what oil, filter, OCI would you run and why?


With money no issue for me, whatever the McLaren stealership slaps in there...
If someone offered to buy me whatever oil and filter I wanted for my current cars, I think I'd do pretty much what I do now, but always put M1 EP in and run a fram ultra for a two OCI total of 25k.
 
Originally Posted By: deven
Royal Purple XPR 5w20/30, RP or Amsoil filter. 10,000 mile OCI. RP XPR oils have quadruple the amount of synerlec and their most stout oil!
XPR is good stuff-but I wouldn't run it in anything with a catalytic converter, it's pretty high in sulfur (main ingredient in Synerlec).
 
If money was of no concern, I'd probably be driving something a lot different than what I currently am. Not knowing that vehicle's oil/filter requirements, I can't really answer what oil/filter/OCI I'd be running. I guess I'd be following the owner's manual and let someone else deal with maintenance, and I'd just focus on driving the snot out of it.
 
If money wasn't a concern...I would be using ester based oils...15-20kkm ocis...with Mann/Mahle oil filters
 
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Originally Posted By: StevieC
Do you have UOA's for the RP?

No I haven't done a UOA in a while. Just don't find it beneficial.
 
Originally Posted By: bullwinkle
Originally Posted By: deven
Royal Purple XPR 5w20/30, RP or Amsoil filter. 10,000 mile OCI. RP XPR oils have quadruple the amount of synerlec and their most stout oil!
XPR is good stuff-but I wouldn't run it in anything with a catalytic converter, it's pretty high in sulfur (main ingredient in Synerlec).


Only if the car is burning oil then it would be a concern to me.
 
I already use good oils and filters, I wouldn't change much. I buy all my oil on clearance, usually $1 per quart or less.

If I didn't have confidence in what I'm using, I wouldn't be using it.
 
No change. I never compromise on what I consider the best oil for my equipment. PUP for the MOPARs, BMW oil for the BMW, and Amsoil Small Engine Oil for the Generator. OEM filters. Vehicles get 1,000 mile initial change followed by 6 months or 5,000 mile max OCIs. Usually works out to about 3,000 miles or less. Gen gets annual or 12 hours of run time (exercise cycles) OCI unless it runs for a long period of time in an emergency (i.e., Irma).
 
If money was no concern, I'd change to a dry sump that could pre-oil the engine before it started. I'd also up the capacity to a nice even 10 quarts. After that change, I'm less picky. For oil, I'd run Rotella T6 5w40 or Mobil 1 Annual Protection. I'm torn for a filter, maybe a Wix XP and run 10,000(+) for an OCI, depending on the UOA.
 
Money isn't a concern and I'd do exactly what I'm doing now. That is:

The lowest cost oil that meets the manufacturers specs (BMW LL-01 for the BMW, SN rated 5W-20 oil for the Honda) changed once a year for the BMW and at 30% on the OLM for the Honda. I'd use the OEM oil filter for the BMW and a WIX oil filter for the Honda, both changed every other oil change.
 
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