I have been looking for a VOA's and UOA's for Comp Cams 10w30 oil, not their break in oil but the every day oils. I havn't had much luck. I am considering using this in my 1966 mustang that has a recent mild re-built ford 289 (stiffer than stock valve springs and a XE250h cam). I think I will be OK with any off the shelf oil but want to make sure I dont need the extra ZDDP of the more specialty oils. Thanks, My first post here be gentle.
Comp Cams 10w30 oil
- Thread starter Brak876
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Sorry, but I would not run Comp Cams oils ... I have seen too many SBC's loose cams/lifters with combinations involving Comp lubes. It's private labeled and we do not know who has the contract on given day ...
I have had very good luck with most HDEO's and modestly built engines. What lifters did you use? What are the spring pressures over the nose (valve fully open)?
800 PPM will suffice in any premium oil for OEM cams and springs. 1,000 ~ 1,200 PPM will work fine for modest street cams and springs less than 300 over the nose. Over 300 spring pressure, you should look at Brad Penn (Penn Grade One), Delo 400 15W-30 SD (severe duty), Valvoline VR-1 or equal. And I'd look at tossing in a 1/4 container of GM EOS on every oil change ...
The biggest thing is no, or minimum, idle time for the first 1,000 miles. Keep that motor spinning at 2,000 or better if you can. The cam and lifters (unless Crower Cam Saver Lifters, or Howard's Direct Lube lifters) need a lot of sling oil off the crank to keep them wet as the parts seat in.
Keep the motor spinning and run good oil and you'll be OK. After 1,000 miles, if it's going to die, it will be a slow death.
Cut your filter open at 250 and 500 miles and look. Grey'ish pasty looking film on filter media that reacts to a magnet means the cam/lifters are failing. Clean brown media is good. Run a magnetic drain plug. If no grey fuzz, you are good. You won't need to cut open the future filters
I have had very good luck with most HDEO's and modestly built engines. What lifters did you use? What are the spring pressures over the nose (valve fully open)?
800 PPM will suffice in any premium oil for OEM cams and springs. 1,000 ~ 1,200 PPM will work fine for modest street cams and springs less than 300 over the nose. Over 300 spring pressure, you should look at Brad Penn (Penn Grade One), Delo 400 15W-30 SD (severe duty), Valvoline VR-1 or equal. And I'd look at tossing in a 1/4 container of GM EOS on every oil change ...
The biggest thing is no, or minimum, idle time for the first 1,000 miles. Keep that motor spinning at 2,000 or better if you can. The cam and lifters (unless Crower Cam Saver Lifters, or Howard's Direct Lube lifters) need a lot of sling oil off the crank to keep them wet as the parts seat in.
Keep the motor spinning and run good oil and you'll be OK. After 1,000 miles, if it's going to die, it will be a slow death.
Cut your filter open at 250 and 500 miles and look. Grey'ish pasty looking film on filter media that reacts to a magnet means the cam/lifters are failing. Clean brown media is good. Run a magnetic drain plug. If no grey fuzz, you are good. You won't need to cut open the future filters
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